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ordinary lives。
During the evening a man came to ask if I would go and see a woman
who could hardly breathe； and I found her very ill of bronchitis；
accompanied with much fever。 She was lying in a coat of skins；
tossing on the hard boards of her bed； with a matting…covered roll
under her head； and her husband was trying to make her swallow some
salt…fish。 I took her dry； hot handsuch a small hand； tattooed
all over the backand it gave me a strange thrill。 The room was
full of people； and they all seemed very sorry。 A medical
missionary would be of little use here； but a medically…trained
nurse； who would give medicines and proper food； with proper
nursing； would save many lives and much suffering。 It is of no use
to tell these people to do anything which requires to be done more
than once： they are just like children。 I gave her some
chlorodyne； which she swallowed with difficulty； and left another
dose ready mixed； to give her in a few hours； but about midnight
they came to tell me that she was worse； and on going I found her
very cold and weak； and breathing very hard； moving her head
wearily from side to side。 I thought she could not live for many
hours； and was much afraid that they would think that I had killed
her。 I told them that I thought she would die； but they urged me
to do something more for her； and as a last hope I gave her some
brandy； with twenty…five drops of chlorodyne； and a few spoonfuls
of very strong beef…tea。 She was unable； or more probably
unwilling； to make the effort to swallow it； and I poured it down
her throat by the wild glare of strips of birch bark。 An hour
later they came back to tell me that she felt as if she were very
drunk； but； going back to her house； I found that she was sleeping
quietly； and breathing more easily； and； creeping back just at
dawn； I found her still sleeping； and with her pulse stronger and
calmer。 She is now decidedly better and quite sensible； and her
husband； the sub…chief； is much delighted。 It seems so sad that
they have nothing fit for a sick person's food； and though I have
made a bowl of beef…tea with the remains of my stock； it can only
last one day。
I was so tired with these nocturnal expeditions and anxieties that
on lying down I fell asleep； and on waking found more than the
usual assemblage in the room； and the men were obviously agog about
something。 They have a singular； and I hope an unreasonable； fear
of the Japanese Government。 Mr。 Von Siebold thinks that the
officials threaten and knock them about； and this is possible； but
I really think that the Kaitaikushi Department means well by them；
and； besides removing the oppressive restrictions by which； as a
conquered race； they were fettered； treats them far more humanely
and equitably than the U。S。 Government； for instance； treats the
North American Indians。 However； they are ignorant； and one of the
men； who had been most grateful because I said I would get Dr。
Hepburn to send some medicine for his child； came this morning and
begged me not to do so； as； he said； 〃the Japanese Government would
be angry。〃 After this they again prayed me not to tell the
Japanese Government that they had told me their customs and then
they began to talk earnestly together。
The sub…chief then spoke； and said that I had been kind to their
sick people； and they would like to show me their temple； which had
never been seen by any foreigner； but they were very much afraid of
doing so； and they asked me many times 〃not to tell the Japanese
Government that they showed it to me； lest some great harm should
happen to them。〃 The sub…chief put on a sleeveless Japanese war…
cloak to go up； and he； Shinondi； Pipichari； and two others
accompanied me。 It was a beautiful but very steep walk； or rather
climb； to the top of an abrupt acclivity beyond the village； on
which the temple or shrine stands。 It would be impossible to get
up were it not for the remains of a wooden staircase； not of Aino
construction。 Forest and mountain surround Biratori； and the only
breaks in the dense greenery are glints of the shining waters of
the Sarufutogawa； and the tawny roofs of the Aino lodges。 It is a
lonely and a silent land； fitter for the HIDING place than the
DWELLING place of men。
When the splendid young savage； Pipichari； saw that I found it
difficult to get up； he took my hand and helped me up； as gently as
an English gentleman would have done； and when he saw that I had
greater difficulty in getting down； he all but insisted on my
riding down on his back； and certainly would have carried me had
not Benri； the chief； who arrived while we were at the shrine； made
an end of it by taking my hand and helping me down himself。 Their
instinct of helpfulness to a foreign woman strikes me as so odd；
because they never show any courtesy to their own women； whom they
treat （though to a less extent than is usual among savages） as
inferior beings。
On the very edge of the cliff； at the top of the zigzag； stands a
wooden temple or shrine； such as one sees in any grove； or on any
high place on the main island； obviously of Japanese construction；
but concerning which Aino tradition is silent。 No European had
ever stood where I stood； and there was a solemnity in the
knowledge。 The sub…chief drew back the sliding doors； and all
bowed with much reverence； It was a simple shrine of unlacquered
wood； with a broad shelf at the back； on which there was a small
shrine containing a figure of the historical hero Yoshitsune； in a
suit of inlaid brass armour； some metal gohei； a pair of tarnished
brass candle…sticks； and a coloured Chinese picture representing a
junk。 Here； then； I was introduced to the great god of the
mountain Ainos。 There is something very pathetic in these people
keeping alive the memory of Yoshitsune； not on account of his
martial exploits； but simply because their tradition tells them
that he was kind to them。 They pulled the bell three times to
attract his attention； bowed three times； and made six libations of
sake； without which ceremony he cannot be approached。 They asked
me to worship their god； but when I declined on the ground that I
could only worship my own God； the Lord of Earth and Heaven； of the
dead and of the living； they were too courteous to press their
request。 As to Ito； it did not signify to him whether or not he
added another god to his already crowded Pantheon； and he
〃worshipped；〃 i。e。 bowed down； most willingly before the great hero
of his own； the conquering race。
While we were crowded there on the narrow ledge of the cliff；
Benri； the chief； arriveda square…built； broad…shouldered；
elderly man； strong as an ox； and very handsome； but his expression
is not pleasing； and his eyes are bloodshot with drinking。 The
others saluted him very respectfully； but I noticed then and since
that his manner is very arbitrary； and that a blow not infrequently
follows a word。 He had sent a message to his people by Ito that
they were not to answer any questions till he returned； but Ito
very tactfully neither gave it nor told me of it； and he was
displeased with the young men for having talked to me so much。 His
mother had evidently 〃peached。〃 I like him less than any of his
tribe。 He has some fine qualities； truthfulness among others； but
he has been contaminated by the four or five foreigners that he has
seen； and is a brute and a sot。 The hearts of his people are no
longer sad； for there is sake in every house to…night。
I。 L。 B。
LETTER XXXVII
Barrenness of Savage LifeIrreclaimable SavagesThe Aino
PhysiqueFemale Comeliness… Torture and OrnamentChild Life
Docility and Obedience。
BIRATORI； YEZO； August 24。
I expected to have written out my notes on the Ainos in the
comparative quiet and comfort of Sarufuto； but the delay in Benri's
return； and the non…arrival of the horses； have compelled me to
accept Aino hospitality for another night； which involves living on
tea and potatoes； for my stock of food is exhausted。 In some
respects I am glad to remain longer； as it enables me to go over my
stock of words； as well as my notes； with the chief； who is
intelligent and it is a pleasure to find that his statements
confirm those which have been made by the young men。 The glamour
which at first disguises the inherent barrenness of savage life has
had time to pass away； and I see it in all its nakedness as a life
not much raised above the necessities of animal existence； timid；
monotonous； barren of good； dark； dull； 〃without hope； and without
God in the world；〃 though at its lowest and worst considerably
higher and better than that of many other aboriginal races； and
must I say it？considerably higher and better than that of
thousands of the lapsed masses of our own great cities who are
baptized into Christ's name； and are laid at last in holy ground；
inasmuch as the Ainos are truthful； and； on the whole； chaste；
hospitable； honest； reverent； and kind to the aged。 Drinking；
their great vice； is not； as among us； in antagonism to their
religion； but is actually a part of it； and as such would be
exceptionally difficult to eradicate。
The early darkness has