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stood for the whole evening in front of the house with a silent；
open…mouthed stare。
Early in the morning the same melancholy crowd appeared in the
dismal drizzle； which turned into a tremendous torrent； which has
lasted for sixteen hours。 Low hills； broad rice valleys in which
people are puddling the rice a second time to kill the weeds； bad
roads； pretty villages； much indigo； few passengers； were the
features of the day's journey。 At Morioka and several other
villages in this region I noticed that if you see one large； high；
well…built house； standing in enclosed grounds； with a look of
wealth about it； it is always that of the sake brewer。 A bush
denotes the manufacture as well as the sale of sake； and these are
of all sorts； from the mangy bit of fir which has seen long service
to the vigorous truss of pine constantly renewed。 It is curious
that this should formerly have been the sign of the sale of wine in
England。
The wind and rain were something fearful all that afternoon。 I
could not ride； so I tramped on foot for some miles under an avenue
of pines； through water a foot deep； and； with my paper waterproof
soaked through； reached Toyoka half drowned and very cold； to
shiver over a hibachi in a clean loft； hung with my dripping
clothes； which had to be put on wet the next day。 By 5 a。m。 all
Toyoka assembled； and while I took my breakfast I was not only the
〃cynosure〃 of the eyes of all the people outside； but of those of
about forty more who were standing in the doma； looking up the
ladder。 When asked to depart by the house…master； they said； 〃It's
neither fair nor neighbourly in you to keep this great sight to
yourself； seeing that our lives may pass without again looking on a
foreign woman；〃 so they were allowed to remain！ I。 L。 B。
LETTER XXVI
The Fatigues of TravellingTorrents and MudIto's SurlinessThe
Blind ShampooersA Supposed Monkey TheatreA Suspended FerryA
Difficult TransitPerils on the YonetsurugawaA Boatman Drowned
Nocturnal DisturbancesA Noisy YadoyaStorm…bound Travellers
Hai！ Hai！More Nocturnal Disturbances
ODATE； July 29。
I have been suffering so much from my spine that I have been unable
to travel more than seven or eight miles daily for several days；
and even that with great difficulty。 I try my own saddle； then a
pack…saddle； then walk through the mud； but I only get on because
getting on is a necessity； and as soon as I reach the night's
halting…place I am obliged to lie down at once。 Only strong people
should travel in northern Japan。 The inevitable fatigue is much
increased by the state of the weather； and doubtless my impressions
of the country are affected by it also； as a hamlet in a quagmire
in a gray mist or a soaking rain is a far less delectable object
than the same hamlet under bright sunshine。 There has not been
such a season for thirty years。 The rains have been tremendous。 I
have lived in soaked clothes； in spite of my rain…cloak； and have
slept on a soaked stretcher in spite of all waterproof wrappings
for several days； and still the weather shows no signs of
improvement； and the rivers are so high on the northern road that I
am storm…bound as well as pain…bound here。 Ito shows his sympathy
for me by intense surliness； though he did say very sensibly； 〃I'm
very sorry for you； but it's no use saying so over and over again；
as I can do nothing for you； you'd better send for the blind man！〃
In Japanese towns and villages you hear every evening a man （or
men） making a low peculiar whistle as he walks along； and in large
towns the noise is quite a nuisance。 It is made by blind men； but
a blind beggar is never seen throughout Japan； and the blind are an
independent； respected； and well…to…do class； carrying on the
occupations of shampooing； money…lending； and music。
We have had a very severe journey from Toyoka。 That day the rain
was ceaseless； and in the driving mists one could see little but
low hills looming on the horizon； pine barrens； scrub； and flooded
rice…fields； varied by villages standing along roads which were
quagmires a foot deep； and where the clothing was specially ragged
and dirty。 Hinokiyama； a village of samurai； on a beautiful slope；
was an exception； with its fine detached houses； pretty gardens；
deep…roofed gateways； grass and stone…faced terraces； and look of
refined； quiet comfort。 Everywhere there was a quantity of indigo；
as is necessary； for nearly all the clothing of the lower classes
is blue。 Near a large village we were riding on a causeway through
the rice…fields； Ito on the pack…horse in front； when we met a
number of children returning from school； who； on getting near us；
turned； ran away； and even jumped into the ditches； screaming as
they ran。 The mago ran after them； caught the hindmost boy； and
dragged him backthe boy scared and struggling； the man laughing。
The boy said that they thought that Ito was a monkey…player； i。e。
the keeper of a monkey theatre； I a big ape； and the poles of my
bed the scaffolding of the stage！
Splashing through mire and water we found that the people of Tubine
wished to detain us； saying that all the ferries were stopped in
consequence of the rise in the rivers； but I had been so often
misled by false reports that I took fresh horses and went on by a
track along a very pretty hillside； overlooking the Yonetsurugawa；
a large and swollen river； which nearer the sea had spread itself
over the whole country。 Torrents of rain were still falling； and
all out…of…doors industries were suspended。 Straw rain…cloaks
hanging to dry dripped under all the eaves； our paper cloaks were
sodden； our dripping horses steamed； and thus we slid down a steep
descent into the hamlet of Kiriishi； thirty…one houses clustered
under persimmon trees under a wooded hillside； all standing in a
quagmire； and so abject and filthy that one could not ask for five
minutes' shelter in any one of them。 Sure enough； on the bank of
the river； which was fully 400 yards wide； and swirling like a
mill…stream with a suppressed roar； there was an official order
prohibiting the crossing of man or beast； and before I had time to
think the mago had deposited the baggage on an islet in the mire
and was over the crest of the hill。 I wished that the Government
was a little less paternal。
Just in the nick of time we discerned a punt drifting down the
river on the opposite side； where it brought up； and landed a man；
and Ito and two others yelled； howled； and waved so lustily as to
attract its notice； and to my joy an answering yell came across the
roar and rush of the river。 The torrent was so strong that the
boatmen had to pole up on that side for half a mile； and in about
three…quarters of an hour they reached our side。 They were
returning to Kotsunagithe very place I wished to reachbut；
though only 2。5 miles off； the distance took nearly four hours of
the hardest work I ever saw done by men。 Every moment I expected
to see them rupture blood…vessels or tendons。 All their muscles
quivered。 It is a mighty river； and was from eight to twelve feet
deep； and whirling down in muddy eddies； and often with their
utmost efforts in poling； when it seemed as if poles or backs must
break； the boat hung trembling and stationary for three or four
minutes at a time。 After the slow and eventless tramp of the last
few days this was an exciting transit。 Higher up there was a
flooded wood； and； getting into this； the men aided themselves
considerably by hauling by the trees； but when we got out of this；
another river joined the Yonetsurugawa； which with added strength
rushed and roared more wildly。
I had long been watching a large house…boat far above us on the
other side； which was being poled by desperate efforts by ten men。
At that point she must have been half a mile off； when the stream
overpowered the crew and in no time she swung round and came
drifting wildly down and across the river； broadside on to us。 We
could not stir against the current； and had large trees on our
immediate left； and for a moment it was a question whether she
would not smash us to atoms。 Ito was livid with fear； his white；
appalled face struck me as ludicrous； for I had no other thought
than the imminent peril of the large boat with her freight of
helpless families； when； just as she was within two feet of us； she
struck a stem and glanced off。 Then her crew grappled a headless
trunk and got their hawser round it； and eight of them； one behind
the other； hung on to it； when it suddenly snapped； seven fell
backwards； and the forward one went overboard to be no more seen。
Some house that night was desolate。 Reeling downwards； the big
mast and spar of the ungainly craft caught in a tree； giving her
such a check that they were able to make her fast。 It was a
saddening incident。 I asked Ito what he felt when we seemed in
peril； and he replied； 〃I thought I'd been good to my mother； and
honest； and I hoped I should go to a good place。〃
The fashion of boats varies much on different rivers。 On this one
there are two sizes。 Ours was a small one； flat…bottomed； 25 feet
long by 2。5 broad； drawing 6 inches； very low in the wat