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s a small merchant…brig and another a large ship apparently dismasted。 At last we saw a boat coming out to meet us; and when it came alongside; we were surprised to find Lieutenant Henry Wise; master of the Independence frigate; that we had left at Valparaiso。 Wise had come off to pilot us to our anchorage。 While giving orders to the man at the wheel; he; in his peculiar fluent style; told to us; gathered about him; that the Independence had sailed from Valparaiso a week after us and had been in Monterey a week; that the Californians had broken out into an insurrection; that the naval fleet under Commodore Stockton was all down the coast about San Diego; that General Kearney had reached the country; but had had a severe battle at San Pascual; and had been worsted; losing several officers and men; himself and others wounded; that war was then going on at Los Angeles; that the whole country was full of guerrillas; and that recently at Yerba Buena the alcalde; Lieutenant Bartlett; United States Navy; while out after cattle; had been lassoed; etc。; etc。 Indeed; in the short space of time that Wise was piloting our ship in; he told us more news than we could have learned on shore in a week; and; being unfamiliar with the great distances; we imagined that we should have to debark and begin fighting at once。 Swords were brought out; guns oiled and made ready; and every thing was in a bustle when the old Lexington dropped her anchor on January 26; 1847; in Monterey Bay; after a voyage of one hundred and ninety…eight days from New York。 Every thing on shore looked bright and beautiful; the hills covered with grass and flowers; the live…oaks so serene and homelike; and the low adobe houses; with red…tiled roofs and whitened walls; contrasted well with the dark pine…trees behind; making a decidedly good impression upon us who had come so far to spy out the land。 Nothing could be more peaceful in its looks than Monterey in January; 1847。 We had already made the acquaintance of Commodore Shubrick and the officers of the Independence in Valparaiso; so that we again met as old friends。 Immediate preparations were made for landing; and; as I was quartermaster and commissary; I had plenty to do。 There was a small wharf and an adobe custom…house in possession of the navy; also a barrack of two stories; occupied by some marines; commanded by Lieutenant Maddox; and on a hill to the west of the town had been built a two…story block…house of hewed logs occupied by a guard of sailors under command of Lieutenant Baldwin; United States Navy。 Not a single modern wagon or cart was to be had in Monterey; nothing but the old Mexican cart with wooden wheels; drawn by two or three pairs of oxen; yoked by the horns。 A man named Tom Cole had two or more of these; and he came into immediate requisition。 The United States consul; and most prominent man there at the time; was Thomas O。 Larkin; who had a store and a pretty good two…story house occupied by his family。 It was soon determined that our company was to land and encamp on the hill at the block…house; and we were also to have possession of the warehouse; or custom…house; for storage。 The company was landed on the wharf; and we all marched in full dress with knapsacks and arms; to the hill and relieved the guard under Lieutenant Baldwin。 Tents and camp…equipage were hauled up; and soon the camp was established。 I remained in a room at the customhouse; where I could superintend the landing of the stores and their proper distribution。 I had brought out from Now York twenty thousand dollars commissary funds; and eight thousand dollars quartermaster funds; and as the ship contained about six months' supply of provisions; also a saw…mill; grist…mill; and almost every thing needed; we were soon established comfortably。 We found the people of Monterey a mixed set of Americans; native Mexicans; and Indians; about one thousand all told。 They were kind and pleasant; and seemed to have nothing to do; except such as owned ranches in the country for the rearing of horses and cattle。 Horses could be bought at any price from four dollars up to sixteen; but no horse was ever valued above a doubloon or Mexican ounce (sixteen dollars)。 Cattle cost eight dollars fifty cents for the best; and this made beef net about two cents a pound; but at that time nobody bought beef by the pound; but by the carcass。
Game of all kindselk; deer; wild geese; and duckswas abundant; but coffee; sugar; and small stores; were rare and costly。
There were some half…dozen shops or stores; but their shelves were empty。 The people were very fond of riding; dancing; and of shows of any kind。 The young fellows took great delight in showing off their horsemanship; and would dash along; picking up a half…dollar from the ground; stop their horses in full career and turn about on the space of a bullock's hide; and their skill with the lasso was certainly wonderful。 At full speed they could cast their lasso about the horns of a bull; or so throw it as to catch any particular foot。 These fellows would work all day on horseback in driving cattle or catching wildhorses for a mere nothing; but all the money offered would not have hired one of them to walk a mile。 The girls were very fond of dancing; and they did dance gracefully and well。 Every Sunday; regularly; we had a baile; or dance; and sometimes interspersed through the week。
I remember very well; soon after our arrival; that we were all invited to witness a play called 〃Adam and Eve。〃 Eve was personated by a pretty young girl known as Dolores Gomez; who; however; was dressed very unlike Eve; for she was covered with a petticoat and spangles。 Adam was personated by her brotherthe same who has since become somewhat famous as the person on whom is founded the McGarrahan claim。 God Almighty was personated; and heaven's occupants seemed very human。 Yet the play was pretty; interesting; and elicited universal applause。 All the month of February we were by day preparing for our long stay in the country; and at night making the most of the balls and parties of the most primitive kind; picking up a smattering of Spanish; and extending our acquaintance with the people and the costumbrea del pais。 I can well recall that Ord and I; impatient to look inland; got permission and started for the Mission of San Juan Bautista。 Mounted on horses; and with our carbines; we took the road by El Toro; quite a prominent hill; around which passes the road to the south; following the Saunas or Monterey River。 After about twenty miles over a sandy country covered with oak…bushes and scrub; we entered quite a pretty valley in which there was a ranch at the foot of the Toro。 Resting there a while and getting some information; we again started in the direction of a mountain to the north of the Saunas; called the Gavillano。 It was quite dark when we reached the Saunas River; which we attempted to pass at several points; but found it full of water; and the quicksands were bad。 Hearing the bark of a dog; we changed our course in that direction; and; on hailing; were answered by voices which directed us where to cross。 Our knowledge of the language was limited; but we managed to understand; and to founder through the sand and water; and reached a small adobe…horse on the banks of the Salinas; where we spent the night: The house was a single room; without floor or glass; only a rude door; and window with bars。 Not a particle of food but meat; yet the man and woman entertained us with the language of lords put themselves; their house; and every thing; at our 〃disposition;〃 and made little barefoot children dance for our entertainment。 We made our supper of beef; and slept on a bullock's hide on the dirt…floor。 In the morning we crossed the Salinas Plain; about fifteen miles of level ground; taking a shot occasionally at wild…geese; which abounded there; and entering the well…wooded valley that comes out from the foot of the Gavillano。 We had cruised about all day; and it was almost dark when we reached the house of a Senor Gomez; father of those who at Monterey had performed the parts of Adam and Eve。 His house was a two…story adobe; and had a fence in front。 It was situated well up among the foot…hills of the Gavillano; and could not be seen until within a few yards。 We hitched our horses to the fence and went in just as Gomez was about to sit down to a tempting supper of stewed hare and tortillas。 We were officers and caballeros and could not be ignored。 After turning our horses to grass; at his invitation we joined him at supper。 The allowance; though ample for one; was rather short for three; and I thought the Spanish grandiloquent politeness of Gomez; who was fat and old; was not over…cordial。 However; down we sat; and I was helped to a dish of rabbit; with what I thought to be an abundant sauce of tomato。 Taking a good mouthful; I felt as though I had taken liquid fire; the tomato was chile colorado; or red pepper; of the purest kind。 It nearly killed me; and I saw Gomez's eyes twinkle; for he saw that his share of supper was increased。 I contented myself with bits of the meat; and an abundant supply of tortillas。 Ord was better case…hardened; and stood it better。 We staid at Gomez's