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religious sociability。 The raising of funds appeared to be the burden on the preacher's mind。 Two collections were taken up。 At the first； the boxes appeared to get no supply except from the two white trash present。 But the second was more successful。 After the sermon was over； an elder took his place at a table within the rails； and the real business of the evening began。 Somebody in the Amen corner struck up a tune that had no end； but a mighty power of setting the congregation in motion。 The leader had a voice like the pleasant droning of a bag…pipe； and the faculty of emitting a continuous note like that instrument； without stopping to breathe。 It went on and on like a Bach fugue； winding and whining its way； turning the corners of the lines of the catch without a break。 The effect was soon visible in the emotional crowd： feet began to move in a regular cadence and voices to join in； with spurts of ejaculation； and soon； with an air of martyrdom； the members began to leave their seats and pass before the table and deposit their contributions。 It was a cent contribution； and we found it very difficult； under the contagious influence of the hum from the Amen corner； not to rise and go forward and deposit a cent。 If anything could extract the pennies from a reluctant worldling； it would be the buzzing of this tune。 It went on and on； until the house appeared to be drained dry of its cash； and we inferred by the stopping of the melody that the preacher's salary was secure for the time being。 On inquiring； we ascertained that the pecuniary flood that evening had risen to the height of a dollar and sixty cents。
All was ready for the start。 It should have been early in the morning； but it was not； for Virginia is not only one of the blessed regions where one can get a late breakfast； but where it is almost impossible to get an early one。 At ten A。 M。 the two horsemen rode away out of sight of the Abingdon spectators； down the eastern turnpike。 The day was warm； but the air was full of vitality and the spirit of adventure。 It was the 22d of July。 The horses were not ambitious； but went on at an easy fox…trot that permits observation and encourages conversation。 It had been stipulated that the horses should be good walkers； the one essential thing in a horseback journey。 Few horses； even in a country where riding is general； are trained to walk fast。 We hear much of horses that can walk five miles an hour； but they are as rare as white elephants。 Our horses were only fair walkers。 We realized how necessary this accomplishment is； for between the Tennessee line and Asheville； North Carolina； there is scarcely a mile of trotting…ground。
We soon turned southward and descended into the Holston River Valley。 Beyond lay the Tennessee hills and conspicuous White…Top Mountain （5530 feet）； which has a good deal of local celebrity （standing where the States of Virginia； Tennessee； and North Carolina corner）； and had been pointed out to us at Abingdon。 We had been urged； personally and by letter； to ascend this mountain； without fail。 People recommend mountains to their friends as they do patent medicines。 As we leisurely jogged along we discussed this； and endeavored to arrive at some rule of conduct for the journey。 The Professor expressed at once a feeling about mountain…climbing that amounted to hostility；he would go nowhere that he could not ride。 Climbing was the most unsatisfactory use to which a mountain could be put。 As to White…Top； it was a small mountain； and not worth ascending。 The Friend of Humanity； who believes in mountain…climbing as a theory； and for other people； and knows the value of being able to say； without detection； that he has ascended any high mountain about which he is questioned；since this question is the first one asked about an exploration in a new country；saw that he should have to use a good deal of diplomacy to get the Professor over any considerable elevation on the trip。 And he had to confess also that a view from a mountain is never so satisfactory as a view of a mountain； from a moderate height。 The Professor； however； did not argue the matter on any such reasonable ground； but took his stand on his right as a man not to ascend a mountain。 With this appeal to first principles；a position that could not be confuted on account of its vagueness （although it might probably be demonstrated that in society man has no such right）； there was no way of agreement except by a compromise。 It was accordingly agreed that no mountain under six thousand feet is worth ascending； that disposed of White…Top。 It was further agreed that any mountain that is over six thousand feet high is too high to ascend on foot。
With this amicable adjustment we forded the Holston； crossing it twice within a few miles。 This upper branch of the Tennessee is a noble stream； broad； with a rocky bed and a swift current。 Fording it is ticklish business except at comparatively low water； and as it is subject to sudden rises； there must be times when it seriously interrupts travel。 This whole region； full of swift streams； is without a bridge； and； as a consequence； getting over rivers and brooks and the dangers of ferries occupy a prominent place in the thoughts of the inhabitants。 The life necessarily had the 〃frontier〃 quality all through； for there can be little solid advance in civilization in the uncertainties of a bridgeless condition。 An open； pleasant valley； the Holston； but cultivation is more and more negligent and houses are few and poorer as we advance。
We had left behind the hotels of 〃perfect satisfaction；〃 and expected to live on the country； trusting to the infrequent but remunerated hospitality of the widely scattered inhabitants。 We were to dine at Ramsey's。 Ramsey's had been recommended to us as a royal place of entertainment the best in all that region； and as the sun grew hot in the sandy valley； and the weariness of noon fell upon us； we magnified Ramsey's in our imagination；the nobility of its situation； its cuisine； its inviting restfulness；and half decided to pass the night there in the true abandon of plantation life。 Long before we reached it； the Holston River which we followed had become the Laurel； a most lovely； rocky； winding stream； which we forded continually； for the valley became too narrow much of the way to accommodate a road and a river。 Eagerly as we were looking out for it； we passed the great Ramsey's without knowing it； for it was the first of a little settlement of two houses and a saw…mill and barn。 It was a neat log house of two lower rooms and a summer kitchen； quite the best of the class that we saw； and the pleasant mistress of it made us welcome。 Across the road and close； to the Laurel was the spring…house； the invariable adjunct to every well…to…do house in the region； and on the stony margin of the stream was set up the big caldron for the family washing； and here； paddling in the shallow stream； while dinner was preparing； we established an intimacy with the children and exchanged philosophical observations on life with the old negress who was dabbling the clothes。 What impressed this woman was the inequality in life。 She jumped to the unwarranted conclusion that the Professor and the Friend were very rich； and spoke with asperity of the difficulty she experienced in getting shoes and tobacco。 It was useless to point out to her that her alfresco life was singularly blessed and free from care； and the happy lot of any one who could loiter all day by this laughing stream； undisturbed by debt or ambition。 Everybody about the place was barefooted； except the mistress； including the comely daughter of eighteen； who served our dinner in the kitchen。 The dinner was abundant； and though it seemed to us incongruous at the time； we were not twelve hours older when we looked back upon it with longing。 On the table were hot biscuit； ham； pork； and green beans； apple…sauce； blackberry preserves； cucumbers； coffee； plenty of milk； honey； and apple and blackberry pie。 Here we had our first experience； and I may say new sensation； of 〃honey on pie。〃 It has a cloying sound as it is written； but the handmaiden recommended it with enthusiasm； and we evidently fell in her esteem； as persons from an uncultivated society； when we declared our inexperience of 〃honey on pie。〃 〃Where be you from？〃 It turned out to be very good； and we have tried to introduce it in families since our return； with indifferent success。 There did not seem to be in this family much curiosity about the world at large； nor much stir of social life。 The gayety of madame appeared to consist in an occasional visit to paw and maw and grandmaw； up the river a few miles； where she was raised。
Refreshed by the honey and fodder at Ramsey's； the pilgrims went gayly along the musical Laurel； in the slanting rays of the afternoon sun； which played upon the rapids and illumined all the woody way。 Inspired by the misapprehension of the colored philosopher and the dainties of the dinner； the Professor soliloquized：
〃So am I as the rich； whose blessed key Can bring him to his sweet up…locked treasure； The which he will not every hour survey； For blunting the fine point of seldom