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of Ii Kamon no Kami； one of the great actors in recent historic
events； who was assassinated not far off； outside the Sakaruda gate
of the castle。 Besides these； barracks； parade…grounds； policemen；
kurumas； carts pulled and pushed by coolies； pack…horses in straw
sandals； and dwarfish； slatternly…looking soldiers in European
dress； made up the Tokiyo that I saw between Shinbashi and the
Legation。
H。B。M。's Legation has a good situation near the Foreign Office；
several of the Government departments； and the residences of the
ministers； which are chiefly of brick in the English suburban villa
style。 Within the compound； with a brick archway with the Royal
Arms upon it for an entrance； are the Minister's residence； the
Chancery； two houses for the two English Secretaries of Legation；
and quarters for the escort。
It is an English house and an English home； though； with the
exception of a venerable nurse； there are no English servants。 The
butler and footman are tall Chinamen； with long pig…tails； black
satin caps； and long blue robes； the cook is a Chinaman； and the
other servants are all Japanese； including one female servant； a
sweet； gentle； kindly girl about 4 feet 5 in height； the wife of
the head 〃housemaid。〃 None of the servants speak anything but the
most aggravating 〃pidgun〃 English； but their deficient speech is
more than made up for by the intelligence and service of the
orderly in waiting； who is rarely absent from the neighbourhood of
the hall door； and attends to the visitors' book and to all
messages and notes。 There are two real English children of six and
seven； with great capacities for such innocent enjoyments as can be
found within the limits of the nursery and garden。 The other
inmate of the house is a beautiful and attractive terrier called
〃Rags；〃 a Skye dog； who unbends 〃in the bosom of his family；〃 but
ordinarily is as imposing in his demeanour as if he； and not his
master； represented the dignity of the British Empire。
The Japanese Secretary of Legation is Mr。 Ernest Satow； whose
reputation for scholarship； especially in the department of
history； is said by the Japanese themselves to be the highest in
Japan ｛3｝an honourable distinction for an Englishman； and won by
the persevering industry of fifteen years。 The scholarship
connected with the British Civil Service is not； however；
monopolised by Mr。 Satow； for several gentlemen in the consular
service； who are passing through the various grades of student
interpreters； are distinguishing themselves not alone by their
facility in colloquial Japanese； but by their researches in various
departments of Japanese history； mythology； archaeology； and
literature。 Indeed it is to their labours； and to those of a few
other Englishmen and Germans； that the Japanese of the rising
generation will be indebted for keeping alive not only the
knowledge of their archaic literature； but even of the manners and
customs of the first half of this century。
I。 L。 B。
LETTER IV
〃John Chinaman〃Engaging a ServantFirst Impressions of ItoA
Solemn ContractThe Food Question。
H。B。M。's LEGATION； YEDO；
June 7。
I went to Yokohama for a week to visit Dr。 and Mrs。 Hepburn on the
Bluff。 Bishop and Mrs。 Burdon of Hong Kong were also guests； and
it was very pleasant。
One cannot be a day in Yokohama without seeing quite a different
class of orientals from the small； thinly…dressed； and usually
poor…looking Japanese。 Of the 2500 Chinamen who reside in Japan；
over 1100 are in Yokohama； and if they were suddenly removed；
business would come to an abrupt halt。 Here； as everywhere； the
Chinese immigrant is making himself indispensable。 He walks
through the streets with his swinging gait and air of complete
self…complacency； as though he belonged to the ruling race。 He is
tall and big； and his many garments； with a handsome brocaded robe
over all； his satin pantaloons； of which not much is seen； tight at
the ankles； and his high shoes； whose black satin tops are slightly
turned up at the toes； make him look even taller and bigger than he
is。 His head is mostly shaven； but the hair at the back is plaited
with a quantity of black purse twist into a queue which reaches to
his knees； above which； set well back； he wears a stiff； black
satin skull…cap； without which he is never seen。 His face is very
yellow； his long dark eyes and eyebrows slope upwards towards his
temples； he has not the vestige of a beard； and his skin is shiny。
He looks thoroughly 〃well…to…do。〃 He is not unpleasing…looking；
but you feel that as a Celestial he looks down upon you。 If you
ask a question in a merchant's office； or change your gold into
satsu； or take your railroad or steamer ticket； or get change in a
shop； the inevitable Chinaman appears。 In the street he swings
past you with a purpose in his face； as he flies past you in a
kuruma he is bent on business； he is sober and reliable； and is
content to 〃squeeze〃 his employer rather than to rob himhis one
aim in life is money。 For this he is industrious； faithful； self…
denying； and he has his reward。
Several of my kind new acquaintances interested themselves about
the （to me） vital matter of a servant interpreter； and many
Japanese came to 〃see after the place。〃 The speaking of
intelligible English is a sine qua non； and it was wonderful to
find the few words badly pronounced and worse put together； which
were regarded by the candidates as a sufficient qualification。 Can
you speak English？ 〃Yes。〃 What wages do you ask？ 〃Twelve dollars
a month。〃 This was always said glibly； and in each case sounded
hopeful。 Whom have you lived with？ A foreign name distorted out
of all recognition； as was natural； was then given。 Where have you
travelled？ This question usually had to be translated into
Japanese； and the usual answer was； 〃The Tokaido； the Nakasendo； to
Kiyoto； to Nikko；〃 naming the beaten tracks of countless tourists。
Do you know anything of Northern Japan and the Hokkaido？ 〃No；〃
with a blank wondering look。 At this stage in every case Dr。
Hepburn compassionately stepped in as interpreter； for their stock
of English was exhausted。 Three were regarded as promising。 One
was a sprightly youth who came in a well…made European suit of
light…coloured tweed； a laid…down collar； a tie with a diamond （？）
pin； and a white shirt； so stiffly starched； that he could hardly
bend low enough for a bow even of European profundity。 He wore a
gilt watch…chain with a locket； the corner of a very white cambric
pocket…handkerchief dangled from his breast pocket； and he held a
cane and a felt hat in his hand。 He was a Japanese dandy of the
first water。 I looked at him ruefully。 To me starched collars are
to be an unknown luxury for the next three months。 His fine
foreign clothes would enhance prices everywhere in the interior；
and besides that； I should feel a perpetual difficulty in asking
menial services from an exquisite。 I was therefore quite relieved
when his English broke down at the second question。
The second was a most respectable…looking man of thirty…five in a
good Japanese dress。 He was highly recommended； and his first
English words were promising； but he had been cook in the service
of a wealthy English official who travelled with a large retinue；
and sent servants on ahead to prepare the way。 He knew really only
a few words of English； and his horror at finding that there was
〃no master；〃 and that there would be no woman…servant； was so
great； that I hardly know whether he rejected me or I him。
The third； sent by Mr。 Wilkinson； wore a plain Japanese dress； and
had a frank； intelligent face。 Though Dr。 Hepburn spoke with him
in Japanese； he thought that he knew more English than the others；
and that what he knew would come out when he was less agitated。 He
evidently understood what I said； and； though I had a suspicion
that he would turn out to be the 〃master；〃 I thought him so
prepossessing that I nearly engaged him on the spot。 None of the
others merit any remark。
However； when I had nearly made up my mind in his favour； a
creature appeared without any recommendation at all； except that
one of Dr。 Hepburn's servants was acquainted with him。 He is only
eighteen； but this is equivalent to twenty…three or twenty…four
with us； and only 4 feet 10 inches in height； but； though bandy…
legged； is well proportioned and strong…looking。 He has a round
and singularly plain face； good teeth； much elongated eyes； and the
heavy droop of his eyelids almost caricatures the usual Japanese
peculiarity。 He is the most stupid…looking Japanese that I have
seen； but； from a rapid； furtive glance in his eyes now and then； I
think that the stolidity is partly assumed。 He said that he had
lived at the American Legation； that he had been a clerk on the
Osaka railroad； that he had travelled through northern Japan by the
eastern route； and in Yezo with Mr。 Maries； a botanical collector；
that he understood drying plants； that he could cook a little； that
he could write English； that he could walk twenty…five miles a day；
and that he thoroughly understood getting through the interior！
This would…be para