按键盘上方向键 ← 或 → 可快速上下翻页，按键盘上的 Enter 键可回到本书目录页，按键盘上方向键 ↑ 可回到本页顶部！
————未阅读完？加入书签已便下次继续阅读！
it it。 The Professor takes bold ground against these abnormal freaks of nature； and it was nothing to him that the public would demand that we should see Linville Falls。 In the first place； we could find no one who had ever seen them； and we spent two days in catechizing natives and strangers。 The nearest we came to information was from a workman at the furnace； who was born and raised within three miles of the Falls。 He had heard of people going there。 He had never seen them himself。 It was a good twenty…five miles there； over the worst road in the State we'd think it thirty before we got there。 Fifty miles of such travel to see a little water run down…hill！ The travelers reflected。 Every country has a local waterfall of which it boasts； they had seen a great many。 One more would add little to the experience of life。 The vagueness of information； to be sure； lured the travelers to undertake the journey； but the temptation was resistedsomething ought to be left for the next explorerand so Linville remains a thing of the imagination。
Towards evening； July 29； between showers； the Professor and the Friend rode along the narrow…gauge road； down Johnson's Creek； to Roan Station； the point of departure for ascending Roan Mountain。 It was a ride of an hour and a half over a fair road； fringed with rhododendrons； nearly blossomless； but at a point on the stream this sturdy shrub had formed a long bower where under a table might have been set for a temperance picnic； completely overgrown with wild grape； and still gay with bloom。 The habitations on the way are mostly board shanties and mean frame cabins； but the railway is introducing ambitious architecture here and there in the form of ornamental filigree work on flimsy houses； ornamentation is apt to precede comfort in our civilization。
Roan Station is on the Doe River （which flows down from Roan Mountain）； and is marked at 1265 feet above the sea。 The visitor will find here a good hotel； with open wood fires （not ungrateful in a July evening）； and obliging people。 This railway from Johnson City； hanging on the edge of the precipices that wall the gorge of the Doe； is counted in this region by the inhabitants one of the engineering wonders of the world。 The tourist is urged by all means to see both it and Linville Falls。
The tourist on horseback； in search of exercise and recreation； is not probably expected to take stock of moral conditions。 But this Mitchell County； although it was a Union county during the war and is Republican in politics （the Southern reader will perhaps prefer another adverb to 〃although〃）； has had the worst possible reputation。 The mountains were hiding…places of illicit distilleries； the woods were full of grog…shanties； where the inflaming fluid was sold as 〃native brandy；〃 quarrels and neighborhood difficulties were frequent； and the knife and pistol were used on the slightest provocation。 Fights arose about boundaries and the title to mica mines； and with the revenue officers； and force was the arbiter of all disputes。 Within the year four murders were committed in the sparsely settled county。 Travel on any of the roads was unsafe。 The tone of morals was what might be expected with such lawlessness。 A lady who came up on the road on the 4th of July； when an excursion party of country people took possession of the cars； witnessed a scene and heard language past belief。 Men； women； and children drank from whisky bottles that continually circulated； and a wild orgy resulted。 Profanity； indecent talk on topics that even the license of the sixteenth century would not have tolerated； and freedom of manners that even Teniers would have shrunk from putting on canvas； made the journey horrible。
The unrestrained license of whisky and assault and murder had produced a reaction a few months previous to our visit。 The people had risen up in their indignation and broken up the groggeries。 So far as we observed temperance prevailed； backed by public…opinion。 In our whole ride through the mountain region we saw only one or two places where liquor was sold。
It is called twelve miles from Roan Station to Roan Summit。 The distance is probably nearer fourteen； and our horses were five hours in walking it。 For six miles the road runs by Doe River； here a pretty brook shaded with laurel and rhododendron； and a few cultivated patches of ground； and infrequent houses。 It was a blithe morning； and the horsemen would have given full indulgence to the spirit of adventure but for the attitude of the Professor towards mountains。 It was not with him a matter of feeling； but of principle； not to ascend them。 But here lay Roan； a long； sprawling ridge； lifting itself 6250 feet up into the sky。 Impossible to go around it； and the other side must be reached。 The Professor was obliged to surrender； and surmount a difficulty which he could not philosophize out of his mind。
》From the base of the mountain a road is very well engineered； in easy grades for carriages； to the top； but it was in poor repair and stony。 We mounted slowly through splendid forests； specially of fine chestnuts and hemlocks。 This big timber continues till within a mile and a half of the summit by the winding road； really within a short distance of the top。 Then there is a narrow belt of scrubby hardwood； moss…grown； and then large balsams； which crown the mountain。 As soon as we came out upon the southern slope we found great open spaces； covered with succulent grass； and giving excellent pasturage to cattle。 These rich mountain meadows are found on all the heights of this region。 The surface of Roan is uneven； and has no one culminating peak that commands the country； like the peak of Mount Washington； but several eminences within its range of probably a mile and a half； where various views can be had。 Near the highest point； sheltered from the north by balsams； stands a house of entertainment； with a detached cottage； looking across the great valley to the Black Mountain range。 The surface of the mountain is pebbly； but few rocks crop out； no ledges of any size are seen except at a distance from the hotel； on the north side； and the mountain consequently lacks that savage； unsubduable aspect which the White Hills of New Hampshire have。 It would； in fact； have been difficult to realize that we were over six thousand feet above the sea； except for that pallor in the sunlight； that atmospheric thinness and want of color which is an unpleasant characteristic of high altitudes。 To be sure； there is a certain brilliancy in the high air；it is apt to be foggy on Roan；and objects appear in sharp outline； but I have often experienced on such places that feeling of melancholy； which would； of course； deepen upon us all if we were sensible that the sun was gradually withdrawing its power of warmth and light。 The black balsam is neither a cheerful nor a picturesque tree； the frequent rains and mists on Roan keep the grass and mosses green； but the ground damp。 Doubtless a high mountain covered with vegetation has its compensation； but for me the naked granite rocks in sun and shower are more cheerful。
The advantage of Roan is that one can live there and be occupied for a long time in mineral and botanical study。 Its mild climate； moisture； and great elevation make it unique in this country for the botanist。 The variety of plants assembled there is very large； and there are many； we were told； never or rarely found elsewhere in the United States。 At any rate； the botanists rave about Roan Mountain； and spend weeks at a time on it。 We found there ladies who could draw for us Grey's lily （then passed）； and had kept specimens of the rhododendron （not growing elsewhere in this region） which has a deep red； almost purple color。
The hotel （since replaced by a good house） was a rude mountain structure； with a couple of comfortable rooms for office and sitting… room； in which big wood fires were blazing； for though the thermometer might record 60 deg。； as it did when we arrived； fire was welcome。 Sleeping…places partitioned off in the loft above gave the occupants a feeling of camping out； all the conveniences being primitive； and when the wind rose in the night and darkness； and the loose boards rattled and the timbers creaked； the sensation was not unlike that of being at sea。 The hotel was satisfactorily kept； and Southern guests； from as far south as New Orleans； were spending the season there； and not finding time hang heavy on their hands。 This statement is perhaps worth more than pages of description as to the character of Roan； and its contrast to Mount Washington。
The summer weather is exceedingly uncertain on all these North Carolina mountains； they are apt at any moment to be enveloped in mist； and it would rather rain on them than not。 On the afternoon of our arrival there was fine air and fair weather； but not a clear sky。 The distance was hazy； but the outlines were preserved。 We could see White Top； in Virginia； Grandfather Mountain； a long serrated range； the twin towers of Linville； and the entire range of the Black Mountains； rising from the valley； and apparently lower than we were。 They get the name of Black from the balsams which cover the summits。