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empty your wallet for more new ones than you will ever have the means to
fill。 If you do succeed in tearing yourself away purse…whole； it is only to
fall a victim to some painted fans of so exquisite a make and decoration
that escape short of possession is impossible。 Opposed as stubbornly as
you may be to idle purchase at home； here you will find yourself the prey
of an acute case of shopping fever before you know it。 Nor will it be
much consolation subsequently to discover that you have squandered your
patrimony upon the most ordinary articles of every…day use。 If in despair
you turn for refuge to the booths； you will but have delivered yourself into
the embrace of still more irresistible fascinations。 For the nocturnal
squatters are there for the express purpose of catching the susceptible。
The shops were modestly attractive from their nature； but the booths
deliberately make eyes at you； and with telling effect。 The very
atmosphere is bewitching。 The lurid smurkiness of the torches lends an
appropriate weirdness to the figure of the uncouthly clad pedlar who； with
the politeness of the arch…fiend himself； displays to an eager group the
fatal fascinations of some new conceit。 Here the latest thing in
inventions； a gutta…percha rat； which； for reasons best known to the vender；
scampers about squeaking with a mimicry to shame the original； holds an
admiring crowd spellbound with mingled trepidation and delight。 There
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a native zoetrope； indefatigable round of pleasure； whose top fashioned
after the type of a turbine wheel enables a candle at the centre ingeniously
to supply both illumination and motive power at the same time； affords to
as many as can find room on its circumference a peep at the composite
antics of a consecutively pictured monkey in the act of jumping a box。
Beyond this 〃wheel of life〃 lies spread out on a mat a most happy family
of curios； the whole of which you are quite prepared to purchase en bloc。
While a little farther on stands a flower show which seems to be coyly
beckoning to you as the blossoms nod their heads to an imperceptible
breeze。 So one attraction fairly jostles its neighbor for recognition from
the gay thousands that like yourself stroll past in holiday delight。
Chattering children in brilliant colors； voluble women and talkative men in
quieter but no less picturesque costumes； stream on in kaleidoscopic
continuity。 And you； carried along by the current； wander thus for miles
with the tide of pleasure…seekers； till； late at night； when at last you turn
reluctantly homeward； you feel as one does when wakened from some too
delightful dream。
Or instead of night； suppose it day and the place a temple。 With
those who are entering you enter too through the outer gateway into the
courtyard。 At the farther end rises a building the like of which for
richness of effect you have probably never beheld or even imagined。 In
front of you a flight of white stone steps leads up to a terrace whose
parapet； also of stone； is diapered for half its height and open latticework
the rest。 This piazza gives entrance to a building or set of buildings
whose every detail challenges the eye。 Twelve pillars of snow…white wood
sheathed in part with bronze； arranged in four rows； make； as it were； the
bones of the structure。 The space between the centre columns lies open。
The other triplets are webbed in the middle and connected； on the sides
and front； by grilles of wood and bronze forming on the outside a couple
of embrasures on either hand the entrance in which stand the guardian Nio；
two colossal demons； Gog and Magog。 Instead of capitals ；a frieze
bristling with Chinese lions protects the top of the pillars。 Above this in
place of entablature rises tier upon tier of decoration； each tier projecting
beyond the one beneath； and the topmost of all terminating in a balcony
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which encircles the whole second story。 The parapet of this balcony is
one mass of ornament； and its cornice another row of lions； brown instead
of white。 The second story is no less crowded with carving。 Twelve
pillars make its ribs； the spaces between being filled with elaborate
woodwork； while on top rest more friezes； more cornices； clustered with
excrescences of all colors and kinds； and guarded by lions innumerable。
To begin to tell the details of so multi…faceted a gem were artistically
impossible。 It is a jewel of a thousand rays； yet whose beauties blend into
one as the prismatic tints combine to white。 And then； after the first
dazzle of admiration； when the spirit of curiosity urges you to penetrate
the centre aisle； lo and behold it is but a gate！ The dupe of unexpected
splendor； you have been paying court to the means of approach。 It is
only a portal after all。 For as you pass through； you catch a glimpse of a
building beyond more gorgeous still。 Like in general to the first； unlike it
in detail； resembling it only as the mistress may the maid。 But who shall
convince of charm by enumerating the features of a face！ From the tiles of
its terrace to the encrusted gables that drape it as with some rich
bejewelled mantle falling about it in the most graceful of folds； it is the
very eastern princess of a building standing in the majesty of her court to
give you audience。
A pebbly path； a low flight of stone steps； a pause to leave your shoes
without the sill； and you tread in the twilight of reverence upon the moss…
like mats within。 The richness of its outer ornament； so impressive at
first； is； you discover； but prelude to the lavish luxury of its interior。
Lacquer； bronze； pigments； deck its ceiling and its sides in such profusion
that it seems to you as if art had expanded； in the congenial atmosphere；
into a tropical luxuriance of decoration； and grew here as naturally on
temples as in the jungle creepers do on trees。 Yet all is but setting to
what the place contains； objects of bigotry and virtue that appeal to the
artistic as much as to the religious instincts of the devout。 More sacred
still are the things treasured in the sanctum of the priests。 There you will
find gems of art for whose sake only the most abnormal impersonality can
prevent you from breaking the tenth commandment。 Of the value set upon
them you can form a distant approximation from the exceeding richness
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and the amazing number of the silk cloths and lacquered boxes in which
they are so religiously kept。 As you gaze thus； amid the soul…satisfying
repose of the spot； at some masterpiece from the brush of Motonobu； you
find yourself wondering； in a fanciful sort of way； whether Buddhist
contemplation is not after all only another name for the contemplation of
the beautiful； since devotees to the one are ex officio such votaries of the
other。
Dissimilar as are these two glimpses of Japanese existence； in one
point the bustling street and the hushed temple are alike；in the nameless
grace that beautifies both。
This spirit is even more remarkable for its all…pervasiveness than for
its inherent excellence。 Both objectively and subjectively its catholicity
is remarkable。 It imbues everything； and affects everybody。 So
universally is it applied to the daily affairs of life that there may be said to
be no mechanical arts in Japan simply because all such have been raised to
the position of fine arts。 The lowest artisan is