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vailima letters-第19章

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forward; and pick his way by hair's…breadths。



The expedition returned to Vailima in time to receive the 

visit of the R。 C。 Bishop。  He is a superior man; much above 

the average of priests。





THURSDAY。





Yesterday the same expedition set forth to the southward by 

what is known as Carruthers' Road。  At a fallen tree which 

completely blocks the way; the main body was as before left 

behind; and the advance guard of one now proceeded with the 

exploration。  At the great tree known as MEPI TREE; after 

Maben the surveyor; the expedition struck forty yards due 

west till it struck the top of a steep bank which it 

descended。  The whole bottom of the ravine is filled with 

sharp lava blocks quite unrolled and very difficult and 

dangerous to walk among; no water in the course; scarce any 

sign of water。  And yet surely water must have made this bold 

cutting in the plateau。  And if so; why is the lava sharp?  

My science gave out; but I could not but think it ominous and 

volcanic。  The course of the stream was tortuous; but with a 

resultant direction a little by west of north; the sides the 

whole way exceeding steep; the expedition buried under 

fathoms of foliage。  Presently water appeared in the bottom; 

a good quantity; perhaps thirty or forty cubic feet; with 

pools and waterfalls。  A tree that stands all along the banks 

here must be very fond of water; its roots lie close…packed 

down the stream; like hanks of guts; so as to make often a 

corrugated walk; each root ending in a blunt tuft of 

filaments; plainly to drink water。  Twice there came in small 

tributaries from the left or western side … the whole plateau 

having a smartish inclination to the east; one of the 

tributaries in a handsome little web of silver hanging in the 

forest。  Twice I was startled by birds; one that barked like 

a dog; another that whistled loud ploughman's signals; so 

that I vow I was thrilled; and thought I had fallen among 

runaway blacks; and regretted my cutlass which I had lost and 

left behind while taking bearings。  A good many fishes in the 

brook; and many cray…fish; one of the last with a queer glow…

worm head。  Like all our brooks; the water is pure as air; 

and runs over red stones like rubies。  The foliage along both 

banks very thick and high; the place close; the walking 

exceedingly laborious。  By the time the expedition reached 

the fork; it was felt exceedingly questionable whether the 

MORAL of the force were sufficiently good to undertake more 

extended operations。  A halt was called; the men refreshed 

with water and a bath; and it was decided at a drumhead 

council of war to continue the descent of the Embassy Water 

straight for Vailima; whither the expedition returned; in 

rather poor condition; and wet to the waist; about 4。 P。M。



Thus in two days the two main watercourses of this country 

have been pretty thoroughly explored; and I conceive my 

instructions fully carried out。  The main body of the second 

expedition was brought back by another officer despatched for 

that purpose from Vailima。  Casualties: one horse wounded; 

one man bruised; no deaths … as yet; but the bruised man 

feels to…day as if his case was mighty serious。





DEC。 25; '91。





Your note with a very despicable bulletin of health arrived 

only yesterday; the mail being a day behind。  It contained 

also the excellent TIMES article; which was a sight for sore 

eyes。  I am still TABOO; the blessed Germans will have none 

of me; and I only hope they may enjoy the TIMES article。  

'Tis my revenge!  I wish you had sent the letter too; as I 

have no copy; and do not even know what I wrote the last day; 

with a bad headache; and the mail going out。  However; it 

must have been about right; for the TIMES article was in the 

spirit I wished to arouse。  I hope we can get rid of the man 

before it is too late。  He has set the natives to war; but 

the natives; by God's blessing; do not want to fight; and I 

think it will fizzle out … no thanks to the man who tried to 

start it。  But I did not mean to drift into these politics; 

rather to tell you what I have done since I last wrote。



Well; I worked away at my History for a while; and only got 

one chapter done; no doubt this spate of work is pretty low 

now; and will be soon dry; but; God bless you; what a lot I 

have accomplished; WRECKER done; BEACH OF FALESA done; half 

the HISTORY: C'EST ETONNANT。  (I hear from Burlingame; by the 

way; that he likes the end of the WRECKER; 'tis certainly a 

violent; dark yarn with interesting; plain turns of human 

nature); then Lloyd and I went down to live in Haggard's 

rooms; where Fanny presently joined us。  Haggard's rooms are 

in a strange old building … old for Samoa; and has the effect 

of the antique like some strange monastery; I would tell you 

more of it; but I think I'm going to use it in a tale。  The 

annexe close by had its door sealed; poor Dowdney lost at sea 

in a schooner。  The place is haunted。  The vast empty sheds; 

the empty store; the airless; hot; long; low rooms; the claps 

of wind that set everything flying … a strange uncanny house 

to spend Christmas in。





JAN。 1ST; '92。





For a day or two I have sat close and wrought hard at the 

HISTORY; and two more chapters are all but done。  About 

thirty pages should go by this mail; which is not what should 

be; but all I could overtake。  Will any one ever read it?  I 

fancy not; people don't read history for reading; but for 

education and display … and who desires education in the 

history of Samoa; with no population; no past; no future; or 

the exploits of Mataafa; Malietoa; and Consul Knappe?  

Colkitto and Galasp are a trifle to it。  Well; it can't be 

helped; and it must be done; and; better or worse; it's 

capital fun。  There are two to whom I have not been kind … 

German Consul Becker and English Captain Hand; R。N。



On Dec。 30th I rode down with Belle to go to (if you please) 

the Fancy Ball。  When I got to the beach; I found the 

barometer was below 29 degrees; the wind still in the east 

and steady; but a huge offensive continent of clouds and 

vapours forming to leeward。  It might be a hurricane; I dared 

not risk getting caught away from my work; and; leaving 

Belle; returned at once to Vailima。  Next day … yesterday … 

it was a tearer; we had storm shutters up; I sat in my room 

and wrote by lamplight … ten pages; if you please; seven of 

them draft; and some of these compiled from as many as seven 

different and conflicting authorities; so that was a brave 

day's work。  About two a huge tree fell within sixty paces of 

our house; a little after; a second went; and we sent out 

boys with axes and cut down a third; which was too near the 

house; and buckling like a fishing rod。  At dinner we had the 

front door closed and shuttered; the back door open; the lamp 

lit。  The boys in the cook…house were all out at the cook…

house door; where we could see them looking in and smiling。  

Lauilo and Faauma waited on us with smiles。  The excitement 

was delightful。  Some very violent squalls came as we sat 

there; and every one rejoiced; it was impossible to help it; 

a soul of putty had to sing。  All night it blew; the roof was 

continually sounding under missiles; in the morning the 

verandahs were half full of branches torn from the forest。  

There was a last very wild squall about six; the rain; like a 

thick white smoke; flying past the house in volleys; and as 

swift; it seemed; as rifle balls; all with a strange; 

strident hiss; such as I have only heard before at sea; and; 

indeed; thought to be a marine phenomenon。  Since then the 

wind has been falling with a few squalls; mostly rain。  But 

our road is impassable for horses; we hear a schooner has 

been wrecked and some native houses blown down in Apia; where 

Belle is still and must remain a prisoner。  Lucky I returned 

while I could!  But the great good is this; much bread…fruit 

and bananas have been destroyed; if this be general through 

the islands; famine will be imminent; and WHOEVER BLOWS THE 

COALS; THERE CAN BE NO WAR。  Do I then prefer a famine to a 

war? you ask。  Not always; but just now。  I am sure the 

natives do not want a war; I am sure a war would benefit no 

one but the white officials; and I believe we can easily meet 

the famine … or at least that it can be met。  That would give 

our officials a legitimate opportunity to cover their past 

errors。





JAN。 2ND。





I woke this morning to find the blow quite ended。  The heaven 

was all a mottled gray; even the east quite colourless; the 

downward slope of the island veiled in wafts of vapour; blue 

like smoke; not a leaf stirred on the tallest tree; only; 

three miles away below me on the barrier reef; I could see 

the individual breakers curl and fall; and hear their 

conjunct r
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