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Sarufuto； and goes through forest the entire distance； with an
abundance of reedy grass higher than my hat on horseback along it；
and； as it is only twelve inches broad and much overgrown； the
horses were constantly pushing through leafage soaking from a
night's rain； and I was soon wet up to my shoulders。 The forest
trees are almost solely the Ailanthus glandulosus and the Zelkowa
keaki； often matted together with a white…flowered trailer of the
Hydrangea genus。 The undergrowth is simply hideous； consisting
mainly of coarse reedy grass； monstrous docks； the large…leaved
Polygonum cuspidatum； several umbelliferous plants； and a 〃ragweed〃
which； like most of its gawky fellows； grows from five to six feet
high。 The forest is dark and very silent； threaded by this narrow
path； and by others as narrow； made by the hunters in search of
game。 The 〃main road〃 sometimes plunges into deep bogs； at others
is roughly corduroyed by the roots of trees； and frequently hangs
over the edge of abrupt and much…worn declivities； in going up one
of which the baggage…horse rolled down a bank fully thirty feet
high； and nearly all the tea was lost。 At another the guide's
pack…saddle lost its balance； and man； horse； and saddle went over
the slope； pots； pans； and packages flying after them。 At another
time my horse sank up to his chest in a very bad bog； and； as he
was totally unable to extricate himself； I was obliged to scramble
upon his neck and jump to terra firma over his ears。
There is something very gloomy in the solitude of this silent land；
with its beast…haunted forests； its great patches of pasture； the
resort of wild animals which haunt the lower regions in search of
food when the snow drives them down from the mountains； and its
narrow track； indicating the single file in which the savages of
the interior walk with their bare； noiseless feet。 Reaching the
Sarufutogawa； a river with a treacherous bottom； in which Mr。 Von
Siebold and his horse came to grief； I hailed an Aino boy； who took
me up the stream in a 〃dug…out；〃 and after that we passed through
Biroka； Saruba； and Mina； all purely Aino villages； situated among
small patches of millet； tobacco； and pumpkins； so choked with
weeds that it was doubtful whether they were crops。 I was much
surprised with the extreme neatness and cleanliness outside the
houses； 〃model villages〃 they are in these respects； with no litter
lying in sight anywhere； nothing indeed but dog troughs； hollowed
out of logs； like 〃dug…outs；〃 for the numerous yellow dogs； which
are a feature of Aino life。 There are neither puddles nor heaps；
but the houses； all trim and in good repair； rise clean out of the
sandy soil。
Biratori； the largest of the Aino settlements in this region； is
very prettily situated among forests and mountains； on rising
ground； with a very sinuous river winding at its feet and a wooded
height above。 A lonelier place could scarcely be found。 As we
passed among the houses the yellow dogs barked； the women looked
shy and smiled； and the men made their graceful salutation。 We
stopped at the chief's house； where； of course； we were unexpected
guests； but Shinondi； his nephew； and two other men came out；
saluted us； and with most hospitable intent helped Ito to unload
the horses。 Indeed their eager hospitality created quite a
commotion； one running hither and the other thither in their
anxiety to welcome a stranger。 It is a large house； the room being
35 by 25； and the roof 20 feet high； but you enter by an ante…
chamber； in which are kept the millet…mill and other articles。
There is a doorway in this； but the inside is pretty dark； and
Shinondi； taking my hand； raised the reed curtain bound with hide；
which concealed the entrance into the actual house； and； leading me
into it； retired a footstep； extended his arms； waved his arms
inwards three times； and then stroked his beard several times；
after which he indicated by a sweep of his hand and a beautiful
smile that the house and all it contained were mine。 An aged
woman； the chief's mother； who was splitting bark by the fire；
waved her hands also。 She is the queen…regnant of the house。
Again taking my hand； Shinondi led me to the place of honour at the
head of the firea rude； movable platform six feet long by four
broad； and a foot high； on which he laid an ornamental mat；
apologising for not having at that moment a bearskin wherewith to
cover it。 The baggage was speedily brought in by several willing
pairs of hands； some reed mats fifteen feet long were laid down
upon the very coarse ones which covered the whole floor； and when
they saw Ito putting up my stretcher they hung a fine mat along the
rough wall to conceal it； and suspended another on the beams of the
roof for a canopy。 The alacrity and instinctive hospitality with
which these men rushed about to make things comfortable were very
fascinating； though comfort is a word misapplied in an Aino hut。
The women only did what the men told them。
They offered food at once； but I told them that I had brought my
own； and would only ask leave to cook it on their fire。 I need not
have brought any cups； for they have many lacquer bowls； and
Shinondi brought me on a lacquer tray a bowl full of water from one
of their four wells。 They said that Benri； the chief； would wish
me to make his house my own for as long as I cared to stay； and I
must excuse them in all things in which their ways were different
from my own。 Shinondi and four others in the village speak
tolerable Japanese； and this of course is the medium of
communication。 Ito has exerted himself nobly as an interpreter；
and has entered into my wishes with a cordiality and intelligence
which have been perfectly invaluable； and； though he did growl at
Mr。 Von Siebold's injunctions regarding politeness； he has carried
them out to my satisfaction； and even admits that the mountain
Ainos are better than he expected； 〃but；〃 he added 〃they have
learned their politeness from the Japanese！〃 They have never seen
a foreign woman； and only three foreign men； but there is neither
crowding nor staring as among the Japanese； possibly in part from
apathy and want of intelligence。 For three days they have kept up
their graceful and kindly hospitality； going on with their ordinary
life and occupations； and； though I have lived among them in this
room by day and night； there has been nothing which in any way
could offend the most fastidious sense of delicacy。
They said they would leave me to eat and rest； and all retired but
the chief's mother； a weird； witch…like woman of eighty； with
shocks of yellow…white hair； and a stern suspiciousness in her
wrinkled face。 I have come to feel as if she had the evil eye； as
she sits there watching； watching always； and for ever knotting the
bark thread like one of the Fates； keeping a jealous watch on her
son's two wives； and on other young women who come in to weave
neither the dulness nor the repose of old age about her； and her
eyes gleam with a greedy light when she sees sake； of which she
drains a bowl without taking breath。 She alone is suspicious of
strangers； and she thinks that my visit bodes no good to her tribe。
I see her eyes fixed upon me now； and they make me shudder。
I had a good meal seated in my chair on the top of the guest…seat
to avoid the fleas； which are truly legion。 At dusk Shinondi
returned； and soon people began to drop in； till eighteen were
assembled； including the sub…chief and several very grand…looking
old men； with full； grey； wavy beards。 Age is held in much
reverence； and it is etiquette for these old men to do honour to a
guest in the chief's absence。 As each entered he saluted me
several times； and after sitting down turned towards me and saluted
again； going through the same ceremony with every other person。
They said they had come 〃to bid me welcome。〃 They took their
places in rigid order at each side of the fireplace； which is six
feet long； Benri's mother in the place of honour at the right； then
Shinondi； then the sub…chief； and on the other side the old men。
Besides these； seven women sat in a row in the background splitting
bark。 A large iron pan hung over the fire from a blackened
arrangement above； and Benri's principal wife cut wild roots； green
beans； and seaweed； and shred dried fish and venison among them；
adding millet； water； and some strong…smelling fish…oil； and set
the whole on to stew for three hours； stirring the 〃mess〃 now and
then with a wooden spoon。
Several of the older people smoke； and I handed round some mild
tobacco； which they received with waving hands。 I told them that I
came from a land in the sea； very far away； where they saw the sun
go downso very far away that a horse would have to gallop day and
night for five weeks to reach itand that I had come a long
journey to see them； and that I wanted to ask them many questions；
so that when I went home I might tell my own people something about
them。 Shinondi and another man； who understood Japanese； bowed；
and （as on every occasion） translated what I said into Aino for the
venerable group opposite。 Shinondi then said 〃that he and
Shinr