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latterly two； we had cooked all day long； a cold dinner； and
lo！ at two our guests began to arrive； though dinner was not
till six； they were sixteen； and fifteen slept the night and
breakfasted。 Conceive； then； how unwillingly we climb on our
horses and start off in the hottest part of the afternoon to
ride 4 and a half miles； attend a native feast in the gaol；
and ride four and a half miles back。 But there is no help
for it。 I am a sort of father of the political prisoners；
and have CHARGE D'AMES in that riotously absurd
establishment； Apia Gaol。 The twenty…three （I think it is）
chiefs act as under gaolers。 The other day they told the
Captain of an attempt to escape。 One of the lesser political
prisoners the other day effected a swift capture； while the
Captain was trailing about with the warrant； the man came to
see what was wanted； came； too； flanked by the former gaoler；
my prisoner offers to show him the dark cell； shoves him in；
and locks the door。 'Why do you do that？' cries the former
gaoler。 'A warrant；' says he。 Finally； the chiefs actually
feed the soldiery who watch them！
The gaol is a wretched little building； containing a little
room； and three cells； on each side of a central passage； it
is surrounded by a fence of corrugated iron； and shows； over
the top of that； only a gable end with the inscription O LE
FALE PUIPUI。 It is on the edge of the mangrove swamp； and is
reached by a sort of causeway of turf。 When we drew near； we
saw the gates standing open and a prodigious crowd outside …
I mean prodigious for Apia； perhaps a hundred and fifty
people。 The two sentries at the gate stood to arms
passively； and there seemed to be a continuous circulation
inside and out。 The captain came to meet us； our boy； who
had been sent ahead was there to take the horses； and we
passed inside the court which was full of food； and rang
continuously to the voice of the caller of gifts； I had to
blush a little later when my own present came； and I heard my
one pig and eight miserable pine…apples being counted out
like guineas。 In the four corners of the yard and along one
wall； there are make…shift； dwarfish； Samoan houses or huts；
which have been run up since Captain Wurmbrand came to
accommodate the chiefs。 Before that they were all crammed
into the six cells； and locked in for the night； some of them
with dysentery。 They are wretched constructions enough； but
sanctified by the presence of chiefs。 We heard a man
corrected loudly to…day for saying 'FALE' of one of them；
'MAOTA；' roared the highest chief present … 'palace。' About
eighteen chiefs； gorgeously arrayed； stood up to greet us；
and led us into one of these MAOTAS； where you may be sure we
had to crouch； almost to kneel； to enter； and where a row of
pretty girls occupied one side to make the ava （kava）。 The
highest chief present was a magnificent man； as high chiefs
usually are； I find I cannot describe him； his face is full
of shrewdness and authority； his figure like Ajax； his name
Auilua。 He took the head of the building and put Belle on
his right hand。 Fanny was called first for the ava （kava）。
Our names were called in English style； the high…chief wife
of Mr。 St… （an unpronounceable something）； Mrs。 Straw； and
the like。 And when we went into the other house to eat； we
found we were seated alternately with chiefs about the …
table； I was about to say； but rather floor。 Everything was
to be done European style with a vengeance！ We were the only
whites present； except Wurmbrand； and still I had no
suspicion of the truth。 They began to take off their ulas
（necklaces of scarlet seeds） and hang them about our necks；
we politely resisted； and were told that the King （who had
stopped off their SIVA） had sent down to the prison a message
to the effect that he was to give a dinner to…morrow； and
wished their second…hand ulas for it。 Some of them were
content； others not。 There was a ring of anger in the boy's
voice； as he told us we were to wear them past the King's
house。 Dinner over； I must say they are moderate eaters at a
feast； we returned to the ava house； and then the curtain
drew suddenly up upon the set scene。 We took our seats； and
Auilua began to give me a present； recapitulating each
article as he gave it out； with some appropriate comment。 He
called me several times 'their only friend；' said they were
all in slavery； had no money； and these things were all made
by the hands of their families … nothing bought； he had one
phrase； in which I heard his voice rise up to a note of
triumph： 'This is a present from the poor prisoners to the
rich man。' Thirteen pieces of tapa； some of them
surprisingly fine； one I think unique； thirty fans of every
shape and colour； a kava cup； etc。； etc。 At first Auilua
conducted the business with weighty gravity； but before the
end of the thirty fans； his comments began to be humorous。
When it came to a little basket； he said： 'Here was a little
basket for Tusitala to put sixpence in； when he could get
hold of one' … with a delicious grimace。 I answered as best
as I was able through a miserable interpreter； and all the
while； as I went on； I heard the crier outside in the court
calling my gift of food； which I perceived was to be
Gargantuan。 I had brought but three boys with me。 It was
plain that they were wholly overpowered。 We proposed to send
for our gifts on the morrow； but no； said the interpreter；
that would never do； they must go away to…day； Mulinuu must
see my porters taking away the gifts； … 'make 'em jella；'
quoth the interpreter。 And I began to see the reason of this
really splendid gift； one half； gratitude to me … one half； a
wipe at the King。
And now； to introduce darker colours； you must know this
visit of mine to the gaol was just a little bit risky； we had
several causes for anxiety； it MIGHT have been put up； to
connect with a Tamasese rising。 Tusitala and his family
would be good hostages。 On the other hand； there were the
Mulinuu people all about。 We could see the anxiety of
Captain Wurmbrand； no less anxious to have us go； than he had
been to see us come； he was deadly white and plainly had a
bad headache； in the noisy scene。 Presently； the noise grew
uproarious； there was a rush at the gate … a rush in； not a
rush out … where the two sentries still stood passive； Auilua
leaped from his place （it was then that I got the name of
Ajax for him） and the next moment we heard his voice roaring
and saw his mighty figure swaying to and fro in the hurly…
burly。 As the deuce would have it； we could not understand a
word of what was going on。 It might be nothing more than the
ordinary 'grab racket' with which a feast commonly concludes；
it might be something worse。 We made what arrangements we
could for my tapa； fans； etc。； as well as for my five pigs；
my masses of fish； taro； etc。； and with great dignity； and
ourselves laden with ulas and other decorations； passed
between the sentries among the howling mob to our horses。
All's well that ends well。 Owing to Fanny and Belle； we had
to walk； and； as Lloyd said； 'he had at last ridden in a
circus。' The whole length of Apia we paced our triumphal
progress； past the King's palace； past the German firm at
Sogi … you can follow it on the map … amidst admiring
exclamations of 'MAWAIA' … beautiful … it may be rendered 'O
my！ ain't they dandy' … until we turned up at last into our
road as the dusk deepened into night。 It was really
exciting。 And there is one thing sure： no such feast was
ever made for a single family； and no such present ever given
to a single white man。 It is something to have been the hero
of it。 And whatever other ingredients there were；
undoubtedly gratitude was present。 As money value I have
actually gained on the transaction！
Your note arrived； little profit； I must say。 Scott has
already put his nose in； in ST。 IVES； sir； but his appearance
is not yet complete； nothing is in that romance； except the
story。 I have to announce that I am off work； probably for
six months。 I must own that I have overworked bitterly …
overworked … there； that's legible。 My hand is a thing that
was； and in the meanwhile so are my brains。 And here； in the
very midst； comes a plausible scheme to make Vailima pay；
which will perhaps let me into considerable expense just when
I don't want it。 You know the vast cynicism of my view of
affairs； and how readily and （as some people say） with how
much gusto I take the darker view？
Why do you not send me Jerome K。 Jerome's paper； and let me
see THE EBB TIDE as a serial？ It is always very important to
see a thing in different presentments。 I want every number。
Politically we begin the new year with every