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unbeaten tracks in japan-第4章

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of Ii Kamon no Kami; one of the great actors in recent historic
events; who was assassinated not far off; outside the Sakaruda gate
of the castle。  Besides these; barracks; parade…grounds; policemen;
kurumas; carts pulled and pushed by coolies; pack…horses in straw
sandals; and dwarfish; slatternly…looking soldiers in European
dress; made up the Tokiyo that I saw between Shinbashi and the
Legation。

H。B。M。's Legation has a good situation near the Foreign Office;
several of the Government departments; and the residences of the
ministers; which are chiefly of brick in the English suburban villa
style。  Within the compound; with a brick archway with the Royal
Arms upon it for an entrance; are the Minister's residence; the
Chancery; two houses for the two English Secretaries of Legation;
and quarters for the escort。

It is an English house and an English home; though; with the
exception of a venerable nurse; there are no English servants。  The
butler and footman are tall Chinamen; with long pig…tails; black
satin caps; and long blue robes; the cook is a Chinaman; and the
other servants are all Japanese; including one female servant; a
sweet; gentle; kindly girl about 4 feet 5 in height; the wife of
the head 〃housemaid。〃  None of the servants speak anything but the
most aggravating 〃pidgun〃 English; but their deficient speech is
more than made up for by the intelligence and service of the
orderly in waiting; who is rarely absent from the neighbourhood of
the hall door; and attends to the visitors' book and to all
messages and notes。  There are two real English children of six and
seven; with great capacities for such innocent enjoyments as can be
found within the limits of the nursery and garden。  The other
inmate of the house is a beautiful and attractive terrier called
〃Rags;〃 a Skye dog; who unbends 〃in the bosom of his family;〃 but
ordinarily is as imposing in his demeanour as if he; and not his
master; represented the dignity of the British Empire。

The Japanese Secretary of Legation is Mr。 Ernest Satow; whose
reputation for scholarship; especially in the department of
history; is said by the Japanese themselves to be the highest in
Japan {3}an honourable distinction for an Englishman; and won by
the persevering industry of fifteen years。  The scholarship
connected with the British Civil Service is not; however;
monopolised by Mr。 Satow; for several gentlemen in the consular
service; who are passing through the various grades of student
interpreters; are distinguishing themselves not alone by their
facility in colloquial Japanese; but by their researches in various
departments of Japanese history; mythology; archaeology; and
literature。  Indeed it is to their labours; and to those of a few
other Englishmen and Germans; that the Japanese of the rising
generation will be indebted for keeping alive not only the
knowledge of their archaic literature; but even of the manners and
customs of the first half of this century。

I。 L。 B。



LETTER IV



〃John Chinaman〃Engaging a ServantFirst Impressions of ItoA
Solemn ContractThe Food Question。

H。B。M。's LEGATION; YEDO;
June 7。

I went to Yokohama for a week to visit Dr。 and Mrs。 Hepburn on the
Bluff。  Bishop and Mrs。 Burdon of Hong Kong were also guests; and
it was very pleasant。

One cannot be a day in Yokohama without seeing quite a different
class of orientals from the small; thinly…dressed; and usually
poor…looking Japanese。  Of the 2500 Chinamen who reside in Japan;
over 1100 are in Yokohama; and if they were suddenly removed;
business would come to an abrupt halt。  Here; as everywhere; the
Chinese immigrant is making himself indispensable。  He walks
through the streets with his swinging gait and air of complete
self…complacency; as though he belonged to the ruling race。  He is
tall and big; and his many garments; with a handsome brocaded robe
over all; his satin pantaloons; of which not much is seen; tight at
the ankles; and his high shoes; whose black satin tops are slightly
turned up at the toes; make him look even taller and bigger than he
is。  His head is mostly shaven; but the hair at the back is plaited
with a quantity of black purse twist into a queue which reaches to
his knees; above which; set well back; he wears a stiff; black
satin skull…cap; without which he is never seen。  His face is very
yellow; his long dark eyes and eyebrows slope upwards towards his
temples; he has not the vestige of a beard; and his skin is shiny。
He looks thoroughly 〃well…to…do。〃  He is not unpleasing…looking;
but you feel that as a Celestial he looks down upon you。  If you
ask a question in a merchant's office; or change your gold into
satsu; or take your railroad or steamer ticket; or get change in a
shop; the inevitable Chinaman appears。  In the street he swings
past you with a purpose in his face; as he flies past you in a
kuruma he is bent on business; he is sober and reliable; and is
content to 〃squeeze〃 his employer rather than to rob himhis one
aim in life is money。  For this he is industrious; faithful; self…
denying; and he has his reward。

Several of my kind new acquaintances interested themselves about
the (to me) vital matter of a servant interpreter; and many
Japanese came to 〃see after the place。〃  The speaking of
intelligible English is a sine qua non; and it was wonderful to
find the few words badly pronounced and worse put together; which
were regarded by the candidates as a sufficient qualification。  Can
you speak English?  〃Yes。〃  What wages do you ask?  〃Twelve dollars
a month。〃  This was always said glibly; and in each case sounded
hopeful。  Whom have you lived with?  A foreign name distorted out
of all recognition; as was natural; was then given。  Where have you
travelled?  This question usually had to be translated into
Japanese; and the usual answer was; 〃The Tokaido; the Nakasendo; to
Kiyoto; to Nikko;〃 naming the beaten tracks of countless tourists。
Do you know anything of Northern Japan and the Hokkaido?  〃No;〃
with a blank wondering look。  At this stage in every case Dr。
Hepburn compassionately stepped in as interpreter; for their stock
of English was exhausted。  Three were regarded as promising。  One
was a sprightly youth who came in a well…made European suit of
light…coloured tweed; a laid…down collar; a tie with a diamond (?)
pin; and a white shirt; so stiffly starched; that he could hardly
bend low enough for a bow even of European profundity。  He wore a
gilt watch…chain with a locket; the corner of a very white cambric
pocket…handkerchief dangled from his breast pocket; and he held a
cane and a felt hat in his hand。  He was a Japanese dandy of the
first water。  I looked at him ruefully。  To me starched collars are
to be an unknown luxury for the next three months。  His fine
foreign clothes would enhance prices everywhere in the interior;
and besides that; I should feel a perpetual difficulty in asking
menial services from an exquisite。  I was therefore quite relieved
when his English broke down at the second question。

The second was a most respectable…looking man of thirty…five in a
good Japanese dress。  He was highly recommended; and his first
English words were promising; but he had been cook in the service
of a wealthy English official who travelled with a large retinue;
and sent servants on ahead to prepare the way。  He knew really only
a few words of English; and his horror at finding that there was
〃no master;〃 and that there would be no woman…servant; was so
great; that I hardly know whether he rejected me or I him。

The third; sent by Mr。 Wilkinson; wore a plain Japanese dress; and
had a frank; intelligent face。  Though Dr。 Hepburn spoke with him
in Japanese; he thought that he knew more English than the others;
and that what he knew would come out when he was less agitated。  He
evidently understood what I said; and; though I had a suspicion
that he would turn out to be the 〃master;〃 I thought him so
prepossessing that I nearly engaged him on the spot。  None of the
others merit any remark。

However; when I had nearly made up my mind in his favour; a
creature appeared without any recommendation at all; except that
one of Dr。 Hepburn's servants was acquainted with him。  He is only
eighteen; but this is equivalent to twenty…three or twenty…four
with us; and only 4 feet 10 inches in height; but; though bandy…
legged; is well proportioned and strong…looking。  He has a round
and singularly plain face; good teeth; much elongated eyes; and the
heavy droop of his eyelids almost caricatures the usual Japanese
peculiarity。  He is the most stupid…looking Japanese that I have
seen; but; from a rapid; furtive glance in his eyes now and then; I
think that the stolidity is partly assumed。  He said that he had
lived at the American Legation; that he had been a clerk on the
Osaka railroad; that he had travelled through northern Japan by the
eastern route; and in Yezo with Mr。 Maries; a botanical collector;
that he understood drying plants; that he could cook a little; that
he could write English; that he could walk twenty…five miles a day;
and that he thoroughly understood getting through the interior!
This would…be para
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