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there are two sizes。 Ours was a small one； flat…bottomed； 25 feet
long by 2。5 broad； drawing 6 inches； very low in the water； and
with sides slightly curved inwards。 The prow forms a gradual long
curve from the body of the boat； and is very high。
The mists rolled away as dusk came on； and revealed a lovely
country with much picturesqueness of form； and near Kotsunagi the
river disappears into a narrow gorge with steep； sentinel hills；
dark with pine and cryptomeria。 To cross the river we had to go
fully a mile above the point aimed at； and then a few minutes of
express speed brought us to a landing in a deep； tough quagmire in
a dark wood； through which we groped our lamentable way to the
yadoya。 A heavy mist came on； and the rain returned in torrents；
the doma was ankle deep in black slush。 The daidokoro was open to
the roof； roof and rafters were black with smoke； and a great fire
of damp wood was smoking lustily。 Round some live embers in the
irori fifteen men； women； and children were lying； doing nothing；
by the dim light of an andon。 It was picturesque decidedly； and I
was well disposed to be content when the production of some
handsome fusuma created daimiyo's rooms out of the farthest part of
the dim and wandering space； opening upon a damp garden； into which
the rain splashed all night。
The solitary spoil of the day's journey was a glorious lily； which
I presented to the house…master； and in the morning it was blooming
on the kami…dana in a small vase of priceless old Satsuma china。 I
was awoke out of a sound sleep by Ito coming in with a rumour；
brought by some travellers； that the Prime Minister had been
assassinated； and fifty policemen killed！ ＇This was probably a
distorted version of the partial mutiny of the Imperial Guard；
which I learned on landing in Yezo。＇ Very wild political rumours
are in the air in these outlandish regions； and it is not very
wonderful that the peasantry lack confidence in the existing order
of things after the changes of the last ten years； and the recent
assassination of the Home Minister。 I did not believe the rumour；
for fanaticism； even in its wildest moods； usually owes some
allegiance to common sense； but it was disturbing； as I have
naturally come to feel a deep interest in Japanese affairs。 A few
hours later Ito again presented himself with a bleeding cut on his
temple。 In lighting his pipean odious nocturnal practice of the
Japanesehe had fallen over the edge of the fire…pot。 I always
sleep in a Japanese kimona to be ready for emergencies； and soon
bound up his head； and slept again； to be awoke early by another
deluge。
We made an early start； but got over very little ground； owing to
bad roads and long delays。 All day the rain came down in even
torrents； the tracks were nearly impassable； my horse fell five
times； I suffered severely from pain and exhaustion； and almost
fell into despair about ever reaching the sea。 In these wild
regions there are no kago or norimons to be had； and a pack…horse
is the only conveyance； and yesterday； having abandoned my own
saddle； I had the bad luck to get a pack…saddle with specially
angular and uncompromising peaks； with a soaked and extremely
unwashed futon on the top； spars； tackle； ridges； and furrows of
the most exasperating description； and two nooses of rope to hold
on by as the animal slid down hill on his haunches； or let me
almost slide over his tail as he scrambled and plunged up hill。
It was pretty country； even in the downpour； when white mists
parted and fir…crowned heights looked out for a moment； or we slid
down into a deep glen with mossy boulders； lichen…covered stumps；
ferny carpet； and damp； balsamy smell of pyramidal cryptomeria； and
a tawny torrent dashing through it in gusts of passion。 Then there
were low hills； much scrub； immense rice…fields； and violent
inundations。 But it is not pleasant； even in the prettiest
country； to cling on to a pack…saddle with a saturated quilt below
you and the water slowly soaking down through your wet clothes into
your boots； knowing all the time that when you halt you must sleep
on a wet bed； and change into damp clothes； and put on the wet ones
again the next morning。 The villages were poor； and most of the
houses were of boards rudely nailed together for ends； and for
sides straw rudely tied on； they had no windows； and smoke came out
of every crack。 They were as unlike the houses which travellers
see in southern Japan as a 〃black hut〃 in Uist is like a cottage in
a trim village in Kent。 These peasant proprietors have much to
learn of the art of living。 At Tsuguriko； the next stage； where
the Transport Office was so dirty that I was obliged to sit in the
street in the rain； they told us that we could only get on a ri
farther； because the bridges were all carried away and the fords
were impassable； but I engaged horses； and； by dint of British
doggedness and the willingness of the mago； I got the horses singly
and without their loads in small punts across the swollen waters of
the Hayakuchi； the Yuwase； and the Mochida； and finally forded
three branches of my old friend the Yonetsurugawa； with the foam of
its hurrying waters whitening the men's shoulders and the horses'
packs； and with a hundred Japanese looking on at the 〃folly〃 of the
foreigner。
I like to tell you of kind people everywhere； and the two mago were
specially so； for； when they found that I was pushing on to Yezo
for fear of being laid up in the interior wilds； they did all they
could to help me； lifted me gently from the horse； made steps of
their backs for me to mount； and gathered for me handfuls of red
berries； which I ate out of politeness； though they tasted of some
nauseous drug。 They suggested that I should stay at the
picturesquely…situated old village of Kawaguchi； but everything
about it was mildewed and green with damp； and the stench from the
green and black ditches with which it abounded was so overpowering；
even in passing through； that I was obliged to ride on to Odate； a
crowded； forlorn； half…tumbling…to…pieces town of 8000 people； with
bark roofs held down by stones。
The yadoyas are crowded with storm…staid travellers； and I had a
weary tramp from one to another； almost sinking from pain； pressed
upon by an immense crowd； and frequently bothered by a policeman；
who followed me from one place to the other； making wholly
unrighteous demands for my passport at that most inopportune time。
After a long search I could get nothing better than this room； with
fusuma of tissue paper； in the centre of the din of the house；
close to the doma and daidokoro。 Fifty travellers； nearly all men；
are here； mostly speaking at the top of their voices； and in a
provincial jargon which exasperates Ito。 Cooking； bathing； eating；
and； worst of all； perpetual drawing water from a well with a
creaking hoisting apparatus； are going on from 4。30 in the morning
till 11。30 at night； and on both evenings noisy mirth； of alcoholic
inspiration； and dissonant performances by geishas have added to
the dim
In all places lately Hai； 〃yes；〃 has been pronounced He； Chi； Na；
Ne； to Ito's great contempt。 It sounds like an expletive or
interjection rather than a response； and seems used often as a sign
of respect or attention only。 Often it is loud and shrill； then
guttural； at times little more than a sigh。 In these yadoyas every
sound is audible； and I hear low rumbling of mingled voices； and
above all the sharp Hai； Hai of the tea…house girls in full chorus
from every quarter of the house。 The habit of saying it is so
strong that a man roused out of sleep jumps up with Hai； Hai； and
often； when I speak to Ito in English； a stupid Hebe sitting by
answers Hai。
I don't want to convey a false impression of the noise here。 It
would be at least three times as great were I in equally close
proximity to a large hotel kitchen in England； with fifty Britons
only separated from me by paper partitions。 I had not been long in
bed on Saturday night when I was awoke by Ito bringing in an old
hen which he said he could stew till it was tender； and I fell
asleep again with its dying squeak in my ears； to be awoke a second
time by two policemen wanting for some occult reason to see my
passport； and a third time by two men with lanterns scrambling and
fumbling about the room for the strings of a mosquito net； which
they wanted for another traveller。 These are among the ludicrous
incidents of Japanese travelling。 About five Ito woke me by saying
he was quite sure that the moxa would be the thing to cure my
spine； and； as we were going to stay all day； he would go and fetch
an operator； but I rejected this as emphatically as the services of
the blind man！ Yesterday a man came and pasted slips of paper over
all the 〃peep holes〃 in the shoji； and I have been very little
annoyed； even though the yadoya is so crowded。
The rain continues to come down in torrents； and rumours are hourly
arriving of disasters to roads and bridges on the northern route。
I。 L。 B。
LETTER XXVII
Good…tempered IntoxicationThe Effect of SunshineA tedious
AltercationEvening OccupationsNoisy TalkSoc