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〃So am I as the rich； whose blessed key Can bring him to his sweet up…locked treasure； The which he will not every hour survey； For blunting the fine point of seldom pleasure。 Therefore are feasts so solemn and so rare； Since seldom coming； in the long year set； Like stones of wealth they thinly placed are； Or captain jewels in the carcanet。〃
Five miles beyond Ramsey's the Tennessee line was crossed。 The Laurel became more rocky； swift； full of rapids； and the valley narrowed down to the riverway； with standing room； however； for stately trees along the banks。 The oaks； both black and white； were； as they had been all day； gigantic in size and splendid in foliage。 There is a certain dignity in riding in such stately company； and the travelers clattered along over the stony road under the impression of possible high adventure in a new world of such freshness。 Nor was beauty wanting。 The rhododendrons had； perhaps； a week ago reached their climax； and now began to strew the water and the ground with their brilliant petals； dashing all the way with color； but they were still matchlessly beautiful。 Great banks of pink and white covered the steep hillsides； the bending stems； ten to twenty feet high； hung their rich clusters over the river； avenues of glory opened away in the glade of the stream； and at every turn of the winding way vistas glowing with the hues of romance wrenched exclamations of delight and wonder from the Shakespearean sonneteer and his humble Friend。 In the deep recesses of the forest suddenly flamed to the view； like the splashes of splendor on the somber canvas of an old Venetian； these wonders of color；the glowing summer…heart of the woods。
It was difficult to say； meantime； whether the road was laid out in the river； or the river in the road。 In the few miles to Egger's （this was the destination of our great expectations for the night） the stream was crossed twenty…seven times；or perhaps it would be more proper to say that the road was crossed twenty…seven times。 Where the road did not run in the river； its bed was washed out and as stony as the bed of the stream。 This is a general and accurate description of all the roads in this region； which wind along and in the streams； through narrow valleys； shut in by low and steep hills。 The country is full of springs and streams； and between Abingdon and Egger's is only one （small） bridge。 In a region with scarcely any level land or intervale； farmers are at a disadvantage。 All along the road we saw nothing but mean shanties； generally of logs； with now and then a decent one…story frame； and the people looked miserably poor。
As we picked our way along up the Laurel； obliged for the most part to ride single…file； or as the Professor expressed it；
〃Let me confess that we two must be twain； Although our undivided loves are one；〃
we gathered information about Egger's from the infrequent hovels on the road； which inflamed our imaginations。 Egger was the thriving man of the region； and lived in style in a big brick house。 We began to feel a doubt that Egger would take us in； and so much did his brick magnificence impress us that we regretted we had not brought apparel fit for the society we were about to enter。
It was half…past six； and we were tired and hungry； when the domain of Egger towered in sight；a gaunt； two…story structure of raw brick； unfinished； standing in a narrow intervale。 We rode up to the gate； and asked a man who sat in the front…door porch if this was Egger's； and if we could be accommodated for the night。 The man； without moving； allowed that it was Egger's； and that we could probably stay there。 This person； however； exhibited so much indifference to our company； he was such a hairy； unkempt man； and carried on face； hands； and clothes so much more of the soil of the region than a prudent proprietor would divert from raising corn； that we set him aside as a poor relation； and asked for Mr。 Egger。 But the man； still without the least hospitable stir； admitted that that was the name he went by； and at length advised us to 〃lite〃 and hitch our horses； and sit on the porch with him and enjoy the cool of the evening。 The horses would be put up by and by； and in fact things generally would come round some time。 This turned out to be the easy way of the country。 Mr。 Egger was far from being inhospitable； but was in no hurry； and never had been in a hurry。 He was not exactly a gentleman of the old school。 He was better than that。 He dated from the time when there were no schools at all； and he lived in that placid world which is without information and ideas。 Mr。 Egger showed his superiority by a total lack of curiosity about any other world。
This brick house； magnificent by comparison with other dwellings in this country； seemed to us； on nearer acquaintance； only a thin； crude shell of a house； half unfinished； with bare rooms； the plastering already discolored。 In point of furnishing it had not yet reached the 〃God bless our Home〃 stage in crewel。 In the narrow meadow； a strip of vivid green south of the house； ran a little stream； fed by a copious spring； and over it was built the inevitable spring…house。 A post； driven into the bank by the stream； supported a tin wash…basin； and here we performed our ablutions。 The traveler gets to like this freedom and primitive luxury。
The farm of Egger produces corn； wheat； grass； and sheep； it is a good enough farm； but most of it lies at an angle of thirty…five to forty degrees。 The ridge back of the house； planted in corn； was as steep as the roof of his dwelling。 It seemed incredible that it ever could have been plowed； but the proprietor assured us that it was plowed with mules； and I judged that the harvesting must be done by squirrels。 The soil is good enough； if it would stay in place； but all the hillsides are seamed with gullies。 The discolored state of the streams was accounted for as soon as we saw this cultivated land。 No sooner is the land cleared of trees and broken up than it begins to wash。 We saw more of this later； especially in North Carolina； where we encountered no stream of water that was not muddy； and saw no cultivated ground that was not washed。 The process of denudation is going on rapidly wherever the original forests are girdled （a common way of preparing for crops）； or cut away。
As the time passed and there was no sign of supper； the question became a burning one； and we went to explore the kitchen。 No sign of it there。 No fire in the stove； nothing cooked in the house； of course。 Mrs。 Egger and her comely young barefooted daughter had still the milking to attend to； and supper must wait for the other chores。 It seemed easier to be Mr。 Egger； in this state of existence； and sit on the front porch and meditate on the price of mules and the prospect of a crop； than to be Mrs。 Egger； whose work was not limited from sun to sun； who had； in fact； a day's work to do after the men…folks had knocked off； whose chances of neighborhood gossip were scanty； whose amusements were confined to a religious meeting once a fortnight。 Good； honest people these； not unduly puffed up by the brick house； grubbing away year in and year out。 Yes； the young girl said； there was a neighborhood party； now and then； in the winter。 What a price to pay for mere life！
Long before supper was ready； nearly nine o'clock； we had almost lost interest in it。 Meantime two other guests had arrived； a couple of drovers from North Carolina； who brought into the circleby this time a wood…fire had been kindled in the sitting…room； which contained a bed； an almanac； and some old copies of a newspapera rich flavor of cattle； and talk of the price of steers。 As to politics； although a presidential campaign was raging； there was scarcely an echo of it here。 This was Johnson County； Tennessee； a strong Republican county but dog…gone it； says Mr。 Egger； it's no use to vote； our votes are overborne by the rest of the State。 Yes； they'd got a Republican member of Congress；he'd heard his name； but he'd forgotten it。 The drover said he'd heard it also； but he didn't take much interest in such things； though he wasn't any Republican。 Parties is pretty much all for office； both agreed。 Even the Professor； who was traveling in the interest of Reform； couldn't wake up a discussion out of such a state of mind。
Alas！ the supper； served in a room dimly lighted with a smoky lamp； on a long table covered with oilcloth； was not of the sort to arouse the delayed and now gone appetite of a Reformer； and yet it did not lack variety： cornpone （Indian meal stirred up with water and heated through）； hot biscuit； slack…baked and livid； fried salt…pork swimming in grease； apple…butter； pickled beets； onions and cucumbers raw； coffee （so…called）； buttermilk； and sweet milk when specially asked for （the correct taste； however； is for buttermilk）； and pie。 This was not the pie of commerce； but the pie of the country；two thick slabs of dough； with a squeezing of apple between。 The profusion of this supper staggered the novices； but the drovers attacked it as if such cooking were a common occurrence） and did justice to the weary labors of Mrs。