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water； and the red ashes of the volcano； which forms the south
point of the bay； glowed in the sunlight。 This wretched steamer；
whose boilers are so often 〃sick〃 that she can never be relied
upon； is the only means of reaching the new capital without taking
a most difficult and circuitous route。 To continue the pier and
put a capable good steamer on the ferry would be a useful
expenditure of money。 The breeze was strong and in our favour； but
even with this it took us six weary hours to steam twenty…five
miles； and it was eight at night before we reached the beautiful
and almost land…locked bay of Mororan； with steep； wooded sides；
and deep water close to the shore； deep enough for the foreign
ships of war which occasionally anchor there； much to the detriment
of the town。 We got off in over…crowded sampans； and several
people fell into the water； much to their own amusement。 The
servants from the different yadoyas go down to the jetty to 〃tout〃
for guests with large paper lanterns； and the effect of these； one
above another； waving and undulating； with their soft coloured
light； was as bewitching as the reflection of the stars in the
motionless water。 Mororan is a small town very picturesquely
situated on the steep shore of a most lovely bay； with another
height； richly wooded； above it； with shrines approached by flights
of stone stairs； and behind this hill there is the first Aino
village along this coast。
The long； irregular street is slightly picturesque； but I was
impressed both with the unusual sight of loafers and with the
dissolute look of the place； arising from the number of joroyas；
and from the number of yadoyas that are also haunts of the vicious。
I could only get a very small room in a very poor and dirty inn；
but there were no mosquitoes； and I got a good meal of fish。 On
sending to order horses I found that everything was arranged for my
journey。 The Governor sent his card early； to know if there were
anything I should like to see or do； but； as the morning was grey
and threatening； I wished to push on； and at 9。30 I was in the
kuruma at the inn door。 I call it the kuruma because it is the
only one； and is kept by the Government for the conveyance of
hospital patients。 I sat there uncomfortably and patiently for
half an hour； my only amusement being the flirtations of Ito with a
very pretty girl。 Loiterers assembled； but no one came to draw the
vehicle； and by degrees the dismal truth leaked out that the three
coolies who had been impressed for the occasion had all absconded；
and that four policemen were in search of them。 I walked on in a
dawdling way up the steep hill which leads from the town； met Mr。
Akboshi； a pleasant young Japanese surveyor； who spoke English and
stigmatised Mororan as 〃the worst place in Yezo；〃 and； after fuming
for two hours at the waste of time； was overtaken by Ito with the
horses； in a boiling rage。 〃They're the worst and wickedest
coolies in all Japan；〃 he stammered； 〃two more ran away； and now
three are coming； and have got paid for four； and the first three
who ran away got paid； and the Express man's so ashamed for a
foreigner； and the Governor's in a furious rage。〃
Except for the loss of time it made no difference to me； but when
the kuruma did come up the runners were three such ruffianly…
looking men； and were dressed so wildly in bark cloth； that； in
sending Ito on twelve miles to secure relays； I sent my money along
with him。 These men； though there were three instead of two； never
went out of a walk； and； as if on purpose； took the vehicle over
every stone and into every rut； and kept up a savage chorus of
〃haes…ha； haes…hora〃 the whole time； as if they were pulling stone…
carts。 There are really no runners out of Hakodate； and the men
don't know how to pull； and hate doing it。
Mororan Bay is truly beautiful from the top of the ascent。 The
coast scenery of Japan generally is the loveliest I have ever seen；
except that of a portion of windward Hawaii； and this yields in
beauty to none。 The irregular grey town； with a grey temple on the
height above； straggles round the little bay on a steep； wooded
terrace； hills； densely wooded； and with a perfect entanglement of
large…leaved trailers； descend abruptly to the water's edge； the
festoons of the vines are mirrored in the still waters； and above
the dark forest； and beyond the gleaming sea； rises the red； peaked
top of the volcano。 Then the road dips abruptly to sandy
swellings； rising into bold headlands here and there； and for the
first time I saw the surge of 5000 miles of unbroken ocean break
upon the shore。 Glimpses of the Pacific； an uncultivated； swampy
level quite uninhabited； and distant hills mainly covered with
forest； made up the landscape till I reached Horobets； a mixed
Japanese and Aino village built upon the sand near the sea。
In these mixed villages the Ainos are compelled to live at a
respectful distance from the Japanese； and frequently out…number
them； as at Horobets； where there are forty…seven Aino and only
eighteen Japanese houses。 The Aino village looks larger than it
really is； because nearly every house has a kura； raised six feet
from the ground by wooden stilts。 When I am better acquainted with
the houses I shall describe them； at present I will only say that
they do not resemble the Japanese houses so much as the Polynesian；
as they are made of reeds very neatly tied upon a wooden framework。
They have small windows； and roofs of a very great height； and
steep pitch； with the thatch in a series of very neat frills； and
the ridge poles covered with reeds； and ornamented。 The coast
Ainos are nearly all engaged in fishing； but at this season the men
hunt deer in the forests。 On this coast there are several names
compounded with bets or pets； the Aino for a river； such as
Horobets； Yubets； Mombets； etc。
I found that Ito had been engaged for a whole hour in a violent
altercation； which was caused by the Transport Agent refusing to
supply runners for the kuruma； saying that no one in Horobets would
draw one； but on my producing the shomon I was at once started on
my journey of sixteen miles with three Japanese lads； Ito riding on
to Shiraoi to get my room ready。 I think that the Transport
Offices in Yezo are in Government hands。 In a few minutes three
Ainos ran out of a house； took the kuruma； and went the whole stage
without stopping。 They took a boy and three saddled horses along
with them to bring them back； and rode and hauled alternately； two
youths always attached to the shafts； and a man pushing behind。
They were very kind； and so courteous； after a new fashion； that I
quite forgot that I was alone among savages。 The lads were young
and beardless； their lips were thick； and their mouths very wide；
and I thought that they approached more nearly to the Eskimo type
than to any other。 They had masses of soft black hair falling on
each side of their faces。 The adult man was not a pure Aino。 His
dark hair was not very thick； and both it and his beard had an
occasional auburn gleam。 I think I never saw a face more
completely beautiful in features and expression； with a lofty； sad；
far…off； gentle； intellectual look； rather that of Sir Noel Paton's
〃Christ〃 than of a savage。 His manner was most graceful； and he
spoke both Aino and Japanese in the low musical tone which I find
is a characteristic of Aino speech。 These Ainos never took off
their clothes； but merely let them fall from one or both shoulders
when it was very warm。
The road from Horobets to Shiraoi is very solitary； with not more
than four or five houses the whole way。 It is broad and straight；
except when it ascends hills or turns inland to cross rivers； and
is carried across a broad swampy level； covered with tall wild
flowers； which extends from the high beach thrown up by the sea for
two miles inland； where there is a lofty wall of wooded rock； and
beyond this the forest…covered mountains of the interior。 On the
top of the raised beach there were Aino hamlets； and occasionally a
nearly overpowering stench came across the level from the sheds and
apparatus used for extracting fish…oil。 I enjoyed the afternoon
thoroughly。 It is so good to have got beyond the confines of
stereotyped civilisation and the trammels of Japanese travelling to
the solitude of nature and an atmosphere of freedom。 It was grey；
with a hard； dark line of ocean horizon； and over the weedy level
the grey road； with grey telegraph…poles along it； stretched
wearisomely like a grey thread。 The breeze came up from the sea；
rustled the reeds； and waved the tall plumes of the Eulalia
japonica； and the thunder of the Pacific surges boomed through the
air with its grand； deep bass。 Poetry and music pervaded the
solitude； and my spirit was rested。
Going up and then down a steep； wooded hill； the road appeared to
return to its original state of brushwood； and the men stopped at
the broken edge of a declivity which led down to a shingle bank and
a foam…crested river of clear； blue…green water； strongly
impregnated with sulphur from some medicinal springs above； with a
steep bank of tangle on the oppos