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rocks were tinged with gold for a foot or so above the sea by a
delicate species of fucus。 In the exquisite inlet where I spent
the night； trees and trailers drooped into the water and were
mirrored in it； their green； heavy shadows lying sharp against the
sunset gold and pink of the rest of the bay； log canoes； with
planks laced upon their gunwales to heighten them； were drawn upon
a tiny beach of golden sand； and in the shadiest cove； moored to a
tree； an antique and much…carved junk was 〃floating double。〃
Wooded； rocky knolls； with Aino huts； the vermilion peaks of the
volcano of Usu…taki redder than ever in the sinking sun； a few
Ainos mending their nets； a few more spreading edible seaweed out
to dry； a single canoe breaking the golden mirror of the cove by
its noiseless motion； a few Aino loungers； with their 〃mild…eyed；
melancholy〃 faces and quiet ways suiting the quiet evening scene；
the unearthly sweetness of a temple bellthis was all； and yet it
was the loveliest picture I have seen in Japan。
In spite of Ito's remonstrances and his protestations that an
exceptionally good supper would be spoiled； I left my rat…haunted
room； with its tarnished gilding and precarious fusuma； to get the
last of the pink and lemon…coloured glory； going up the staircase
in the stone…faced embankment； and up a broad； well…paved avenue；
to a large temple； within whose open door I sat for some time
absolutely alone； and in a wonderful stillness； for the sweet…toned
bell which vainly chimes for vespers amidst this bear…worshipping
population had ceased。 This temple was the first symptom of
Japanese religion that I remember to have seen since leaving
Hakodate； and worshippers have long since ebbed away from its shady
and moss…grown courts。 Yet it stands there to protest for the
teaching of the great Hindu； and generations of Aino heathen pass
away one after another； and still its bronze bell tolls； and its
altar lamps are lit； and incense burns for ever before Buddha。 The
characters on the great bell of this temple are said to be the same
lines which are often graven on temple bells； and to possess the
dignity of twenty…four centuries：
〃All things are transient；
They being born must die；
And being born are dead；
And being dead are glad
To be at rest。〃
The temple is very handsome； the baldachino is superb； and the
bronzes and brasses on the altar are specially fine。 A broad ray
of sunlight streamed in； crossed the matted floor； and fell full
upon the figure of Sakya…muni in his golden shrine； and just at
that moment a shaven priest； in silk…brocaded vestments of faded
green； silently passed down the stream of light； and lit the
candles on the altar； and fresh incense filled the temple with a
drowsy fragrance。 It was a most impressive picture。 His curiosity
evidently shortened his devotions； and he came and asked me where I
had been and where I was going； to which； of course； I replied in
excellent Japanese； and then stuck fast。
Along the paved avenue； besides the usual stone trough for holy
water； there are on one side the thousand…armed Kwan…non； a very
fine relief； and on the other a Buddha； throned on the eternal
lotus blossom； with an iron staff； much resembling a crozier； in
his hand； and that eternal apathy on his face which is the highest
hope of those who hope at all。 I went through a wood； where there
are some mournful groups of graves on the hillside； and from the
temple came the sweet sound of the great bronze bell and the beat
of the big drum； and then； more faintly； the sound of the little
bell and drum； with which the priest accompanies his ceaseless
repetition of a phrase in the dead tongue of a distant land。 There
is an infinite pathos about the lonely temple in its splendour； the
absence of even possible worshippers； and the large population of
Ainos； sunk in yet deeper superstitions than those which go to make
up popular Buddhism。 I sat on a rock by the bay till the last pink
glow faded from Usu…taki and the last lemon stain from the still
water； and a beautiful crescent； which hung over the wooded hill；
had set； and the heavens blazed with stars：
〃Ten thousand stars were in the sky；
Ten thousand in the sea；
And every wave with dimpled face；
That leapt upon the air；
Had caught a star in its embrace；
And held it trembling there。〃
The loneliness of Usu Bay is something wonderfula house full of
empty rooms falling to decay； with only two men in itone Japanese
house among 500 savages； yet it was the only one in which I have
slept in which they bolted neither the amado nor the gate。 During
the night the amado fell out of the worn…out grooves with a crash；
knocking down the shoji； which fell on me； and rousing Ito； who
rushed into my room half…asleep； with a vague vision of blood…
thirsty Ainos in his mind。 I then learned what I have been very
stupid not to have learned before； that in these sliding wooden
shutters there is a small door through which one person can creep
at a time called the jishindo； or 〃earthquake door；〃 because it
provides an exit during the alarm of an earthquake； in case of the
amado sticking in their grooves； or their bolts going wrong。 I
believe that such a door exists in all Japanese houses。
The next morning was as beautiful as the previous evening； rose and
gold instead of gold and pink。 Before the sun was well up I
visited a number of the Aino lodges； saw the bear； and the chief；
who； like all the rest； is a monogamist； and； after breakfast； at
my request； some of the old men came to give me such information as
they had。 These venerable elders sat cross…legged in the verandah；
the house…master's son； who kindly acted as interpreter； squatting；
Japanese fashion； at the side； and about thirty Ainos； mostly
women； with infants； sitting behind。 I spent about two hours in
going over the same ground as at Biratori； and also went over the
words； and got some more； including some synonyms。 The click of
the ts before the ch at the beginning of a word is strongly marked
among these Ainos。 Some of their customs differ slightly from
those of their brethren of the interior； specially as to the period
of seclusion after a death； the non…allowance of polygamy to the
chief； and the manner of killing the bear at the annual festival。
Their ideas of metempsychosis are more definite； but this； I think；
is to be accounted for by the influence and proximity of Buddhism。
They spoke of the bear as their chief god； and next the sun and
fire。 They said that they no longer worship the wolf； and that
though they call the volcano and many other things kamoi； or god；
they do not worship them。 I ascertained beyond doubt that worship
with them means simply making libations of sake and 〃drinking to
the god；〃 and that it is unaccompanied by petitions； or any vocal
or mental act。
These Ainos are as dark as the people of southern Spain； and very
hairy。 Their expression is earnest and pathetic； and when they
smiled； as they did when I could not pronounce their words； their
faces had a touching sweetness which was quite beautiful； and
European； not Asiatic。 Their own impression is that they are now
increasing in numbers after diminishing for many years。 I left Usu
sleeping in the loveliness of an autumn noon with great regret。 No
place that I have seen has fascinated me so much。
LETTER XL（Continued）
The Sea…shoreA 〃Hairy Aino〃A Horse FightThe Horses of Yezo
〃Bad Mountains〃A Slight AccidentMagnificent SceneryA Bleached
Halting…PlaceA Musty RoomAino 〃Good…breeding。〃
A charge of 3 sen per ri more for the horses for the next stage；
because there were such 〃bad mountains to cross；〃 prepared me for
what followedmany miles of the worst road for horses I ever saw。
I should not have complained if they had charged double the price。
As an almost certain consequence； it was one of the most
picturesque routes I have ever travelled。 For some distance；
however； it runs placidly along by the sea…shore； on which big；
blue； foam…crested rollers were disporting themselves noisily； and
passes through several Aino hamlets； and the Aino village of Abuta；
with sixty houses； rather a prosperous…looking place； where the
cultivation was considerably more careful； and the people possessed
a number of horses。 Several of the houses were surrounded by
bears' skulls grinning from between the forked tops of high poles；
and there was a well…grown bear ready for his doom and apotheosis。
In nearly all the houses a woman was weaving bark…cloth； with the
hook which holds the web fixed into the ground several feet outside
the house。 At a deep river called the Nopkobets； which emerges
from the mountains close to the sea； we were ferried by an Aino
completely covered with hair； which on his shoulders was wavy like
that of a retriever； and rendered clothing quite needless either
for covering or warmth。 A wavy； black beard rippled nearly to his
waist over his furry chest； and； with his black locks hanging in
masses over his shoulders； he would have looked a thorough savage
had it not been for the exceeding sweetness of his smile and eyes。
The Volcano Bay Ainos are far more hairy than t