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inferior yashikis； with the rest of the city。 This street；
marvellously thronged with pedestrians and kurumas； is the terminus
of a number of city 〃stage lines；〃 and twenty wretched…looking
covered waggons； with still more wretched ponies； were drawn up in
the middle； waiting for passengers。 Just there plenty of real
Tokiyo life is to be seen； for near a shrine of popular pilgrimage
there are always numerous places of amusement； innocent and
vicious； and the vicinity of this temple is full of restaurants；
tea…houses； minor theatres； and the resorts of dancing and singing
girls。
A broad…paved avenue； only open to foot passengers； leads from this
street to the grand entrance； a colossal two…storied double…roofed
mon； or gate； painted a rich dull red。 On either side of this
avenue are lines of boothswhich make a brilliant and lavish
display of their contentstoy…shops； shops for smoking apparatus；
and shops for the sale of ornamental hair…pins predominating。
Nearer the gate are booths for the sale of rosaries for prayer；
sleeve and bosom idols of brass and wood in small shrines； amulet
bags； representations of the jolly…looking Daikoku； the god of
wealth； the most popular of the household gods of Japan； shrines；
memorial tablets； cheap ex votos； sacred bells； candlesticks； and
incense…burners； and all the endless and various articles connected
with Buddhist devotion； public and private。 Every day is a
festival…day at Asakusa； the temple is dedicated to the most
popular of the great divinities； it is the most popular of
religious resorts； and whether he be Buddhist； Shintoist； or
Christian； no stranger comes to the capital without making a visit
to its crowded courts or a purchase at its tempting booths。 Not to
be an exception； I invested in bouquets of firework flowers； fifty
flowers for 2 sen； or 1d。； each of which； as it slowly consumes；
throws off fiery coruscations； shaped like the most beautiful of
snow crystals。 I was also tempted by small boxes at 2 sen each；
containing what look like little slips of withered pith； but which；
on being dropped into water； expand into trees and flowers。
Down a paved passage on the right there is an artificial river； not
over clean； with a bridge formed of one curved stone； from which a
flight of steps leads up to a small temple with a magnificent
bronze bell。 At the entrance several women were praying。 In the
same direction are two fine bronze Buddhas； seated figures； one
with clasped hands； the other holding a lotus； both with 〃The light
of the world〃 upon their brows。 The grand red gateway into the
actual temple courts has an extremely imposing effect； and besides；
it is the portal to the first great heathen temple that I have
seen； and it made me think of another temple whose courts were
equally crowded with buyers and sellers； and of a 〃whip of small
cords〃 in the hand of One who claimed both the temple and its
courts as His 〃Father's House。〃 Not with less righteous wrath
would the gentle founder of Buddhism purify the unsanctified courts
of Asakusa。 Hundreds of men； women； and children passed to and fro
through the gateway in incessant streams； and so they are passing
through every daylight hour of every day in the year； thousands
becoming tens of thousands on the great matsuri days； when the
mikoshi； or sacred car； containing certain symbols of the god； is
exhibited； and after sacred mimes and dances have been performed；
is carried in a magnificent； antique procession to the shore and
back again。 Under the gateway on either side are the Ni…o； or two
kings； gigantic figures in flowing robes； one red and with an open
mouth； representing the Yo； or male principle of Chinese
philosophy； the other green and with the mouth firmly closed；
representing the In； or female principle。 They are hideous
creatures； with protruding eyes； and faces and figures distorted
and corrupted into a high degree of exaggerated and convulsive
action。 These figures guard the gates of most of the larger
temples； and small prints of them are pasted over the doors of
houses to protect them against burglars。 Attached to the grating
in front were a number of straw sandals； hung up by people who pray
that their limbs may be as muscular as those of the Ni…o。
Passing through this gate we were in the temple court proper； and
in front of the temple itself； a building of imposing height and
size； of a dull red colour； with a grand roof of heavy iron grey
tiles； with a sweeping curve which gives grace as well as grandeur。
The timbers and supports are solid and of great size； but； in
common with all Japanese temples； whether Buddhist or Shinto； the
edifice is entirely of wood。 A broad flight of narrow； steep；
brass…bound steps lead up to the porch； which is formed by a number
of circular pillars supporting a very lofty roof； from which paper
lanterns ten feet long are hanging。 A gallery runs from this round
the temple； under cover of the eaves。 There is an outer temple；
unmatted； and an inner one behind a grating； into which those who
choose to pay for the privilege of praying in comparative privacy；
or of having prayers said for them by the priests； can pass。
In the outer temple the noise； confusion； and perpetual motion； are
bewildering。 Crowds on clattering clogs pass in and out； pigeons；
of which hundreds live in the porch； fly over your head； and the
whirring of their wings mingles with the tinkling of bells； the
beating of drums and gongs； the high…pitched drone of the priests；
the low murmur of prayers； the rippling laughter of girls； the
harsh voices of men； and the general buzz of a multitude。 There is
very much that is highly grotesque at first sight。 Men squat on
the floor selling amulets； rosaries； printed prayers； incense
sticks； and other wares。 Ex votos of all kinds hang on the wall
and on the great round pillars。 Many of these are rude Japanese
pictures。 The subject of one is the blowing…up of a steamer in the
Sumidagawa with the loss of 100 lives； when the donor was saved by
the grace of Kwan…non。 Numbers of memorials are from people who
offered up prayers here； and have been restored to health or
wealth。 Others are from junk men whose lives have been in peril。
There are scores of men's queues and a few dusty braids of women's
hair offered on account of vows or prayers； usually for sick
relatives； and among them all； on the left hand； are a large mirror
in a gaudily gilt frame and a framed picture of the P。 M。 S。 China！
Above this incongruous collection are splendid wood carvings and
frescoes of angels； among which the pigeons find a home free from
molestation。
Near the entrance there is a superb incense…burner in the most
massive style of the older bronzes； with a mythical beast rampant
upon it； and in high relief round it the Japanese signs of the
zodiacthe rat； ox； tiger； rabbit； dragon； serpent； horse； goat；
monkey； cock； dog； and hog。 Clouds of incense rise continually
from the perforations round the edge； and a black…toothed woman who
keeps it burning is perpetually receiving small coins from the
worshippers； who then pass on to the front of the altar to pray。
The high altar； and indeed all that I should regard as properly the
temple； are protected by a screen of coarsely…netted iron wire。
This holy of holies is full of shrines and gods； gigantic
candlesticks； colossal lotuses of gilded silver； offerings； lamps；
lacquer； litany books； gongs； drums； bells； and all the mysterious
symbols of a faith which is a system of morals and metaphysics to
the educated and initiated； and an idolatrous superstition to the
masses。 In this interior the light was dim； the lamps burned low；
the atmosphere was heavy with incense； and amidst its fumes shaven
priests in chasubles and stoles moved noiselessly over the soft
matting round the high altar on which Kwan…non is enshrined；
lighting candles； striking bells； and murmuring prayers。 In front
of the screen is the treasury； a wooden chest 14 feet by 10； with a
deep slit； into which all the worshippers cast copper coins with a
ceaseless clinking sound。
There； too； they pray； if that can be called prayer which
frequently consists only in the repetition of an uncomprehended
phrase in a foreign tongue； bowing the head； raising the hands and
rubbing them； murmuring a few words； telling beads； clapping the
hands； bowing again； and then passing out or on to another shrine
to repeat the same form。 Merchants in silk clothing； soldiers in
shabby French uniforms； farmers； coolies in 〃vile raiment；〃
mothers； maidens； swells in European clothes； even the samurai
policemen； bow before the goddess of mercy。 Most of the prayers
were offered rapidly； a mere momentary interlude in the gurgle of
careless talk； and without a pretence of reverence； but some of the
petitioners obviously brought real woes in simple 〃faith。〃
In one shrine there is a large idol； spotted all over with pellets
of paper； and hundreds of these are sticking to the wire netting
which protects him。 A worshipper writes his petition on paper； or；
better still； has it written for him by the priest； chews it to a
pulp； and spits it at the divinity。 If