按键盘上方向键 ← 或 → 可快速上下翻页，按键盘上的 Enter 键可回到本书目录页，按键盘上方向键 ↑ 可回到本页顶部！
————未阅读完？加入书签已便下次继续阅读！
the great snow waste。 The sunset afterglow was just fading into the
moonshine。 The effect upon the pure white sheet before me was
indescribably beautiful。 The warm tint of the last of day； as it
waned； dissolved imperceptibly into the cold lustre of the night as
if some alchemist were subtly changing the substance while he kept
the form。 For a new spirit was slowly possessing itself of the very
shapes that had held the old； and the snow looked very silent； very
cold； very ghostly； glistening in its silver sheen。
The sky was bitterly clear； inhumanly cold。 To call it frosty were
to humanize it。 Its expanse stretched far more frozen than the
frozen earth。 Indeed； the night sky is always awful。 For the most
part； we forget it for the kindlier prospect of the cradling trees；
and the whispers of the wind； and the perfumes of the fields； the
sights and sounds that even in slumber stir with life； and the nearer
thrust away the real horror of the far。 But the awe speaks with
insistence when the foreground itself is dead。
Shivering； I returned to the fire and human companionship。
The conversation again rolled upon precipices； which it appeared
were more numerous before than behind； and casualties among the
woodcutters not unknown in consequence。 There was one place； they
said； where； if you slipped； you went down a ri （two miles and a half）。
It was here a woodcutter had been lost three days before。 The ri
must have been a flight of fancy； since it far exceeded the height of
the pass above the sea。 But a handsome discount from the statement
left an unpleasant balance to contemplate。
This death had frightened one of the watchmen badly； as it may well
have done。 The facts were these。 Separated from the hot springs of
Riuzanjita by two passes lay a valley； uninhabited except for two
bands of woodcutters； who had built themselves a couple of huts； one
on either side the stream； in which they lived the year round。
It was these huts that went by the name of Kurobe。 During the winter
they were entirely cut off from the outside world。 As soon as
practicable in the spring； a part of each band was accustomed to come
out over the passes； descend to Ashikura； and return with provisions
and money。
Now this year； before the men in the valley had thought it time to
attempt the passes； a solitary woodcutter came up to the hot springs
from below； and； in spite of warning from the watchmen； started alone
for Kurobe。 On the afternoon of the third day after his departure；
the regular band turned up at Riuzanjita； having left Kurobe； it
seemed； that morning。 They passed the night at the hot springs hut；
and on being questioned by the watchmen about the man of three days
before； they said they had heard of no such person。 It turned out；
to the horror of both parties； that he had never reached Kurobe。
It was only the night before we arrived that the woodcutters had been
there； and the affair was still terribly fresh in the watchman's
thoughts； in fact； it was the identical band that had built us our
bridge。 These men were thoroughly equipped for snow…climbing and had
come over safely； and yet； as it was； the head man of the other band
at Kurobe had been afraid to cross with them； and had； instead； gone
all the way round by the river and the sea； a very long and rough
journey。 Fatal accidents； the watchmen said； were of yearly
occurrence on the passes。
And all this was only the way to Kurobe。 Beyond it lay the Harinoki
toge。 That pass no one had yet crossed this year。 And at intervals
during the talk the watchman repeated excitedly； as a sort of
refrain； 〃It is impossible to go on；it is impossible to go on。〃
This talk； a part of which I understood； was not very heartening；
following as it did the personal experience of the Oni ga Jo。
The prospect began to look too uncertain in its conclusion and too
certain in its premises to be inviting。 If professionals； properly
accoutred； found crossing so dangerous a matter； the place was hardly
one for unprovided amateurs。 These mountaineers were not tied
together； but wore over their waraji； or straw sandals； a set of
irons called kanakajiki。 We were shown some of them which had been
left by the woodcutters against their return。 They were skeleton
sandals； iron bands shod with three spikes。 They looked like
instruments of torture from the Middle Ages； and indeed were said to
be indispensable against backsliding。
On the other hand； one Blondin feat over the Devil Place was enough
for me。 To take it on the road rather than turn back was one thing；
to start to take it in cold blood another。 I had had quite enough of
balancing and doubt。 So I asked if there was no other way out。
We might； they said； go to Arimine。
〃And how was the road？〃
〃Oh； the road was good；〃 they answered cheerily。
〃Could we get a guide？〃
Apparently we could not； for an awkward pause ensued until； after
some suspense； the bigger of the two watchmen； he that sat in the
shadow of the corner； volunteered to pilot us himself； and； he added；
we should not have to start betimes； as the snow would not be fit to
travel on till the sun had melted the crust。
Upon this doubly comforting conclusion I bade them good…night；
and betook me to the cell…like room allotted me to sleep。
XVII。
Over the Snow。
When Yejiro pushed the shoji and the amado （night shutters） apart in
the morning； he disclosed a bank of snow four feet deep； not a
snowfall over night； but the relic of the winter。 I found myself in
a snow grotto beyond which nothing was visible。 He then imparted to
me the cheerful news that the watchman had changed his mind； and now
refused to set out with us。 It was too late in the day to start； the
man said； which； in view of his having informed us only the night
before that the snow would not be fit to travel on till this very
hour； was scarcely logical。 The trouble lay not in the way； but in
the will。 The man had repented him of his promise。 Things look
differently as certainties in the morning from what they do as
possibilities overnight。 Fortunately he proved amenable to
importunity； and finally consented to go。 His fellow was much
worried； and followed him distressfully to the outer threshold；
whence in perturbation of spirit he watched us depart； calling out
pathetically to his mate to be very careful of himself。 His almost
motherly solicitude seemed to me more comical at the time than it
came to seem later。
The sky was without a fleck of cloud； and； as we struck out across
the snow； I feared at first for my eyes； so great was the glare。
For I had neither goggles nor veil。 In fact； we were as unprepared a
troop as ever started on such an expedition。 We had not a pair of
foot spikes nor a spiked pole to the lot of us。
The jagged peaks of the valley's wall notched the sky in vivid
relief； their sharp teeth biting the blue。 We below were blinking。
Luckily before very long we had crossed the level and were attacking
the wall； and once on it the glare lessened； for we were facing the
south； and the slant of the slope took off from the directness of the
sun's rays。 The higher we rose； the greater the tilt became。 The
face of the slope was completely buried in snow except where the
aretes stuck through； for the face was well wrinkled。 The angle soon
grew unpleasant to visage； and certainly looked to have exceeded the
limit of stable equilibrium。 In mid…ascent； as we were winding
cautiously up； a porter slipped。 He stopped himself； however； and
was helped on to his feet again by his fellow behind。 The bad bit
was preface to a worse effect round the corner； for on turning the
arete； we came upon a snow slope like a gigantic house…roof。 It was
as steep as you please； and disappeared a few hundred feet below over
the edge into the abyss。 Across and up this the guide； after looking
about him； struck out； and I followed。 The snow was in a plastic
state； and at each step I kicked my toes well in； so wedging my
footing。 The view down was very unnerving。 It soon grew so bad I
fixed my thought solely on making each step secure； and went slowly；
which was much against my inclination。 In this manner we tacked
gradually upward in zigzags； some forty feet apart； each of us
improving the footprints of his predecessor。
After a short eternity； we came out at the top。 I threw myself upon
the snow； and when I had sufficiently recovered my breath asked the
guide； with what I meant for sarcasm； whether that was his idea of
〃a good road。〃 He owned that it was the worst bit on the way； but he
somewhat grudgingly conceded it a 〃gake。〃 I sat corrected； but in the
interest of any future wanderer I submit the following definition of
a 〃gake；〃 which； if not strictly accurate； at least leans to the
right side。 If the cliff overhang； it is a 〃g