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and there I slept right royally amid the relics of former splendor；
doubting a little whether some unlaid ghost of bygone times might not
come to claim his own； and oust me at black midnight by the rats； his
retinue。
But nothing short of the sun called me back to consciousness and bade
me open to the tiny garden； where a pair of ducks were preening their
feathers after an early bath in their own little lake。 On the
veranda my lake already stood prepared； a brass basin upon a wooden
stand； according to the custom of the country。 So ducks and I
dabbled and prinked in all innocence in the garden； which might well
have been the garden of Eden for any hint it gave of a world beyond。
It was my fate； too； to leave it after the same manner。
For breakfast over we were once more of the road。
We had a long day of it before us； for I purposed to cross the Etchiu
delta and sleep that night on the threshold of my hopes。 The day；
like all days that look long on the map； proved still longer on the
march。 Its itinerary diversified discomfort。 First seventeen miles
in kuruma； then a ferry； then a tramp of twelve miles along the beach
through a series of sand dunes； then another ferry； and finally a
second walk of seven miles and a half over some foothills to top off
with。 The inexpensiveness of the transport was the sole relieving
feature of the day。 Not； I mean； because the greater and worse half
of the journey was done on our own feet； but because of the cheap
charges of the chaises and even of the porters。 To run at a dogtrot；
trundling another in a baby carriage； seventeen miles for twenty
cents is not； I hold； an extortionate price。 Certain details of the
tariff； however； are peculiar。 For instance； if two men share the
work by running tandem； the fare is more than doubled； a ratio in the
art of proportion surprising at first。 Each man would seem to charge
for being helped。 The fact is； the greater speed expected of the
pair more than offsets the decreased draft。
Otherwise； as I say； the day was depressing。 It was not merely the
tramp through the sand dunes that was regrettable； though heaven
knows I would not willingly take it again。 The sand had far too
hospitable a trick of holding on to you at every step to be to my
liking。 Besides； the sun； which had come out with summer insistence；
chose that particular spot for its midday siesta； and lay there at
full length； while the air was preternaturally still。 It was a
stupidly drowsy heat that gave no fillip to the feet。
But such discomfort was merely by the way。 The real trouble began at
Fushiki； the town on the farther side of the second ferry。 In the
first place the spot had； what is most uncommon in Japan； a very
sorry look； which was depressing in itself。 Secondly； its inhabitants
were much too busy or much too unemployed； or both； to be able to
attend to strangers at that hour of the afternoon。 Consequently it
was almost impossible to get any one to carry the baggage。
We dispatched emissaries； however。 By good luck we secured some beer；
and then argued ourselves dry again on the luggage question。
The emissaries were at work； we were assured； and at last some one
who had been sent for was said to be coming。 Still time dragged on；
until finally the burden bearers turned up； and turned out to
bewomen。
At this I rebelled。 The situation was not new； but it was none the
less impossible。 In out…of…the…way districts I had refused offers of
the kind before。 For Japanese beasts of burden run in a decreasing
scale as follows； according to the poverty of the place： jinrikisha；
horses； bulls； men； women。 I draw my line at the last。 I am well
aware how absurd the objects themselves regard such a protective
policy； but I cling to my prejudices。 To the present proffer I was
adamant。 To step jauntily along in airy unencumberedness myself；
while a string of women trudged wearily after； loaded with my heavy
personal effects； was more than an Anglo…Saxon attitude towards the
sex could stand。 I would none of them； to the surprise and dismay of
the inn landlord； and to the no slight wonder of the women。
The discarding was not an easy piece of work。 The fair ones were
present at it； and I have no doubt misinterpreted the motive。
For women have a weakness for a touch of the slave…master in a man。
Beside； 〃hell hath no fury like a woman scorned；〃 though it be only
in the capacity of a porter。 There was nothing for it； however； but
to let it go at that。 For to have explained with more insistence
would infallibly have deepened their suspicions of wounded vanity。
But it did seem hard to be obliged to feel a brute for refusing to be
one。
The landlord； thanks to my importunities； managed after some further
delay to secure a couple of lusty lads； relatives； I suspect； of the
discarded fair ones； and with them we eventually set out。 We had not
gone far； when I came to consider； unjustly； no doubt； that they
journeyed too slow。 I might have thought differently had I carried
the chattels and they the purse。 I shuddered to think what the
situation would have been with women； for then even the poor solace
of remonstrance would have been denied。 As it was； I spent much
breath in trying to hurry them； and it is pleasanter now than it was
then to reflect how futilely。 For I rated them roundly； while they
accepted my verbal goadings with the trained stolidity of folk who
were used to it。
When at last we approached the village of our destination； which bore
the name of Himi； it was already dusk； and this with the long May
twilight meant a late hour before we should be comfortably housed。
Indeed； I had been quartered in anticipation for the last few miles；
and was only awaiting arrival to enter into instant possession of my
fancied estate。 Not content even with pure insubstantiality； I had
interviewed various people through Yejiro on the subject。 First； the
porters had been exhaustively catechized； and then what wayfarers we
chanced to meet had been buttonholed beside； with the result of much
contradictory information。 There seemed to be an inn which was；
I will not say good； but the best； but no two informants could agree
in calling it by name。 One thought he remembered that the North Inn
was the place to go to； another that he had heard the Wistaria House
specially commended。
All doubts； however； were set at rest when we reached the town。
For without the slightest hesitation； every one of the houses in
question refused to take us in。 The unanimity was wonderful
considering the lack of collusion。 Yejiro and I made as many
unsuccessful applications together as I could stand。 Then I went
and sat down on the sill of the first teahouse for a base of
operationsI cannot say for my headquarters； because that is just
what we could not getand gave myself up to melancholy。 Meanwhile
Yejiro ransacked the town； from which excursions he returned every
few minutes with a fresh refusal； but the same excuse。 It got so at
last I could anticipate the excuse。 The inn was full alreadyof
assessors and their victims。 The assessors had descended on the
spot； it seemed； and the whole country…side had come to town to lie
about the value of its land。 I only wished the inhabitants might
have chosen some other time for false swearing。 For it was a sad tax
on my credulity。
We did indeed get one offer which I duly went to inspect； but the
outside of the house satisfied me。 At last I adopted extreme
measures。 I sent Yejiro off to the police station。 This move
produced its effect。
Even at home； from having contrived to keep on the sunny side of the
law and order； my feelings toward the police are friendly enough for
all practical purposes； but in no land have I such an affectionate
regard for the constabulary as in Japan。 Members of the force there；
if the term be applicable to a set of students spectacled from
over…study； whose strength is entirely moral； never get you into
trouble； and usually get you out of it。 One of their chief charms to
the traveler lies in their open…sesame effect upon obdurate
landlords。 In this trick they are wonderfully successful。
Having given ourselves up to the police； therefore； we were already
by way of being lodged； and that quickly。 So indeed it proved。
In the time to go and come； Yejiro reappeared with an officer in
civilian's clothes； who first made profuse apologies for presenting
himself in undress； but it seemed he was off duty at the moment；and
then led the way a stone's throw round the corner； and in five minutes
I was sitting as snugly as you please in a capital room in an inn's
third story； sipping tea and pecking at sugar plums； a distinctly
honored guest。
Here fate put in a touch of satire。 For it now appeared that all our
trouble was quite gratuitous。 Most surprisingly the innkeepers'
story o