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matter of ten miles' gallop； to get a medicinal potion for his sick mother； and lingered chatting with the young ladies until we began to fear that his mother would recover before his return； the coming and going of lean women in shackly wagons to trade at the store； the coming home of the cows； splashing through the stream； hooking right and left； and lowing for the hand of the milker；all these interruptions； together with the generally drowsy quiet of the approach of evening； interfered with the study of the Elements。 And when the travelers； after a refreshing rest； went on their way next morning； considering the Elements and the pianos and the refinement； to say nothing of the cuisine； which is not treated of in the text…book referred to； they were content with a bill double that of brother Egger； in his brick magnificence。
The simple truth is； that the traveler in this region must be content to feed on natural beauties。 And it is an unfortunate truth in natural history that the appetite for this sort of diet fails after a time； if the inner man is not supplied with other sort of food。 There is no landscape in the world that is agreeable after two days of rusty…bacon and slack biscuit。
〃How lovely this would be；〃 exclaimed the Professor； if it had a background of beefsteak and coffee！
We were riding along the west fork of the Laurel； distinguished locally as Three Top Creek；or； rather； we were riding in it； crossing it thirty…one times within six miles； a charming wood （and water） road； under the shade of fine trees with the rhododendron illuminating the way； gleaming in the forest and reflected in the stream； all the ten miles to Elk Cross Roads； our next destination。 We had heard a great deal about Elk Cross Roads； it was on the map； it was down in the itinerary furnished by a member of the Coast Survey。 We looked forward to it as a sweet place of repose from the noontide heat。 Alas！ Elk Cross Roads is a dirty grocery store； encumbered with dry…goods boxes； fly…blown goods； flies； loafers。 In reply to our inquiry we were told that they had nothing to eat； for us； and not a grain of feed for the horses。 But there was a man a mile farther on； who was well to do and had stores of food；old man Tatern would treat us in bang…up style。 The difficulty of getting feed for the horses was chronic all through the journey。 The last corn crop had failed； the new oats and corn had not come in； and the country was literally barren。 We had noticed all along that the hens were taking a vacation； and that chickens were not put forward as an article of diet。
We were unable； when we reached the residence of old man Tatem； to imagine how the local superstition of his wealth arose。 His house is of logs； with two rooms； a kitchen and a spare room； with a low loft accessible by a ladder at the side of the chimney。 The chimney is a huge construction of stone； separating the two parts of the house； in fact； the chimney was built first； apparently； and the two rooms were then built against it。 The proprietor sat in a little railed veranda。 These Southern verandas give an air to the meanest dwelling； and they are much used； the family sit here； and here are the washbasin and pail （which is filled from the neighboring spring… house）； and the row of milk…pans。 The old man Tatern did not welcome us with enthusiasm； he had no corn；these were hard times。 He looked like hard times； grizzled times； dirty times。 It seemed time out of mind since he had seen comb or razor； and although the lovely New River； along which we had ridden to his house；a broad； inviting stream；was in sight across the meadow； there was no evidence that he had ever made acquaintance with its cleansing waters。 As to corn； the necessities of the case and pay being dwelt on； perhaps he could find a dozen ears。 A dozen small cars he did find； and we trust that the horses found them。
We took a family dinner with old man Tatern in the kitchen； where there was a bed and a stove；a meal that the host seemed to enjoy； but which we could not make much of； except the milk； that was good。 A painful meal； on the whole； owing to the presence in the room of a grown…up daughter with a graveyard cough； without physician or medicine； or comforts。 Poor girl！ just dying of 〃a misery。〃
In the spare room were two beds； the walls were decorated with the gay…colored pictures of patent…medicine advertisementsa favorite art adornment of the region； and a pile of ancient illustrated papers with the usual patent…office report； the thoughtful gift of the member for the district。 The old man takes in the 〃Blue Ridge Baptist；〃 a journal which we found largely taken up with the experiences of its editor on his journeys roundabout in search of subscribers。 This newspaper was the sole communication of the family with the world at large； but the old man thought he should stop it； he did n't seem to get the worth of his money out of it。 And old man Tatem was a thrifty and provident man。 On the hearth in this best roomas ornaments or memento mori were a couple of marble gravestones； a short headstone and foot…stone； mounted on bases and ready for use； except the lettering。 These may not have been so mournful and significant as they looked； nor the evidence of simple； humble faith； they may have been taken for debt。 But as parlor ornaments they had a fascination which we could not escape。
It was while we were bathing in the New River； that afternoon； and meditating on the grim； unrelieved sort of life of our host； that the Professor said； 〃judging by the face of the 'Blue Ridge Baptist；' he will charge us smartly for the few nubbins of corn and the milk。〃 The face did not deceive us； the charge was one dollar。 At this rate it would have broken us to have tarried with old man Tatem （perhaps he is not old； but that is the name he goes by） over night。
It was a hot afternoon； and it needed some courage to mount and climb the sandy hill leading us away from the corn…crib of Tatem。 But we entered almost immediately into fine stretches of forest； and rode under the shade of great oaks。 The way； which began by the New River； soon led us over the hills to the higher levels of Watauga County。 So far on our journey we had been hemmed in by low hills； and without any distant or mountain outlooks。 The excessive heat seemed out of place at the elevation of over two thousand feet； on which we were traveling。 Boone； the county seat of Watauga County； was our destination； and； ever since morning； the guideboards and the trend of the roads had notified us that everything in this region tends towards Boone as a center of interest。 The simple ingenuity of some of the guide…boards impressed us。 If； on coming to a fork； the traveler was to turn to the right； the sign read；
To BOONE 10 M。 If he was to go to the left； it read； 。M 01 ENOOB oT
A short ride of nine miles； on an ascending road； through an open； unfenced forest region； brought us long before sundown to this capital。 When we had ridden into its single street； which wanders over gentle hills； and landed at the most promising of the taverns； the Friend informed his comrade that Boone was 3250 feet above Albemarle Sound； and believed by its inhabitants to be the highest village east of the Rocky Mountains。 The Professor said that it might be so； but it was a God…forsaken place。 Its inhabitants numbered perhaps two hundred and fifty； a few of them colored。 It had a gaunt； shaky court…house and jail； a store or two； and two taverns。 The two taverns are needed to accommodate the judges and lawyers and their clients during the session of the court。 The court is the only excitement and the only amusement。 It is the event from which other events date。 Everybody in the county knows exactly when court sits； and when court breaks。 During the session the whole county is practically in Boone； men； women； and children。 They camp there； they attend the trials； they take sides； half of them； perhaps； are witnesses； for the region is litigious； and the neighborhood quarrels are entered into with spirit。 To be fond of lawsuits seems a characteristic of an isolated people in new conditions。 The early settlers of New England were。
Notwithstanding the elevation of Boone； which insured a pure air； the thermometer that afternoon stood at from 85 to 89 deg。 The flies enjoyed it。 How they swarmed in this tavern！ They would have carried off all the food from the dining…room table （for flies do not mind eating off oilcloth； and are not particular how food is cooked）； but for the machine with hanging flappers that swept the length of it； and they destroy all possibility of sleep except in the dark。 The mountain regions of North Carolina are free from mosquitoes； but the fly has settled there； and is the universal scourge。 This tavern； one end of which was a store； had a veranda in front； and a back gallery； where there were evidences of female refinement in pots of plants and flowers。 The landlord himself kept tavern very much as a hostler would； but we had to make a note in his favor that he had never heard of a milk punch。 And it might as well be said here； for it will have to be insisted on later； that the traveler； who has rea