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display in the two…fold struggle。 The difficulty of communication with
the outer world; either by land where the roads are impassable; or by
sea where none but tiny boats can thread their way through the
maritime defiles that guard the entrance to the bay; hinder these
people from growing rich by the sale of their timber。 It would cost
enormous sums to either blast a channel out to sea or construct a way
to the interior。 The roads from Christiana to Trondhjem all turn
toward the Strom…fiord; and cross the Sieg by a bridge some score of
miles above its fall into the bay。 The country to the north; between
Jarvis and Trondhjem; is covered with impenetrable forests; while to
the south the Falberg is nearly as much separated from Christiana by
inaccessible precipices。 The village of Jarvis might perhaps have
communicated with the interior of Norway and Sweden by the river Sieg;
but to do this and to be thus brought into contact with civilization;
the Strom…fiord needed the presence of a man of genius。 Such a man did
actually appear there;a poet; a Swede of great religious fervor; who
died admiring; even reverencing this region as one of the noblest
works of the Creator。
Minds endowed by study with an inward sight; and whose quick
perceptions bring before the soul; as though painted on a canvas; the
contrasting scenery of this universe; will now apprehend the general
features of the Strom…fiord。 They alone; perhaps; can thread their way
through the tortuous channels of the reef; or flee with the battling
waves to the everlasting rebuff of the Falberg whose white peaks
mingle with the vaporous clouds of the pearl…gray sky; or watch with
delight the curving sheet of waters; or hear the rushing of the Sieg
as it hangs for an instant in long fillets and then falls over a
picturesque abatis of noble trees toppled confusedly together;
sometimes upright; sometimes half…sunken beneath the rocks。 It may be
that such minds alone can dwell upon the smiling scenes nestling among
the lower hills of Jarvis; where the luscious Northern vegetables
spring up in families; in myriads; where the white birches bend;
graceful as maidens; where colonnades of beeches rear their boles
mossy with the growth of centuries; where shades of green contrast;
and white clouds float amid the blackness of the distant pines; and
tracts of many…tinted crimson and purple shrubs are shaded endlessly;
in short; where blend all colors; all perfumes of a flora whose
wonders are still ignored。 Widen the boundaries of this limited
ampitheatre; spring upward to the clouds; lose yourself among the
rocks where the seals are lying and even then your thought cannot
compass the wealth of beauty nor the poetry of this Norwegian coast。
Can your thought be as vast as the ocean that bounds it? as weird as
the fantastic forms drawn by these forests; these clouds; these
shadows; these changeful lights?
Do you see above the meadows on that lowest slope which undulates
around the higher hills of Jarvis two or three hundred houses roofed
with 〃noever;〃 a sort of thatch made of birch…bark;frail houses;
long and low; looking like silk…worms on a mulberry…leaf tossed hither
by the winds? Above these humble; peaceful dwellings stands the
church; built with a simplicity in keeping with the poverty of the
villagers。 A graveyard surrounds the chancel; and a little farther on
you see the parsonage。 Higher up; on a projection of the mountain is a
dwelling…house; the only one of stone; for which reason the
inhabitants of the village call it 〃the Swedish Castle。〃 In fact; a
wealthy Swede settled in Jarvis about thirty years before this history
begins; and did his best to ameliorate its condition。 This little
house; certainly not a castle; built with the intention of leading the
inhabitants to build others like it; was noticeable for its solidity
and for the wall that inclosed it; a rare thing in Norway where;
notwithstanding the abundance of stone; wood alone is used for all
fences; even those of fields。 This Swedish house; thus protected
against the climate; stood on rising ground in the centre of an
immense courtyard。 The windows were sheltered by those projecting
pent…house roofs supported by squared trunks of trees which give so
patriarchal an air to Northern dwellings。 From beneath them the eye
could see the savage nudity of the Falberg; or compare the infinitude
of the open sea with the tiny drop of water in the foaming fiord; the
ear could hear the flowing of the Sieg; whose white sheet far away
looked motionless as it fell into its granite cup edged for miles
around with glaciers;in short; from this vantage ground the whole
landscape whereon our simple yet superhuman drama was about to be
enacted could be seen and noted。
The winter of 1799…1800 was one of the most severe ever known to
Europeans。 The Norwegian sea was frozen in all the fiords; where; as a
usual thing; the violence of the surf kept the ice from forming。 A
wind; whose effects were like those of the Spanish levanter; swept the
ice of the Strom…fiord; driving the snow to the upper end of the gulf。
Seldom indeed could the people of Jarvis see the mirror of frozen
waters reflecting the colors of the sky; a wondrous site in the bosom
of these mountains when all other aspects of nature are levelled
beneath successive sheets of snow; and crests and valleys are alike
mere folds of the vast mantle flung by winter across a landscape at
once so mournfully dazzling and so monotonous。 The falling volume of
the Sieg; suddenly frozen; formed an immense arcade beneath which the
inhabitants might have crossed under shelter from the blast had any
dared to risk themselves inland。 But the dangers of every step away
from their own surroundings kept even the boldest hunters in their
homes; afraid lest the narrow paths along the precipices; the clefts
and fissures among the rocks; might be unrecognizable beneath the
snow。
Thus it was that no human creature gave life to the white desert where
Boreas reigned; his voice alone resounding at distant intervals。 The
sky; nearly always gray; gave tones of polished steel to the ice of
the fiord。 Perchance some ancient eider…duck crossed the expanse;
trusting to the warm down beneath which dream; in other lands; the
luxurious rich; little knowing of the dangers through which their
luxury has come to them。 Like the Bedouin of the desert who darts
alone across the sands of Africa; the bird is neither seen nor heard;
the torpid atmosphere; deprived of its electrical conditions; echoes
neither the whirr of its wings nor its joyous notes。 Besides; what
human eye was strong enough to bear the glitter of those pinnacles
adorned with sparkling crystals; or the sharp reflections of the snow;
iridescent on the summits in the rays of a pallid sun which
infrequently appeared; like a dying man seeking to make known that he
still lives。 Often; when the flocks of gray clouds; driven in
squadrons athwart the mountains and among the tree…tops; hid the sky
with their triple veils Earth; lacking the celestial lights; lit
herself by herself。
Here; then; we meet the majesty of Cold; seated eternally at the pole
in that regal silence which is the attribute of all absolute monarchy。
Every extreme principle carries with it an appearance of negation and
the symptoms of death; for is not life the struggle of two forces?
Here in this Northern nature nothing lived。 One sole powerthe
unproductive power of icereigned unchallenged。 The roar of the open
sea no longer reached the deaf; dumb inlet; where during one short
season of the year Nature made haste to produce the slender harvests
necessary for the food of the patient people。 A few tall pine…trees
lifted their black pyramids garlanded with snow; and the form of their
long branches and depending shoots completed the mourning garments of
those solemn heights。
Each household gathered in its chimney…corner; in houses carefully
closed from the outer air; and well supplied with biscuit; melted
butter; dried fish; and other provisions laid in for the seven…months
winter。 The very smoke of these dwellings was hardly seen; half…hidden
as they were beneath the snow; against the weight of which they were
protected by long planks reaching from the roof and fastened at some
distance to solid blocks on the ground; forming a covered way around
each building。
During these terrible winter months the women spun and dyed the
woollen stuffs and the linen fabrics with which they clothed their
families; while the men read; or fell into those endless meditations
which have given birth to so many profound theories; to the mystic
dreams of the North; to its beliefs; to its studies (so full and so
complete in one science; at least; sounded as with a plummet); to its
manners and its morals; half…monastic; which force the soul to react
and feed upon itself and make the Norwegian peasant a being apart