按键盘上方向键 ← 或 → 可快速上下翻页，按键盘上的 Enter 键可回到本书目录页，按键盘上方向键 ↑ 可回到本页顶部！
————未阅读完？加入书签已便下次继续阅读！
might as well be said here； for it will have to be insisted on later； that the traveler； who has read about the illicit stills till his imagination dwells upon the indulgence of his vitiated tastes in the mountains of North Carolina； is doomed to disappointment。 If he wants to make himself an exception to the sober people whose cooking will make him long for the maddening bowl； he must bring his poison with him。 We had found no bread since we left Virginia； we had seen cornmeal and water； slack…baked； we had seen potatoes fried in grease； and bacon incrusted with salt （all thirst…provokers）； but nothing to drink stronger than buttermilk。 And we can say that； so far as our example is concerned； we left the country as temperate as we found it。 How can there be mint juleps （to go into details） without ice？ and in the summer there is probably not a pound of ice in all the State north of Buncombe County。
There is nothing special to be said about Boone。 We were anxious to reach it； we were glad to leave it； we note as to all these places that our joy at departing always exceeds that on arriving； which is a merciful provision of nature for people who must keep moving。 This country is settled by genuine Americans； who have the aboriginal primitive traits of the universal Yankee nation。 The front porch in the morning resembled a carpenter's shop； it was literally covered with the whittlings of the row of natives who had spent the evening there in the sedative occupation of whittling。
We took that morning a forest road to Valle Crusis； seven miles； through noble growths of oaks； chestnuts； hemlocks； rhododendrons；a charming wood road； leading to a place that； as usual； did not keep the promise of its name。 Valle Crusis has a blacksmith shop and a dirty； flyblown store。 While the Professor consulted the blacksmith about a loose shoe； the Friend carried his weariness of life without provisions up to a white house on the hill； and negotiated for boiled milk。 This house was occupied by flies。 They must have numbered millions； settled in black swarms； covering tables； beds； walls； the veranda； the kitchen was simply a hive of them。 The only book in sight； Whewell'sElements of Morality；〃 seemed to attract flies。 Query； Why should this have such a different effect from Porter's？ A white house；a pleasant…looking house at a distance；amiable； kindly people in it；why should we have arrived there on its dirty day？ Alas！ if we had been starving； Valle Crusis had nothing to offer us。
So we rode away； in the blazing heat； no poetry exuding from the Professor； eight miles to Banner's Elk； crossing a mountain and passing under Hanging Rock； a conspicuous feature in the landscape； and the only outcropping of rock we had seen： the face of a ledge； rounded up into the sky； with a green hood on it。 From the summit we had the first extensive prospect during our journey。 The road can be described as awful；steep； stony； the horses unable to make two miles an hour on it。 Now and then we encountered a rude log cabin without barns or outhouses； and a little patch of feeble corn。 The women who regarded the passers from their cabin doors were frowzy and looked tired。 What with the heat and the road and this discouraged appearance of humanity； we reached the residence of Dugger； at Banner's Elk； to which we had been directed； nearly exhausted。 It is no use to represent this as a dash across country on impatient steeds。 It was not so。 The love of truth is stronger than the desire of display。 And for this reason it is impossible to say that Mr。 Dugger； who is an excellent man； lives in a clean and attractive house； or that he offers much that the pampered child of civilization can eat。 But we shall not forget the two eggs； fresh from the hens； whose temperature must have been above the normal； nor the spring… house in the glen； where we found a refuge from the flies and the heat。 The higher we go； the hotter it is。 Banner's Elk boasts an elevation of thirty…five to thirty…seven hundred feet。
We were not sorry； towards sunset； to descend along the Elk River towards Cranberry Forge。 The Elk is a lovely stream； and； though not very clear； has a reputation for trout； but all this region was under operation of a three…years game law； to give the trout a chance to multiply； and we had no opportunity to test the value of its reputation。 Yet a boy whom we encountered had a good string of quarter…pound trout； which he had taken out with a hook and a feather rudely tied on it； to resemble a fly。 The road； though not to be commended； was much better than that of the morning； the forests grew charming in the cool of the evening； the whippoorwill sang； and as night fell the wanderers； in want of nearly everything that makes life desirable； stopped at the Iron Company's hotel； under the impression that it was the only comfortable hotel in North Carolina。
II
Cranberry Forge is the first wedge of civilization fairly driven into the northwest mountains of North Carolina。 A narrow…gauge railway； starting from Johnson City； follows up the narrow gorge of the Doe River； and pushes into the heart of the iron mines at Cranberry； where there is a blast furnace； and where a big company store； rows of tenement houses； heaps of slag and refuse ore； interlacing tracks； raw embankments； denuded hillsides； and a blackened landscape； are the signs of a great devastating American enterprise。 The Cranberry iron is in great esteem； as it has the peculiar quality of the Swedish iron。 There are remains of old furnaces lower down the stream； which we passed on our way。 The present 〃plant〃 is that of a Philadelphia company； whose enterprise has infused new life into all this region； made it accessible； and spoiled some pretty scenery。
When we alighted； weary； at the gate of the pretty hotel； which crowns a gentle hill and commands a pleasing； evergreen prospect of many gentle hills； a mile or so below the works； and wholly removed from all sordid associations； we were at the point of willingness that the whole country should be devastated by civilization。 In the local imagination this hotel of the company is a palace of unequaled magnificence； but probably its good taste； comfort； and quiet elegance are not appreciated after all。 There is this to be said about Philadelphia；and it will go far in pleading for it in the Last Day against its monotonous rectangularity and the babel…like ambition of its Public Building；that wherever its influence extends； there will be found comfortable lodgings and the luxury of an undeniably excellent cuisine。 The visible seal that Philadelphia sets on its enterprise all through the South is a good hotel。
This Cottage Beautiful has on two sides a wide veranda； set about with easy chairs； cheerful parlors and pretty chambers； finished in native woods； among which are conspicuous the satin stripes of the cucumber…tree； luxurious beds； and an inviting table ordered by a Philadelphia landlady； who knows a beefsteak from a boot…tap。 Is it 〃low〃 to dwell upon these things of the senses； when one is on a tour in search of the picturesque？ Let the reader ride from Abingdon through a wilderness of cornpone and rusty bacon； and then judge。 There were； to be sure； novels lying about； and newspapers； and fragments of information to be picked up about a world into which the travelers seemed to emerge。 They； at least； were satisfied； and went off to their rooms with the restful feeling that they had arrived somewhere） and no unquiet spirit at morn would say 〃to horse。〃 To sleep； perchance to dream of Tatem and his household cemetery； and the Professor was heard muttering in his chamber；
〃Weary with toil； I haste me to my bed； The dear repose for limbs with travel tired； But then begins a journey in my head； To work my mind； when body's work's expir'd。〃
The morning was warm （the elevation of the hotel must be between twenty…five hundred and three thousand feet）； rainy； mildly rainy； and the travelers had nothing better to do than lounge upon the veranda； read feeble ten…cent fictions； and admire the stems of the white birches； glistening in the moisture； and the rhododendron… trees； twenty feet high； which were shaking off their last pink blossoms； and look down into the valley of the Doe。 It is not an exciting landscape； nothing bold or specially wild in it； but restful with the monotony of some of the wooded Pennsylvania hills。
Sunday came up smiling； a lovely day； but offering no church privileges； for the ordinance of preaching is only occasional in this region。 The ladies of the hotel have； however； gathered in the valley a Sunday…school of fifty children from the mountain cabins。 A couple of rainy days； with the thermometer rising to 80 deg。； combined with natural laziness to detain the travelers in this cottage of ease。 They enjoyed this the more because it was on their consciences that they should visit Linville Falls； some twenty…five miles eastward； long held up before them as the most magnificent feature of this region； and on no account to be omitted。 Hence； naturally； a strong desire to omit it。 The Professor takes bold ground against these abnormal freaks of nature； and it was nothing