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forward; and pick his way by hair's…breadths。
The expedition returned to Vailima in time to receive the
visit of the R。 C。 Bishop。 He is a superior man; much above
the average of priests。
THURSDAY。
Yesterday the same expedition set forth to the southward by
what is known as Carruthers' Road。 At a fallen tree which
completely blocks the way; the main body was as before left
behind; and the advance guard of one now proceeded with the
exploration。 At the great tree known as MEPI TREE; after
Maben the surveyor; the expedition struck forty yards due
west till it struck the top of a steep bank which it
descended。 The whole bottom of the ravine is filled with
sharp lava blocks quite unrolled and very difficult and
dangerous to walk among; no water in the course; scarce any
sign of water。 And yet surely water must have made this bold
cutting in the plateau。 And if so; why is the lava sharp?
My science gave out; but I could not but think it ominous and
volcanic。 The course of the stream was tortuous; but with a
resultant direction a little by west of north; the sides the
whole way exceeding steep; the expedition buried under
fathoms of foliage。 Presently water appeared in the bottom;
a good quantity; perhaps thirty or forty cubic feet; with
pools and waterfalls。 A tree that stands all along the banks
here must be very fond of water; its roots lie close…packed
down the stream; like hanks of guts; so as to make often a
corrugated walk; each root ending in a blunt tuft of
filaments; plainly to drink water。 Twice there came in small
tributaries from the left or western side … the whole plateau
having a smartish inclination to the east; one of the
tributaries in a handsome little web of silver hanging in the
forest。 Twice I was startled by birds; one that barked like
a dog; another that whistled loud ploughman's signals; so
that I vow I was thrilled; and thought I had fallen among
runaway blacks; and regretted my cutlass which I had lost and
left behind while taking bearings。 A good many fishes in the
brook; and many cray…fish; one of the last with a queer glow…
worm head。 Like all our brooks; the water is pure as air;
and runs over red stones like rubies。 The foliage along both
banks very thick and high; the place close; the walking
exceedingly laborious。 By the time the expedition reached
the fork; it was felt exceedingly questionable whether the
MORAL of the force were sufficiently good to undertake more
extended operations。 A halt was called; the men refreshed
with water and a bath; and it was decided at a drumhead
council of war to continue the descent of the Embassy Water
straight for Vailima; whither the expedition returned; in
rather poor condition; and wet to the waist; about 4。 P。M。
Thus in two days the two main watercourses of this country
have been pretty thoroughly explored; and I conceive my
instructions fully carried out。 The main body of the second
expedition was brought back by another officer despatched for
that purpose from Vailima。 Casualties: one horse wounded;
one man bruised; no deaths … as yet; but the bruised man
feels to…day as if his case was mighty serious。
DEC。 25; '91。
Your note with a very despicable bulletin of health arrived
only yesterday; the mail being a day behind。 It contained
also the excellent TIMES article; which was a sight for sore
eyes。 I am still TABOO; the blessed Germans will have none
of me; and I only hope they may enjoy the TIMES article。
'Tis my revenge! I wish you had sent the letter too; as I
have no copy; and do not even know what I wrote the last day;
with a bad headache; and the mail going out。 However; it
must have been about right; for the TIMES article was in the
spirit I wished to arouse。 I hope we can get rid of the man
before it is too late。 He has set the natives to war; but
the natives; by God's blessing; do not want to fight; and I
think it will fizzle out … no thanks to the man who tried to
start it。 But I did not mean to drift into these politics;
rather to tell you what I have done since I last wrote。
Well; I worked away at my History for a while; and only got
one chapter done; no doubt this spate of work is pretty low
now; and will be soon dry; but; God bless you; what a lot I
have accomplished; WRECKER done; BEACH OF FALESA done; half
the HISTORY: C'EST ETONNANT。 (I hear from Burlingame; by the
way; that he likes the end of the WRECKER; 'tis certainly a
violent; dark yarn with interesting; plain turns of human
nature); then Lloyd and I went down to live in Haggard's
rooms; where Fanny presently joined us。 Haggard's rooms are
in a strange old building … old for Samoa; and has the effect
of the antique like some strange monastery; I would tell you
more of it; but I think I'm going to use it in a tale。 The
annexe close by had its door sealed; poor Dowdney lost at sea
in a schooner。 The place is haunted。 The vast empty sheds;
the empty store; the airless; hot; long; low rooms; the claps
of wind that set everything flying … a strange uncanny house
to spend Christmas in。
JAN。 1ST; '92。
For a day or two I have sat close and wrought hard at the
HISTORY; and two more chapters are all but done。 About
thirty pages should go by this mail; which is not what should
be; but all I could overtake。 Will any one ever read it? I
fancy not; people don't read history for reading; but for
education and display … and who desires education in the
history of Samoa; with no population; no past; no future; or
the exploits of Mataafa; Malietoa; and Consul Knappe?
Colkitto and Galasp are a trifle to it。 Well; it can't be
helped; and it must be done; and; better or worse; it's
capital fun。 There are two to whom I have not been kind …
German Consul Becker and English Captain Hand; R。N。
On Dec。 30th I rode down with Belle to go to (if you please)
the Fancy Ball。 When I got to the beach; I found the
barometer was below 29 degrees; the wind still in the east
and steady; but a huge offensive continent of clouds and
vapours forming to leeward。 It might be a hurricane; I dared
not risk getting caught away from my work; and; leaving
Belle; returned at once to Vailima。 Next day … yesterday …
it was a tearer; we had storm shutters up; I sat in my room
and wrote by lamplight … ten pages; if you please; seven of
them draft; and some of these compiled from as many as seven
different and conflicting authorities; so that was a brave
day's work。 About two a huge tree fell within sixty paces of
our house; a little after; a second went; and we sent out
boys with axes and cut down a third; which was too near the
house; and buckling like a fishing rod。 At dinner we had the
front door closed and shuttered; the back door open; the lamp
lit。 The boys in the cook…house were all out at the cook…
house door; where we could see them looking in and smiling。
Lauilo and Faauma waited on us with smiles。 The excitement
was delightful。 Some very violent squalls came as we sat
there; and every one rejoiced; it was impossible to help it;
a soul of putty had to sing。 All night it blew; the roof was
continually sounding under missiles; in the morning the
verandahs were half full of branches torn from the forest。
There was a last very wild squall about six; the rain; like a
thick white smoke; flying past the house in volleys; and as
swift; it seemed; as rifle balls; all with a strange;
strident hiss; such as I have only heard before at sea; and;
indeed; thought to be a marine phenomenon。 Since then the
wind has been falling with a few squalls; mostly rain。 But
our road is impassable for horses; we hear a schooner has
been wrecked and some native houses blown down in Apia; where
Belle is still and must remain a prisoner。 Lucky I returned
while I could! But the great good is this; much bread…fruit
and bananas have been destroyed; if this be general through
the islands; famine will be imminent; and WHOEVER BLOWS THE
COALS; THERE CAN BE NO WAR。 Do I then prefer a famine to a
war? you ask。 Not always; but just now。 I am sure the
natives do not want a war; I am sure a war would benefit no
one but the white officials; and I believe we can easily meet
the famine … or at least that it can be met。 That would give
our officials a legitimate opportunity to cover their past
errors。
JAN。 2ND。
I woke this morning to find the blow quite ended。 The heaven
was all a mottled gray; even the east quite colourless; the
downward slope of the island veiled in wafts of vapour; blue
like smoke; not a leaf stirred on the tallest tree; only;
three miles away below me on the barrier reef; I could see
the individual breakers curl and fall; and hear their
conjunct r