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first across the continent-第14章

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roar; and such was his extraordinary tenacity of life; that; although he had five balls passed through his lungs; and five other wounds; he swam more than half across the river to a sand…bar; and survived twenty minutes。 He weighed between five and six hundred pounds at least; and measured eight feet seven inches and a half from the nose to the extremity of the hind feet; five feet ten inches and a half round the breast; three feet eleven inches round the neck; one foot eleven inches round the middle of the fore leg; and his claws five on each foot; were four inches and three…eighths in length。 This animal differs from the common black bear in having his claws much longer and more blunt; his tail shorter; his hair of a reddish or bay brown; longer; finer; and more abundant; his liver; lungs; and heart much larger even in proportion to his size; the heart; particularly; being equal to that of a large ox; and his maw ten times larger。  Besides fish and flesh; he feeds on roots and every kind of wild fruit。〃

On May 8 the party discovered the largest and most important of the northern tributaries of the Upper Missouri。  The journal thus describes the stream:

〃Its width at the entrance is one hundred and fifty yards; on going three miles up; Captain Lewis found it to be of the same breadth and sometimes more; it is deep; gentle; and has a large quantity of water; its bed is principally of mud; the banks are abrupt; about twelve feet in height; and formed of a dark; rich loam and blue clay; the low grounds near it are wide and fertile; and possess a considerable proportion of cottonwood and willow。 It seems to be navigable for boats and canoes; by this circumstance; joined to its course and quantity of water; which indicates that it passes through a large extent of country; we are led to presume that it may approach the Saskaskawan 'Saskatchewan' and afford a communication with that river。  The water has a peculiar whiteness; such as might be produced by a tablespoonful of milk in a dish of tea; and this circumstance induced us to call it Milk River。〃

Modern geography shows that the surmise of Captain Lewis was correct。 Some of the tributaries of Milk River (the Indian name of which signifies 〃The River that Scolds at all Others〃) have their rise near St。 Mary's River; which is one of the tributaries of the Saskatchewan; in British America。

The explorers were surprised to find the bed of a dry river; as deep and as wide as the Missouri itself; about fifteen miles above Milk River。  Although it had every appearance of a water…course; it did not discharge a drop of water。 Their journal says:

〃It passes through a wide valley without timber; the surrounding country consists of waving low hills; interspersed with some handsome level plains; the banks are abrupt; and consist of a black or yellow clay; or of a rich sandy loam; though they do not rise more than six or eight feet above the bed; they exhibit no appearance of being overflowed; the bed is entirely composed of a light brown sand; the particles of which; like those of the Missouri; are extremely fine。  Like the dry rivers we passed before; this seemed to have discharged its waters recently; but the watermark indicated that its greatest depth had not been more than two feet。 This stream; if it deserve the name; we called Bigdry 'Big Dry' River。〃

And Big Dry it remains on the maps unto this day。 In this region the party recorded this observation:

〃The game is now in great quantities; particularly the elk and buffalo; which last is so gentle that the men are obliged to drive them out of the way with sticks and stones。  The ravages of the beaver are very apparent; in one place the timber was entirely prostrated for a space of three acres in front on the river and one in depth; and great part of it removed; though the trees were in large quantities; and some of them as thick as the body of a man。

Yet so great have been the ravages of man among these gentle creatures; that elk are now very rarely found in the region; and the buffalo have almost utterly disappeared from the face of the earth。 Just after the opening of the Northern Pacific Railway; in 1883; a band of sixty buffaloes were heard of; far to the southward of Bismarck; and a party was organized to hunt them。 The BOLD hunters afterwards boasted that they killed every one of this little band of survivors of their race。

The men were now (in the middle of May) greatly troubled with boils; abscesses; and inflamed eyes; caused by the poison of the alkali that covered much of the ground and corrupted the water。 Here is an entry in the journal of May 11:

〃About five in the afternoon one of our men 'Bratton'; who had been afflicted with boils and suffered to walk on shore; came running to the boats with loud cries; and every symptom of terror and distress。 For some time after we had taken him on board he was so much out of breath as to be unable to describe the cause of his anxiety; but he at length told us that about a mile and a half below he had shot a brown bear; which immediately turned and was in close pursuit of him; but the bear being badly wounded could not overtake him。 Captain Lewis; with seven men; immediately went in search of him; having found his track they followed him by the blood for a mile; found him concealed in some thick brushwood; and shot him with two balls through the skull。  Though somewhat smaller than that killed a few days ago; he was a monstrous animal; and a most terrible enemy。 Our man had shot him through the centre of the lungs; yet he had pursued him furiously for half a mile; then returned more than twice that distance; and with his talons prepared himself a bed in the earth two feet deep and five feet long; he was perfectly alive when they found him; which was at least two hours after he had received the wound。 The wonderful power of life which these animals possess renders them dreadful; their very track in the mud or sand; which we have sometimes found eleven inches long and seven and one…fourth wide; exclusive of the talons; is alarming; and we had rather encounter two Indians than meet a single brown bear。  There is no chance of killing them by a single shot unless the ball goes through the brain; and this is very difficult on account of two large muscles which cover the side of the forehead and the sharp projection of the centre of the frontal bone; which is also thick。

〃Our camp was on the south; at the distance of sixteen miles from that of last night。  The fleece and skin of the bear were a heavy burden for two men; and the oil amounted to eight gallons。〃

The name of the badly…scared Bratton was bestowed upon a creek which discharges into the Missouri near the scene of this encounter。 Game continued to be very abundant。  On the fourteenth; according to the journal; the hunters were hunted; to their great discomfiture。 The account says:

〃Toward evening the men in the hindmost canoes discovered a large brown 'grizzly' bear lying in the open grounds; about three hundred paces from the river。  Six of them; all good hunters; immediately went to attack him; and concealing themselves by a small eminence came unperceived within forty paces of him。 Four of the hunters now fired; and each lodged a ball in his body; two of them directly through the lungs。 The furious animal sprang up and ran open…mouthed upon them。

〃As he came near; the two hunters who had reserved their fire gave him two wounds; one of which; breaking his shoulder; retarded his motion for a moment; but before they could reload he was so near that they were obliged to run to the river; and before they had reached it he had almost overtaken them。 Two jumped into the canoe; the other four separated; and; concealing themselves in the willows; fired as fast as they could reload。 They struck him several times; but; instead of weakening the monster; each shot seemed only to direct him towards the hunters; till at last he pursued two of them so closely that they threw aside their guns and pouches; and jumped down a perpendicular bank of twenty feet into the river:  the bear sprang after them; and was within a few feet of the hindmost; when one of the hunters on shore shot him in the head; and finally killed him。 They dragged him to the shore; and found that eight balls had passed through him in different directions。  The bear was old; and the meat tough; so that they took the skin only; and rejoined us at camp; where we had been as much terrified by an accident of a different kind。

〃This was the narrow escape of one of our canoes; containing all our papers; instruments; medicine; and almost every article indispensable for the success of our enterprise。  The canoe being under sail; a sudden squall of wind struck her obliquely and turned her considerably。 The man at the helm; who was unluckily the worst steersman of the party; became alarmed; and; instead of putting her before the wind; luffed her up into it。  The wind was so high that it forced the brace of the square…sail out of the hand of the man who was attending it; and instantly upset the canoe; which would have been turned bottom upward but for the resistance made by the awning。  Such was the confusion on board; and the waves ran so high; that it was ha
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