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it presented itself in profile ahead； a narrow ledge notched in naked
simplicity against the precipice。 Things look better slightly
veiled； besides； it is more decent； even in a path。 In this case the
shamelessness was earnest of the undoing。 For on reaching the point
in view and turning it I stood confronted by a sight sorry indeed。
The path beyond had vanished。 Far below； out of sight over the edge；
lay the torrent； unscalable the cliff rose above； and a line of
fossil footprints； leading across the face of the precipice in the
debris； alone marked where the path had been。 Spectres they seemed
of their former selves。 Crusoe could not have been more horrified
than was I。
Not to have come suggested itself as the proper solution； unfortunately
an impracticable one； and being there； to turn back was inadmissible。
So I took myself in hand and started。 For the first few steps I was
far too much given up to considering possibilities。 I thought how a
single misstep would end。 I could see my footing slip； feel the
consciousness that I was gone； the dull thuds from point to point as
what remained of me bounded beyond the visible edge down； down。 。 。
And after that what！ How long before the porters missed me and came
back in search？ Would there be any trace to tell what had befallen？
And then Yejiro returning alone to Tokyo to reportlost on the
Dragon peak！ Each time I almost felt my foot give way as I put it
down； right before left； left before right。
Then I realized that this inopportune flirting with fate must stop；
that I must give over dallying with sensations； or it would soon be
all over with me。 I was falling a prey to the native Loreleifor
all these spots in Japan have their familiar devilssubjectively； as
befits a modern man。 I numbed sensibility as best I could and cared
only to make each step secure。 Between the Nirvana within and the
Nirvana below； it was a sorry hell。
In mid…career the path made an attempt to recover； but relapsed to
further footprints in the sand。 At last it descended to a brook。
I knelt to drink； and on getting up again saw my pocket…handkerchief
whisking merrily away down stream。 I gave chase； but in vain； for
though it came to the surface once or twice to tantalize me it was
gone before I could seize it。 So I gave over the pursuit； reflecting
that； after all； it might have fared worse with me。 If the Lorelei
had hoped to turn my head； I was well quit of my handkerchief for her
only trophy。
Shortly after this； the main stream divided into two； and the left
branch； which we followed； led up to a gorge；beyond a doubt the
abomination of desolation spoken of by the prophet。 I do not
remember a landscape more ghastly。 Not a tree； not a blade of grass；
not even decent earth in the whole prospect。 Apparently； the place
had been flayed alive and sulphur had then been poured into the sore。
Thirty years before a cataclysm had occurred here。 The side of one
of the mountains had slid bodily into the valley。 The debris； by
damming up the stream； caused a freshet； which swept everything
before it and killed quantities of folk lower down the valley。
The place itself has never recovered to this day。
Although the stream here was a baby to the one below； it was large
enough to be impassable to the natural man。 From our woodcutter
friends； however； we had learned of the leavings of a bridge； upon
which in due time we came； and putting the parts of it in place； we
passed successfully over。
We now began to enter the snow in good earnest； incipient glacier
snow； treacherously honeycombed。 It made； however； more agreeable
walking than the boulders。 The path had again become precipitous；
and kept on mounting； till of a sudden it landed us upon an
amphitheatral arena； dominated by high； jagged peaks。 One unbroken
stretch of snow covered the plateau； and at the centre of the wintry
winding…sheet a cluster of weather…beaten huts appealed pitiably to
the eye。 They were the buildings of the Riuzanjita hot…springs； in
summer a sort of secular monastery for pilgrims to the Dragon peak。
They were tenanted now； we had been told； by a couple of watchmen。
We struck out with freer strides； while the moon； which had by this
time risen high enough to overtop the wall of peaks； watched us with
an ashen face； as in single file we moved across the waste of level
white。
XVI。
Riuzanjita。
We made for the main hut； a low； mouse…colored shanty fast asleep and
deep drifted in snow。 The advance porter summoned the place； and the
summons drew to what did for door a man as mouselike as his mansion。
He had about him a subdued； monkish demeanor that only partially hid
an alertness within；a secular monk befitting the spot。 He showed
himself a kindly body； and after he had helped the porters off with
their packs； led the way into the room in which he and his mate
hibernated。 It was a room very much in the rough； boards for walls；
for ceiling； for floor； its only furnishing a fire。 It was the best
of furnishing in our eyes； and we hasted to squat round it in a
circle； in attitudes of extreme devotion； for it was bitter cold。
The monkish watchman threw a handful more twigs on the embers； out of
a cheerful hospitality to his guests。
The fireplace was merely a hole in the floor； according to Japanese
custom； and the smoke found its way out as best it could。 But there
was very little of it； usually； indeed； there is none； for charcoal
is the common combustible。 A cauldron hung； by iron bars jointed
together； from the gloom above。 It was twilight in the room。
Already the day without was fading fast； and even at high noon； none
too much of it could find a way into the building； now half buried
under the snow。 A second watchman sat muffled in shadow on the
farther side of the fire。 He made his presence known； from time to
time； by occasional sympathetic gutturals； or by the sudden glow of a
bit of charcoal； which he took out of the embers with a pair of
chopstick fire…irons to relight his pipe。 The talk naturally turned
upon our expedition； with Yejiro for spokesman； and from that easily
slid into the all…important question of guides。 Our inquiries on
this head elicited nothing but doubt。 We tried at first to get the
watchmen to go。 But this they positively refused to do。 They could
not leave their charge； in the first place； they said； and for the
second； they did not know the path。 We asked if there was no one who
did。 There was a hunter； they said； near by who was by way of
knowing the road。 A messenger was sent at once to fetch him。
In the mean time； if they showed themselves skeptical about our
future； they proved most sympathetic over our past。 Our description
of the Friday footprints especially brought out much fellow…feeling。
They knew the spot well； they said； and it was very bad。 In fact it
was called the Oni ga Jo； or place of many devils； for its fearfulness。
It would be better； they added； after the mountain opening on the
tenth of June。
〃Mountain opening！〃 said I to Yejiro； 〃what is that？ Is it anything
like the 'river opening'？〃 For the Japanese words seemed to imply not
a physical； but a formal unlocking of the hills； like the annual
religious rite upon the Sumidagawa in Tokyo。 Such； it appeared； it
was。 For the tenth of June； he said； was the date of the
mountain…climbing festival。 Yearly on that day all the sacred peaks
are thrown open to a pious public for ascent。 A procession of
pilgrims； headed by a flautist and a bellman； wend their way to the
summit； and there encamp。 For three days the ceremony lasts； after
which the mountains are objects of pilgrimage till the twenty…eighth
day of August。 For the rest of the year the summits are held to be
shut； the gods being then in conclave； to disturb whom were the
height of impiety。 A pleasing coincidence of duty and pleasure； that
the scaling of the peaks should be enjoined to pilgrims at the times
of easiest ascent！ Preparatory to the procession all the paths of
approach are repaired。 It was this repairing to which the watchmen
referred and which concerned our secular selves。
Our difficulties began to be explained。 We were very close to
committing sacrilege。 We had had； it is true； no designs on the
peaks； but were we wholly guiltless in attempting so much as the
passes in this the close season？ Apparently not。 At all events；
we were a month ahead of time in our visit； which in itself was of
questionable etiquette。
At this point the messenger sent to find the hunter returned without
his man。 Evidently the hunter was a person who meant to stand well
with his gods； or else he was himself a myth。
Distraught in mind and restless in body； I got up and went out into
the great snow waste。 The sunset afterglow was just fading into the
moonshine。 The e