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at it； first and last； but the fidgety things always ended by coming
off at the toe or the heel； or sluing round to the side till they
were worse than useless。 They were supposed to prevent one from
slipping； which no doubt they would have done had they not begun by
slipping off themselves。 They wore themselves out by their nervousness；
and had to be renewed every little while from the stock the porters
carried。 In honor of the Oni ga Jo I had a fresh pair put on beside
the brook sacred to the memory of my pocket…handkerchief。 We then
rose to the Devil Place； and threaded it in single file。 Whether it
were the companionship； or familiarity； or simply that my right side
instead of my left next the cliff gave greater seeming security； I
got over it a shade more comfortably this time； though it was still
far from my ideal of an afternoon's walk。 The road to the next world
branched off too disturbingly to the left。
At last the path descended to the river bottom for good。 I sat down
on a stone； pulled out my tobacco pouch； and lit a pipe。 The porters
passed on out of sight。 Then I trudged along myself。 The tension of
the last two days had suddenly ceased； and in the expansion of spirit
that ensued I was conscious of a void。 I wanted some one with me then；
perhaps； more than I ever craved companionship before。 The great
gorge about me lay filled to the brim with purple shadow。 I drank in
the cool shade…scented air at every breath。 The forest…covered
mountain sides； patched higher up with snow in the gullies； shut out
the world。 Only a gilded bit here and there on some lofty spur
lingered to hint a sun beyond。 The strip of pale blue sky far
overhead bowed to meet the vista of the valley behind； a vista of
peaks more and more snow…clad； till the view was blocked at last by
a white； nun…veiled summit； flushed now； in the late afternoon light；
to a tender rose。 Past strain had left the spirit； as past fatigue
leaves the body； exquisitely conscious； and my fancy came and walked
with me there in that lonely valley； as it gave itself silently into
the arms of night。
Probably none I know will ever tread where I was treading then； nor I
ever be again in that strange wild cleft； so far out of the world；
and yet； if years hence I should chance to wander there alone once
more； I know the ghost of that romance will rise to meet me as I pass。
I own I made no haste to overtake the caravan。
Darkness fell upon us while we were yet a long way from Ashikura；
with an uncertain cliff path between us and it： for the path； like a
true mountain trail； had the passion for climbing developed into a
mania； and could never rest content with the river's bed whenever it
spied a chance to rise。 It had just managed an ascent up a zigzag
stairway of its own invention； and had stepped out in the dark upon a
patch of tall mountain grass； as dry as straw； when Yejiro conceived
the brilliant idea of torches。 He had learned the trick in the
Hakone hills； where it was the habit； he told the guide； when caught
out at night； and he proceeded to roll some of the grass into long
wisps for the purpose。 The torches were remarkably picturesque； and
did us service beside。 Their ruddy flare； bowing to the breeze； but
only burning the more madly for its thwarting； lighted the path like
noonday through a circle of fifteen feet； and dropped brands； still
flaring； into the stubble； which we felt it a case of conscience to
stop and stamp out。 The circle； small as it was； sufficed to
disclose a yawning gulf on the side； to which the path clung with the
persistency of infatuation。
The first thing to tell us of approach to human habitation was the
croaking of the frogs。 After the wildness of our day it sounded like
some lullaby of Mother Earth； speaking of hearth and home； and we
knew that we were come back to ricefields and man。 It was another
half hour； however； before our procession reached the outskirts of
the village。 Here we threw aside our torches； and in a weary；
drawn…out file found our way； one by one； into the courtyard of the
inn。 It was not an inn the year round； it became such only at
certain seasons； of which the present was not one。 It had the habit
of putting up pilgrims on their way to the Dragon Peak； between the
times of its pious offices it relapsed into a simple farmhouse。
But the owner received us none the less kindly for our inopportune
appearance； and hasted to bring the water…tubs for our feet。 Never
was I more willing to sit on the sill a moment and dabble my toes；
for I was footsore and weary； and glad to be on man's level again。
I promise you； we were all very human that evening； and felt a deal
aloud。
XVIII。
A Genial Inkyo。
The owner of the farmhouse had inherited it from his father。 There
was nothing very odd about this even to our other…world notions of
property； except that the father was still living； as hale and hearty
as you please； in a little den at the foot of the garden。 He was； in
short； what is known as an inkyo； or one 〃dwelling in retirement；〃a
singular state； composed of equal parts of this world and the next；
like dying in theory； and then undertaking to live on in practice。
For an inkyo is a man who has formally handed in his resignation to
the community； and yet continues to exist most enjoyably in the midst
of it。 He has abdicated in favor of his eldest son； and； having put
off all responsibilities； is filially supported in a life of ease and
pleasure。
In spite of being no longer in society； the father was greedily social。
As soon as he heard a foreigner had arrived； he trotted over to call；
and nothing would do but I must visit his niche early in the morning；
before going away。
After breakfast； therefore； the son duly came to fetch me； and we
started off through the garden。 For his sire's place of retirement
lay away from the road； toward the river； that the dear old gentleman
might command a view of the peaks opposite； of one of which； called
the Etchiu Fuji； from its conical form； he was dotingly fond。
It was an expedition getting there。 This arose； not from any special
fault in the path； which for the first half of the way consisted of a
string of stepping…stones neatly laid in the ground； and for the
latter fraction of no worse mud than could easily be met with
elsewhere。 The trouble came from a misunderstanding in foot…gear。
It seemed too short a walk to put one's boots twice on and off for
the doing of it。 On the other hand； to walk in stocking…feet was out
of the question； for the mud。 So I attempted a compromise；
consisting of my socks and the native wooden clogs； and tried to make
the one take kindly to the other。 But my mittenlike socks would have
none of my thongs； and； failing of a grip for my toes； compelled me
to scuffle along in a very undignified way。 Then every few steps one
or the other of the clogs saw fit to stay behind； and I had to halt
to recover the delinquent。 I made a sorry spectacle as I screwed
about on the remaining shoe； groping after its fellow。 Once I was
caught in the act by my cicerone； who turned round inopportunely to
see why I was not following； and twice in attempting the feat I all
but lost my balance into the mud。
The worthy virtuoso； as he was； met us at the door； and escorted us
upstairs to see his treasures。 The room was tapestried with all
manner of works of art； of which he was justly proud； while the house
itself stood copied from a Chinese model； for he was very classic。
But I was pleased to find that above all his heart was given to the
view。 It was shared； as I also discovered； by the tea…ceremonies； in
which he was a proficient； such a mixture is man。 But I believe the
view to have been the deeper affection。 While I was admiring it； he
fetched from a cupboard a very suspicious…looking bottle of what
turned out to be honey； and pressed a glass of it upon me。 I duly
sipped this not inappropriate liquor； since cordials savor of
asceticism； and this one being of natural decoction peculiarly
befitted a secular anchorite。 Then I took my leave of one who；
though no longer in the world； was still so charmingly of it。
The good soul chanced to be a widower； but such bereavement is no
necessary preliminary to becoming a 〃dweller in retirement。〃
Sometimes a man enters the inkyo state while he still has with him
the helpmate of his youth； and the two go together to this aftermath
of life。 Surely a pretty return； this； of the honeymoon！ Darby and
Joan starting once more hand in hand； alone in this Indian summer of
their love； as they did years ago in its spring…tide； before other
generations of their own had pushed them on to less romantic parts；
Darby come back from paternal cares to be once more the lover； and
Joan from mother and grandam again become his girl。
We parted from our wa