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en with his throat clogged with dry meal； and utterly unable to speak。 The impartial John praised the victor in mock heroics； but said that the trial was so even that he would divide the prize； ten cents to one and five to the othera stroke of justice that greatly increased his popularity。 And then he dismissed the assembly； saying that he had promised the mayor to do so early； because he did not wish to run an opposition to the political meeting going on in the courthouse。
The scene in the large court…room was less animated than that out… doors； a half…dozen tallow dips； hung on the wall in sconces and stuck on the judge's long desk； feebly illuminated the mixed crowd of black and white who sat in； and on the backs of； the benches； and cast only a fitful light upon the orator； who paced back and forth and pounded the rail。 It was to have been a joint discussion between the two presidential electors running in that district； but； the Republican being absent； his place was taken by a young man of the town。 The Democratic orator took advantage of the absence of his opponent to describe the discussion of the night before； and to give a portrait of his adversary。 He was represented as a cross between a baboon and a jackass； who would be a natural curiosity for Barnum。 〃I intend；〃 said the orator；〃 to put him in a cage and exhibit him about the deestrict。〃 This political hit called forth great applause。 All his arguments were of this pointed character； and they appeared to be unanswerable。 The orator appeared to prove that there wasn't a respectable man in the opposite party who wasn't an office… holder； nor a white man of any kind in it who was not an office… holder。 If there were any issues or principles in the canvass； he paid his audience the compliment of knowing all about them； for he never alluded to any。 In another state of society； such a speech of personalities might have led to subsequent shootings； but no doubt his adversary would pay him in the same coin when next they met； and the exhibition seemed to be regarded down here as satisfactory and enlightened political canvassing for votes。 The speaker who replied； opened his address with a noble tribute to woman （as the first speaker had ended his）； directed to a dozen of that sex who sat in the gloom of a corner。 The young man was moderate in his sarcasm； and attempted to speak of national issues； but the crowd had small relish for that sort of thing。 At eleven o'clock； when we got away from the unsavory room （more than half the candles had gone out）； the orator was making slow headway against the refished blackguardism of the evening。 The german was still 〃on〃 at the hotel when we ascended to our chamber； satisfied that Asheville was a lively town。
The sojourner at Asheville can amuse himself very well by walking or driving to the many picturesque points of view about the town； livery stables abound； and the roads are good。 The Beau…catcher Hill is always attractive； and Connolly's； a private place a couple of miles from town； is ideally situated； being on a slight elevation in the valley； commanding the entire circuit of mountains； for it has the air of repose which is so seldom experienced in the location of a dwelling in America whence an extensive prospect is given。 Or if the visitor is disinclined to exertion； he may lounge in the rooms of the hospitable Asheville Club； or he may sit on the sidewalk in front of the hotels； and talk with the colonels and judges and generals and ex…members of Congress； the talk generally drifting to the new commercial and industrial life of the South； and only to politics as it affects these； and he will be pleased； if the conversation takes a reminiscent turn； with the lack of bitterness and the tone of friendliness。 The negro problem is commonly discussed philosophically and without heat； but there is always discovered； underneath； the determination that the negro shall never again get the legislative upper hand。 And the gentleman from South Carolina who has an upland farm； and is heartily glad slavery is gone； and wants the negro educated； when it comes to ascendency in politics such as the State once experiencedasks you what you would do yourself。 This is not the place to enter upon the politico…social question； but the writer may note one impression gathered from much friendly and agreeable conversation。 It is that the Southern whites misapprehend and make a scarecrow of 〃social equality。〃 When； during the war； it was a question at the North of giving the colored people of the Northern States the ballot； the argument against it used to be stated in the form of a question： 〃Do you want your daughter to marry a negro？〃 Well； the negro has his political rights in the North； and there has come no change in the social conditions whatever。 And there is no doubt that the social conditions would remain exactly as they are at the South if the negro enjoyed all the civil rights which the Constitution tries to give him。 The most sensible view of this whole question was taken by an intelligent colored man； whose brother was formerly a representative in Congress。 〃Social equality；〃 he said in effect； 〃is a humbug。 We do not expect it； we do not want it。 It does not exist among the blacks themselves。 We have our own social degrees； and choose our own associates。 We simply want the ordinary civil rights； under which we can live and make our way in peace and amity。 This is necessary to our self…respect； and if we have not self…respect； it is not to be supposed that the race can improve。 I'll tell you what I mean。 My wife is a modest； intelligent woman； of good manners； and she is always neat； and tastefully dressed。 Now； if she goes to take the cars； she is not permitted to go into a clean car with decent people； but is ordered into one that is repellent； and is forced into company that any refined woman would shrink from。 But along comes a flauntingly dressed woman； of known disreputable character； whom my wife would be disgraced to know； and she takes any place that money will buy。 It is this sort of thing that hurts。〃
We took the eastern train one evening to Round Nob （Henry's Station）； some thirty miles； in order to see the wonderful railway that descends； a distance of eight miles； from the summit of Swannanoa Gap （2657 feet elevation） to Round Nob Hotel （1607 feet）。 The Swannanoa Summit is the dividing line between the waters that flow to the Atlantic and those that go to the Gulf of Mexico。 This fact was impressed upon us by the inhabitants； who derive a good deal of comfort from it。 Such divides are always matter of local pride。 Unfortunately； perhaps； it was too dark before we reached Henry's to enable us to see the road in all its loops and parallels as it appears on the map； but we gained a better effect。 The hotel； when we first sighted it； all its windows blazing with light； was at the bottom of a well。 Beside itit was sufficiently light to see that a column of water sprang straight into the air to the height； as we learned afterwards from two official sources； of 225 and 265 feet； and the information was added that it is the highest fountain in the world。 This stout column； stiff as a flagstaff； with its feathery head of mist gleaming like silver in the failing light； had the most charming effect。 We passed out of sight of hotel and fountain； but were conscious of beingwhirled on a circular descending grade； and very soon they were in sight again。 Again and again they disappeared and came to view； now on one side and now on the other； until our train seemed to be bewitched； making frantic efforts by dodgings and turnings； now through tunnels and now over high pieces of trestle； to escape the inevitable attraction that was gravitating it down to the hospitable lights at the bottom of the well。 When we climbed back up the road in the morning； we had an opportunity to see the marvelous engineering； but there is little else to see； the view being nearly always very limited。
The hotel at the bottom of the ravine； on the side of Round Nob； offers little in the way of prospect； but it is a picturesque place； and we could understand why it was full of visitors when we came to the table。 It was probably the best…kept house of entertainment in the State； and being in the midst of the Black Hills； it offers good chances for fishing and mountain climbing。
In the morning the fountain； which is； of course； artificial； refused to play； the rain in the night having washed in debris which clogged the conduit。 But it soon freed itself and sent up for a long time； like a sulky geyser； mud and foul water。 When it got freedom and tolerable clearness； we noted that the water went up in pulsations； which were marked at short distances by the water falling off； giving the column the appearance of a spine。 The summit； always beating the air in efforts to rise higher； fell over in a veil of mist。
There are certain excursions that the sojourner at Asheville must make。 He must ride forty…five miles south through Henderson and Transylvania to Caesar's Head； on the South Carolina border； where the mountain system abruptly breaks down into the vast southern plain； where the observer； standing on the edge of