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Every pattern was marked； to show to which sort it belonged。 The first femme de chambre presented this book to the Queen on her awaking； with a pincushion； her Majesty stuck pins in those articles which she chose for the day； …one for the dress； one for the afternoon…undress； and one for the full evening dress for card or supper parties in the private apartments。 The book was then taken back to the wardrobe； and all that was wanted for the day was soon after brought in in large taffety wrappers。 The wardrobe woman； who had the care of the linen； in her turn brought in a covered basket containing two or three chemises and handkerchiefs。 The morning basket was called pret du jour。 In the evening she brought in one containing the nightgown and nightcap； and the stockings for the next morning； this basket was called pret de la nuit。 They were in the department of the lady of honour； the tirewoman having nothing to do with the linen。 Nothing was put in order or taken care of by the Queen's women。 As soon as the toilet was over； the valets and porter belonging to the wardrobe were called in； and they carried all away in a heap； in the taffety wrappers； to the tirewoman's wardrobe； where all were folded up again； hung up； examined； and cleaned with so much regularity and care that even the cast…off clothes scarcely looked as if they had been worn。 The tirewoman's wardrobe consisted of three large rooms surrounded with closets； some furnished with drawers and others with shelves； there were also large tables in each of these rooms； on which the gowns and dresses were spread out and folded up。
For the winter the Queen had generally twelve full dresses； twelve undresses called fancy dresses； and twelve rich hoop petticoats for the card and supper parties in the smaller apartments。
She had as many for the summer； those for the spring served likewise for the autumn。 All these dresses were discarded at the end of each season； unless； indeed； she retained some that she particularly liked。 I am not speaking of muslin or cambric gowns； or others of the same kindthey were lately introduced； but such as these were not renewed at each returning season； they were kept several years。 The chief women were charged with the care and examination of the diamonds； this important duty was formerly confided to the tirewoman； but for many years had been included in the business of the first femmes de chambre。
The public toilet took place at noon。 The toilet…table was drawn forward into the middle of the room。 This piece of furniture was generally the richest and most ornamented of all in the apartment of the Princesses。 The Queen used it in the same manner and place for undressing herself in the evening。 She went to bed in corsets trimmed with ribbon； and sleeves trimmed with lace； and wore a large neck handkerchief。 The Queen's combing cloth was presented by her first woman if she was alone at the commencement of the toilet； or； as well as the other articles； by the ladies of honour if they were come。 At noon the women who had been in attendance four and twenty hours were relieved by two women in full dress； the first woman went also to dress herself。 The grandee entrees were admitted during the toilet； sofas were placed in circles for the superintendent； the ladies of honour； and tirewomen； and the governess of the children of France when she came there； the duties of the ladies of the bedchamber； having nothing to do with any kind of domestic or private functions； did not begin until the hour of going out to mass； they waited in the great closet； and entered when the toilet was over。 The Princes of the blood； captains of the Guards； and all great officers having the entry paid their court at the hour of the toilet。 The Queen saluted by nodding her head or bending her body； or leaning upon her toilet…table as if moving to rise； the last mode of salutation was for the Princes of the blood。 The King's brothers also came very generally to pay their respects to her Majesty while her hair was being dressed。 In the earlier years of the reign the first part of the dressing was performed in the bedchamber and according to the laws of etiquette； that is to say； the lady of honour put on the chemise and poured out the water for the hands； the tirewoman put on the skirt of the gown or full dress； adjusted the handkerchief； and tied on the necklace。 But when the young Queen became more seriously devoted to fashion； and the head…dress attained so extravagant a height that it became necessary to put on the chemise from below；when； in short； she determined to have her milliner； Mademoiselle Benin； with her whilst she was dressing； whom the ladies would have refused to admit to any share in the honour of attending on the Queen； the dressing in the bedchamber was discontinued； and the Queen； leaving her toilet； withdrew into her closet to dress。
On returning into her chamber； the Queen； standing about the middle of it； surrounded by the superintendent； the ladies of honour and tirewomen； her ladies of the palace； the chevalier d'honneur； the chief equerry； her clergy ready to attend her to mass； and the Princesses of the royal family who happened to come； accompanied by all their chief attendants and ladies； passed in order into the gallery as in going to mass。 The Queen's signatures were generally given at the moment of entry into the chamber。 The secretary for orders presented the pen。 Presentations of colonels on taking leave were usually made at this time。 Those of ladies； and； such as had a right to the tabouret； or sitting in the royal presence； were made on Sunday evenings before card…playing began； on their coming in from paying their respects。 Ambassadors were introduced to the Queen on Tuesday mornings； accompanied by the introducer of ambassadors on duty； and by M。 de Sequeville； the secretary for the ambassadors。 The introducer in waiting usually came to the Queen at her toilet to apprise her of the presentations of foreigners which would be made。 The usher of the chamber； stationed at the entrance； opened the folding doors to none but the Princes and Princesses of the royal family； and announced them aloud。 Quitting his post； he came forward to name to the lady of honour the persons who came to be presented； or who came to take leave； that lady again named them to the Queen at the moment they saluted her； if she and the tirewoman were absent； the first woman took the place and did that duty。 The ladies of the bedchamber； chosen solely as companions for the Queen； had no domestic duties to fulfil； however opinion might dignify such offices。 The King's letter in appointing them； among other instructions of etiquette； ran thus： 〃having chosen you to bear the Queen company。〃 There were hardly any emoluments accruing from this place。
The Queen heard mass with the King in the tribune； facing the grand altar and the choir； with the exception of the days of high ceremony； when their chairs were placed below upon velvet carpets fringed with gold。 These days were marked by the name of grand chapel day。
The Queen named the collector beforehand； and informed her of it through her lady of honour； who was besides desired to send the purse to her。 The collectors were almost always chosen from among those who had been recently presented。 After returning from mass the Queen dined every Sunday with the King only； in public in the cabinet of the nobility； a room leading to her chamber。 Titled ladies having the honours sat during the dinner upon folding…chairs placed on each side of the table。 Ladies without titles stood round the table； the captain of the Guards and the first gentleman of the chamber were behind the King's chair； behind that of the Queen were her first maitre d'hotel； her chevalier d'honneur； and the chief equerry。 The Queen's maitre d'hotel was furnished with a large staff； six or seven feet in length； ornamented with golden fleurs…de…lis； and surmounted by fleurs…de…lis in the form of a crown。 He entered the room with this badge of his office to announce that the Queen was served。 The comptroller put into his hands the card of the dinner； in the absence of the maitre d'hotel he presented it to the Queen himself； otherwise he only did him the honours of the service。 The maitre d'hotel did not leave his place； he merely gave the orders for serving up and removing； the comptroller and gentlemen serving placed the various dishes upon the table； receiving them from the inferior servants。
The Prince nearest to the crown presented water to wash the King's hands at the moment he placed himself at table； and a princess did the same service to the Queen。
The table service was formerly performed for the Queen by the lady of honour and four women in full dress； this part of the women's service was transferred to them on the suppression of the office of maids of honour。 The Queen put an end to this etiquette in the first year of her reign。 When the dinner was over the Queen returned without the King to her apartment with her women； and took off her hoop and train。
This unfortunate Princess； against whom the opinions of the French people were at length so much excited； possessed qualities which deserved to obtain th