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Two days later we were approaching the shore of the River Uri when we met two Russian riders； who were the Cossacks of a certain Ataman Sutunin； acting against the Bolsheviki in the valley of the River Selenga。 They were riding to carry a message from Sutunin to Kaigorodoff； chief of the Anti…Bolsheviki in the Altai region。 They informed us that along the whole Russian…Mongolian border the Bolshevik troops were scattered； also that Communist agitators had penetrated to Kiakhta； Ulankom and Kobdo and had persuaded the Chinese authorities to surrender to the Soviet authorities all the refugees from Russia。 We knew that in the neighborhood of Urga and Van Kure engagements were taking place between the Chinese troops and the detachments of the Anti…Bolshevik Russian General Baron Ungern Sternberg and Colonel Kazagrandi； who were fighting for the independence of Outer Mongolia。 Baron Ungern had now been twice defeated； so that the Chinese were carrying on high…handed in Urga； suspecting all foreigners of having relations with the Russian General。
We realized that the whole situation was sharply reversed。 The route to the Pacific was closed。 Reflecting very carefully over the problem； I decided that we had but one possible exit left。 We must avoid all Mongolian cities with Chinese administration； cross Mongolia from north to south； traverse the desert in the southern part of the Principality of Jassaktu Khan； enter the Gobi in the western part of Inner Mongolia； strike as rapidly as possible through sixty miles of Chinese territory in the Province of Kansu and penetrate into Tibet。 Here I hoped to search out one of the English Consuls and with his help to reach some English port in India。 I understood thoroughly all the difficulties incident to such an enterprise but I had no other choice。 It only remained to make this last foolish attempt or to perish without doubt at the hands of the Boisheviki or languish in a Chinese prison。 When I announced my plan to my companions； without in any way hiding from them all its dangers and quixotism； all of them answered very quickly and shortly： 〃Lead us！ We will follow。〃
One circumstance was distinctly in our favor。 We did not fear hunger； for we had some supplies of tea； tobacco and matches and a surplus of horses； saddles； rifles； overcoats and boots； which were an excellent currency for exchange。 So then we began to initiate the plan of the new expedition。 We should start to the south； leaving the town of Uliassutai on our right and taking the direction of Zaganluk； then pass through the waste lands of the district of Balir of Jassaktu Khan； cross the Naron Khuhu Gobi and strike for the mountains of Boro。 Here we should be able to take a long rest to recuperate the strength of our horses and of ourselves。 The second section of our journey would be the passage through the western part of Inner Mongolia； through the Little Gobi； through the lands of the Torguts； over the Khara Mountains； across Kansu； where our road must be chosen to the west of the Chinese town of Suchow。 From there we should have to enter the Dominion of Kuku Nor and then work on southward to the head waters of the Yangtze River。 Beyond this I had but a hazy notion； which however I was able to verify from a map of Asia in the possession of one of the officers； to the effect that the mountain chains to the west of the sources of the Yangtze separated that river system from the basin of the Brahmaputra in Tibet Proper； where I expected to be able to find English assistance。
CHAPTER XV
THE MARCH OF GHOSTS
In no other way can I describe the journey from the River Ero to the border of Tibet。 About eleven hundred miles through the snowy steppes； over mountains and across deserts we traveled in forty… eight days。 We hid from the people as we journeyed； made short stops in the most desolate places； fed for whole weeks on nothing but raw； frozen meat in order to avoid attracting attention by the smoke of fires。 Whenever we needed to purchase a sheep or a steer for our supply department； we sent out only two unarmed men who represented to the natives that they were the workmen of some Russian colonists。 We even feared to shoot； although we met a great herd of antelopes numbering as many as five thousand head。 Behind Balir in the lands of the Lama Jassaktu Khan； who had inherited his throne as a result of the poisoning of his brother at Urga by order of the Living Buddha； we met wandering Russian Tartars who had driven their herds all the way from Altai and Abakan。 They welcomed us very cordially； gave us oxen and thirty… six bricks of tea。 Also they saved us from inevitable destruction； for they told us that at this season it was utterly impossible for horses to make the trip across the Gobi； where there was no grass at all。 We must buy camels by exchanging for them our horses and some other of our bartering supplies。 One of the Tartars the next day brought to their camp a rich Mongol with whom he drove the bargain for this trade。 He gave us nineteen camels and took all our horses； one rifle； one pistol and the best Cossack saddle。 He advised us by all means to visit the sacred Monastery of Narabanchi； the last Lamaite monastery on the road from Mongolia to Tibet。 He told us that the Holy Hutuktu； 〃the Incarnate Buddha；〃 would be greatly offended if we did not visit the monastery and his famous 〃Shrine of Blessings；〃 where all travelers going to Tibet always offered prayers。 Our Kalmuck Lamaite supported the Mongol in this。 I decided to go there with the Kalmuck。 The Tartars gave me some big silk hatyk as presents and loaned us four splendid horses。 Although the monastery was fifty…five miles distant； by nine o'clock in the evening I entered the yurta of this holy Hutuktu。
He was a middle…aged； clean shaven； spare little man； laboring under the name of Jelyb Djamsrap Hutuktu。 He received us very cordially and was greatly pleased with the presentation of the hatyk and with my knowledge of the Mongol etiquette in which my Tartar had been long and persistently instructing me。 He listened to me most attentively and gave valuable advice about the road； presenting me then with a ring which has since opened for me the doors of all Lamaite monasteries。 The name of this Hutuktu is highly esteemed not only in all Mongolia but in Tibet and in the Lamaite world of China。 We spent the night in his splendid yurta and on the following morning visited the shrines where they were conducting very solemn services with the music of gongs； tom…toms and whistling。 The Lamas with their deep voices were intoning the prayers while the lesser priests answered with their antiphonies。 The sacred phrase： 〃Om！ Mani padme Hung！〃 was endlessly repeated。
The Hutuktu wished us success； presented us with a large yellow hatyk and accompanied us to the monastery gate。 When we were in our saddles he said：
〃Remember that you are always welcome guests here。 Life is very complicated and anything may happen。 Perhaps you will be forced in future to re…visit distant Mongolia and then do not miss Narabanchi Kure。〃
That night we returned to the Tartars and the next day continued our journey。 As I was very tired； the slow； easy motion of the camel was welcome and restful to me。 All the day I dozed off at intervals to sleep。 It turned out to be very disastrous for me； for； when my camel was going up the steep bank of a river； in one of my naps I fell off and hit my head on a stone； lost consciousness and woke up to find my overcoat covered with blood。 My friends surrounded me with their frightened faces。 They bandaged my head and we started off again。 I only learned long afterwards from a doctor who examined me that I had cracked my skull as the price of my siesta。
We crossed the eastern ranges of the Altai and the Karlik Tag； which are the most oriental sentinels the great Tian Shan system throws out into the regions of the Gobi； and then traversed from the north to the south the entire width of the Khuhu Gobi。 Intense cold ruled all this time and fortunately the frozen sands gave us better speed。 Before passing the Khara range； we exchanged our rocking…chair steeds for horses； a deal in which the Torguts skinned us badly like the true 〃old clothes men〃 they are。
Skirting around these mountains we entered Kansu。 It was a dangerous move； for the Chinese were arresting all refugees and I feared for my Russian fellow…travelers。 During the days we hid in the ravines； the forests and bushes； making forced marches at night。 Four days we thus used in this passage of Kansu。 The few Chinese peasants we did encounter were peaceful appearing and most hospitable。 A marked sympathetic interest surrounded the Kalmuck； who could speak a bit of Chinese； and my box of medicines。 Everywhere we found many ill people； chiefly afflicted with eye troubles； rheumatism and skin diseases。
As we were approaching Nan Shan； the northeast branch of the Altyn Tag （which is in turn the east branch of the Pamir and Karakhorum system）； we overhauled a large caravan of Chinese merchants going to Tibet and joined them。 For three days we were winding through the endless ravine…like valleys of these mountains and ascending the high