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Tsuguriko 136 3 5
Odate 1；673 4 23
Shirasawa 71 2 19
Ikarigaseki 175 4 18
Kuroishi 1；176 6 19
Daishaka 43 4
Shinjo 51 2 21
Aomori 1 24
Ri 153 9
About 368 miles。
This is considerably under the actual distance； as on several of
the mountain routes the ri is 56 cho； but in the lack of accurate
information the ri has been taken at its ordinary standard of 36
cho throughout。
LETTER XXXIII
Form and ColourA Windy CapitalEccentricities in House Roofs。
HAKODATE； YEZO； August 13； 1878
After a tremendous bluster for two days the weather has become
beautifully fine； and I find the climate here more invigorating
than that of the main island。 It is Japan； but yet there is a
difference somehow。 When the mists lift they reveal not mountains
smothered in greenery； but naked peaks； volcanoes only recently
burnt out； with the red ash flaming under the noonday sun； and
passing through shades of pink into violet at sundown。 Strips of
sand border the bay； ranges of hills； with here and there a patch
of pine or scrub； fade into the far…off blue； and the great cloud
shadows lie upon their scored sides in indigo and purple。 Blue as
the Adriatic are the waters of the land…locked bay； and the snowy
sails of pale junks look whiter than snow against its intense
azure。 The abruptness of the double peaks behind the town is
softened by a belt of cryptomeria； the sandy strip which connects
the headland with the mainland heightens the general resemblance of
the contour of the ground to Gibraltar； but while one dreams of the
western world a kuruma passes one at a trot； temple drums are
beaten in a manner which does not recall 〃the roll of the British
drum；〃 a Buddhist funeral passes down the street； or a man…cart
pulled and pushed by four yellow…skinned； little…clothed mannikins；
creaks by； with the monotonous grunt of Ha huida。
A single look at Hakodate itself makes one feel that it is Japan
all over。 The streets are very wide and clean； but the houses are
mean and low。 The city looks as if it had just recovered from a
conflagration。 The houses are nothing but tinder。 The grand tile
roofs of some other cities are not to be seen。 There is not an
element of permanence in the wide； and windy streets。 It is an
increasing and busy place； it lies for two miles along the shore；
and has climbed the hill till it can go no higher； but still houses
and people look poor。 It has a skeleton aspect too； which is
partially due to the number of permanent 〃clothes…horses〃 on the
roofs。 Stones； however； are its prominent feature。 Looking down
upon it from above you see miles of grey boulders； and realise that
every roof in the windy capital is 〃hodden doun〃 by a weight of
paving stones。 Nor is this all。 Some of the flatter roofs are
pebbled all over like a courtyard； and others； such as the roof of
this house； for instance； are covered with sod and crops of grass；
the two latter arrangements being precautions against risks from
sparks during fires。 These paving stones are certainly the
cheapest possible mode of keeping the roofs on the houses in such a
windy region； but they look odd。
None of the streets； except one high up the hill； with a row of
fine temples and temple grounds； call for any notice。 Nearly every
house is a shop； most of the shops supply only the ordinary
articles consumed by a large and poor population； either real or
imitated foreign goods abound in Main Street； and the only
novelties are the furs； skins； and horns； which abound in shops
devoted to their sale。 I covet the great bear furs and the deep
cream…coloured furs of Aino dogs； which are cheap as well as
handsome。 There are many second…hand； or； as they are called；
〃curio〃 shops； and the cheap lacquer from Aomori is also tempting
to a stranger。
I。 L。 B。
LETTER XXXIV
Ito's Delinquency〃Missionary Manners〃A Predicted Failure。
HAKODATE； YEZO。
I am enjoying Hakodate so much that； though my tour is all planned
and my arrangements are made； I linger on from day to day。 There
has been an unpleasant eclaircissement about Ito。 You will
remember that I engaged him without a character； and that he told
both Lady Parkes and me that after I had done so his former master；
Mr。 Maries； asked him to go back to him； to which he had replied
that he had 〃a contract with a lady。〃 Mr。 Maries is here； and I
now find that he had a contract with Ito； by which Ito bound
himself to serve him as long as he required him； for 7 a month；
but that； hearing that I offered 12； he ran away from him and
entered my service with a lie！ Mr。 Maries has been put to the
greatest inconvenience by his defection； and has been hindered
greatly in completing his botanical collection； for Ito is very
clever； and he had not only trained him to dry plants successfully；
but he could trust him to go away for two or three days and collect
seeds。 I am very sorry about it。 He says that Ito was a bad boy
when he came to him； but he thinks that he cured him of some of his
faults； and that he has served me faithfully。 I have seen Mr。
Maries at the Consul's； and have arranged that； after my Yezo tour
is over； Ito shall be returned to his rightful master； who will
take him to China and Formosa for a year and a half； and who； I
think； will look after his well…being in every way。 Dr。 and Mrs。
Hepburn； who are here； heard a bad account of the boy after I began
my travels and were uneasy about me； but； except for this original
lie； I have no fault to find with him； and his Shinto creed has not
taught him any better。 When I paid him his wages this morning he
asked me if I had any fault to find； and I told him of my objection
to his manners； which he took in very good part and promised to
amend them； 〃but；〃 he added； 〃mine are just missionary manners！〃
Yesterday I dined at the Consulate； to meet Count Diesbach； of the
French Legation； Mr。 Von Siebold； of the Austrian Legation； and
Lieutenant Kreitner； of the Austrian army； who start to…morrow on
an exploring expedition in the interior； intending to cross the
sources of the rivers which fall into the sea on the southern coast
and measure the heights of some of the mountains。 They are 〃well
found〃 in food and claret； but take such a number of pack…ponies
with them that I predict that they will fail； and that I； who have
reduced my luggage to 45 lbs。； will succeed！
I hope to start on my long…projected tour to…morrow； I have planned
it for myself with the confidence of an experienced traveller； and
look forward to it with great pleasure； as a visit to the
aborigines is sure to be full of novel and interesting experiences。
Good…bye for a long time。 I。 L。 B。
LETTER XXXV ｛17｝
A Lovely SunsetAn Official LetterA 〃Front Horse〃Japanese
CourtesyThe Steam FerryCoolies AbscondA Team of SavagesA
Drove of HorsesFloral BeautiesAn Unbeaten TrackA Ghostly
DwellingSolitude and Eeriness。
GINSAINOMA； YEZO； August 17。
I am once again in the wilds！ I am sitting outside an upper room
built out almost over a lonely lake； with wooded points purpling
and still shadows deepening in the sinking sun。 A number of men
are dragging down the nearest hillside the carcass of a bear which
they have just despatched with spears。 There is no village； and
the busy clatter of the cicada and the rustle of the forest are the
only sounds which float on the still evening air。 The sunset
colours are pink and green； on the tinted water lie the waxen cups
of great water…lilies； and above the wooded heights the pointed；
craggy； and altogether naked summit of the volcano of Komono…taki
flushes red in the sunset。 Not the least of the charms of the
evening is that I am absolutely alone； having ridden the eighteen
miles from Hakodate without Ito or an attendant of any kind； have
unsaddled my own horse； and by means of much politeness and a
dexterous use of Japanese substantives have secured a good room and
supper of rice； eggs； and black beans for myself and a mash of
beans for my horse； which； as it belongs to the Kaitakushi； and has
the dignity of iron shoes； is entitled to special consideration！
I am not yet off the 〃beaten track；〃 but my spirits are rising with
the fine weather； the drier atmosphere； and the freedom of Yezo。
Yezo is to the main island of Japan what Tipperary is to an
Englishman； Barra to a Scotchman； 〃away down in Texas〃 to a New
Yorkerin the rough； little known； and thinly…peopled； and people
can locate all sorts of improbable stories here without much fear
of being found out； of which the Ainos and the misdeeds of the
ponies furnish the staple； and the queer doings of men and dogs；
and adventures with bears； wolves； and salmon； the embroidery。
Nobody comes here without meeting with something queer； and one or
two tumbles either with or from his horse。 Very little is known of
the interior except that it is covered with forest matted together
by lianas； and with an und