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pulp； and spits it at the divinity。 If； having been well aimed； it
passes through the wire and sticks； it is a good omen； if it lodges
in the netting the prayer has probably been unheard。 The Ni…o and
some of the gods outside the temple are similarly disfigured。 On
the left there is a shrine with a screen； to the bars of which
innumerable prayers have been tied。 On the right； accessible to
all； sits Binzuru； one of Buddha's original sixteen disciples。 His
face and appearance have been calm and amiable； with something of
the quiet dignity of an elderly country gentleman of the reign of
George III。； but he is now worn and defaced； and has not much more
of eyes； nose； and mouth than the Sphinx； and the polished； red
lacquer has disappeared from his hands and feet； for Binzuru is a
great medicine god； and centuries of sick people have rubbed his
face and limbs； and then have rubbed their own。 A young woman went
up to him； rubbed the back of his neck； and then rubbed her own。
Then a modest…looking girl； leading an ancient woman with badly
inflamed eyelids and paralysed arms； rubbed his eyelids； and then
gently stroked the closed eyelids of the crone。 Then a coolie；
with a swelled knee； applied himself vigorously to Binzuru's knee；
and more gently to his own。 Remember； this is the great temple of
the populace； and 〃not many rich； not many noble； not many mighty；〃
enter its dim； dirty； crowded halls。 ｛5｝
But the great temple to Kwan…non is not the only sight of Asakusa。
Outside it are countless shrines and temples； huge stone Amainu； or
heavenly dogs； on rude blocks of stone； large cisterns of stone and
bronze with and without canopies； containing water for the
ablutions of the worshippers； cast iron Amainu on hewn stone
pedestalsa recent giftbronze and stone lanterns； a stone
prayer…wheel in a stone post； figures of Buddha with the serene
countenance of one who rests from his labours； stone idols； on
which devotees have pasted slips of paper inscribed with prayers；
with sticks of incense rising out of the ashes of hundreds of
former sticks smouldering before them； blocks of hewn stone with
Chinese and Sanskrit inscriptions； an eight…sided temple in which
are figures of the 〃Five Hundred Disciples〃 of Buddha； a temple
with the roof and upper part of the walls richly coloured； the
circular Shinto mirror in an inner shrine； a bronze treasury
outside with a bell； which is rung to attract the god's attention；
a striking； five…storied pagoda； with much red lacquer； and the
ends of the roof…beams very boldly carved； its heavy eaves fringed
with wind bells； and its uppermost roof terminating in a graceful
copper spiral of great height； with the 〃sacred pearl〃 surrounded
by flames for its finial。 Near it； as near most temples； is an
upright frame of plain wood with tablets； on which are inscribed
the names of donors to the temple； and the amount of their gifts。
There is a handsome stone…floored temple to the south…east of the
main building； to which we were the sole visitors。 It is lofty and
very richly decorated。 In the centre is an octagonal revolving
room； or rather shrine； of rich red lacquer most gorgeously
ornamented。 It rests on a frame of carved black lacquer； and has a
lacquer gallery running round it； on which several richly decorated
doors open。 On the application of several shoulders to this
gallery the shrine rotates。 It is； in fact； a revolving library of
the Buddhist Scriptures； and a single turn is equivalent to a
single pious perusal of them。 It is an exceedingly beautiful
specimen of ancient decorative lacquer work。 At the back part of
the temple is a draped brass figure of Buddha； with one hand
raiseda dignified piece of casting。 All the Buddhas have Hindoo
features； and the graceful drapery and oriental repose which have
been imported from India contrast singularly with the grotesque
extravagances of the indigenous Japanese conceptions。 In the same
temple are four monstrously extravagant figures carved in wood；
life…size； with clawed toes on their feet； and two great fangs in
addition to the teeth in each mouth。 The heads of all are
surrounded with flames； and are backed by golden circlets。 They
are extravagantly clothed in garments which look as if they were
agitated by a violent wind； they wear helmets and partial suits of
armour； and hold in their right hands something between a monarch's
sceptre and a priest's staff。 They have goggle eyes and open
mouths； and their faces are in distorted and exaggerated action。
One； painted bright red； tramples on a writhing devil painted
bright pink； another； painted emerald green； tramples on a sea…
green devil； an indigo blue monster tramples on a sky…blue fiend；
and a bright pink monster treads under his clawed feet a flesh…
coloured demon。 I cannot give you any idea of the hideousness of
their aspect； and was much inclined to sympathise with the more
innocent…looking fiends whom they were maltreating。 They occur
very frequently in Buddhist temples； and are said by some to be
assistant…torturers to Yemma； the lord of hell； and are called by
others 〃The gods of the Four Quarters。〃
The temple grounds are a most extraordinary sight。 No English fair
in the palmiest days of fairs ever presented such an array of
attractions。 Behind the temple are archery galleries in numbers；
where girls； hardly so modest…looking as usual； smile and smirk；
and bring straw…coloured tea in dainty cups； and tasteless
sweetmeats on lacquer trays； and smoke their tiny pipes； and offer
you bows of slender bamboo strips； two feet long； with rests for
the arrows； and tiny cherry…wood arrows； bone…tipped； and feathered
red； blue； and white； and smilingly； but quite unobtrusively； ask
you to try your skill or luck at a target hanging in front of a
square drum； flanked by red cushions。 A click； a boom； or a hardly
audible 〃thud；〃 indicate the result。 Nearly all the archers were
grown…up men； and many of them spend hours at a time in this
childish sport。
All over the grounds booths with the usual charcoal fire； copper
boiler； iron kettle of curious workmanship； tiny cups； fragrant
aroma of tea； and winsome； graceful girls； invite you to drink and
rest； and more solid but less inviting refreshments are also to be
had。 Rows of pretty paper lanterns decorate all the stalls。 Then
there are photograph galleries； mimic tea…gardens； tableaux in
which a large number of groups of life…size figures with
appropriate scenery are put into motion by a creaking wheel of
great size； matted lounges for rest； stands with saucers of rice；
beans and peas for offerings to the gods； the pigeons； and the two
sacred horses； Albino ponies； with pink eyes and noses； revoltingly
greedy creatures； eating all day long and still craving for more。
There are booths for singing and dancing； and under one a
professional story…teller was reciting to a densely packed crowd
one of the old； popular stories of crime。 There are booths where
for a few rin you may have the pleasure of feeding some very ugly
and greedy apes； or of watching mangy monkeys which have been
taught to prostrate themselves Japanese fashion。
This letter is far too long； but to pass over Asakusa and its
novelties when the impression of them is fresh would be to omit one
of the most interesting sights in Japan。 On the way back we passed
red mail carts like those in London； a squadron of cavalry in
European uniforms and with European saddles； and the carriage of
the Minister of Marine； an English brougham with a pair of horses
in English harness； and an escort of six troopersa painful
precaution adopted since the political assassination of Okubo； the
Home Minister； three weeks ago。 So the old and the new in this
great city contrast with and jostle each other。 The Mikado and his
ministers； naval and military officers and men； the whole of the
civil officials and the police； wear European clothes； as well as a
number of dissipated…looking young men who aspire to represent
〃young Japan。〃 Carriages and houses in English style； with
carpets； chairs； and tables； are becoming increasingly numerous；
and the bad taste which regulates the purchase of foreign
furnishings is as marked as the good taste which everywhere
presides over the adornment of the houses in purely Japanese style。
Happily these expensive and unbecoming innovations have scarcely
affected female dress； and some ladies who adopted our fashions
have given them up because of their discomfort and manifold
difficulties and complications。
The Empress on State occasions appears in scarlet satin hakama； and
flowing robes； and she and the Court ladies invariably wear the
national costume。 I have only seen two ladies in European dress；
and this was at a dinner…party here； and they were the wives of Mr。
Mori； the go…ahead Vice…Minister for Foreign Affairs； and of the
Japanese Consul at Hong Kong； and both by long residence abroad
have learned to wear it with ease。 The wife of Saigo； the Minister
of Education； called one day in an exquisite Japanese dress of
dove…coloured silk crepe； with a pale pink under…dress of the same
material； which showed a little at the