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Joan from mother and grandam again become his girl。
We parted from our watchman…guide and half our porters with much
feeling； as did they from us。 As friendships go we had not known one
another long； but intimacy is not measured by time。 Circumstances
had thrown us into one another's arms； and； as we bade good…by first
to one and then to another； we seemed to be severing a tie that
touched very near the heart。
Two of the porters came on with us； as much for love as for money；
as far as Kamiichi； where we were to get kuruma。 A long tramp we had
of it across leagues of ricefields； and for a part of the way beside a
large； deep canal； finely bowered in trees； and flowing with a swift；
dark current like some huge boa winding stealthily under the bamboo。
It was the artery to I know not how many square miles of field。
We came in for a steady drizzle after this； and it was long past noon
before we touched our noontide halt； and stalked at last into the inn。
With great difficulty we secured three kuruma；the place stood on
the limits of such locomotion；and a crowd so dense collected about
them that it blocked the way out。 Everybody seemed smitten with a
desire to see the strangers； which gave the inn servants； by virtue
of their calling； an enviable distinction to village eyes。 But the
porters stood highest in regard； both because of their more intimate
tie to us and because we here parted from them。 It was severing the
final link to the now happy past。 We all felt it； and told our
rosary of memories in thought； I doubt not； each to himself； as we
went out into the world upon our different ways。
Eight miles in a rain brought us to the road by which we had entered
Etchiu some days before； and that night we slept at Mikkaichi once
more。 On the morrow morning the weather faired； and toward midday we
were again facing the fringe of breakers from the cliffs。
The mountain spurs looked the grimmer that we now knew them so well by
repulse。 The air was clearer than when we came； and as we gazed out
over the ocean we could see for the first half day the faint coast
line of Noto； stretching toward us like an arm along the horizon。
We watched it at intervals as long as it was recognizable； and when
at last it vanished beyond even imagination's power to conjure up；
felt a strange pang of personal regret。 The sea that snatches away
so many lands at parting seems fitly inhuman to the deed。
In the course of these two days two things happened which pointed
curiously to the isolation of this part of Japan。 The first was the
near meeting with another foreigner； which would seem to imply
precisely the contrary。 But the unwonted excitement into which the
event threw Yejiro and me was proof enough of its strangeness。
It was while I was sipping tea； waiting for a fresh relay of kuruma at
Namerigawa； that Yejiro rushed in to announce that another foreigner
was resting at an inn a little further up town。 He had arrived
shortly before from the Echigo side； report said。 The passing of
royalty or even a circus would have been tame news in comparison。
Of course I hastened into my boots and sallied forth。 I did not call
on him formally； but I inspected the front of the inn in which he was
said to be； with peculiar expectation of spirit； in spite of my
affected unconcern。 He was； I believe； a German； but he never took
shape。
The second event occurred the next evening； and was even more singular。
Like the dodo it chronicled survival。 It was manifested in the
person of a policeman。
Some time after our arrival at the inn Yejiro reported that the
police officer wished to see me。 The man had already seen the
important part of me； the passport； and I was at a loss to imagine
what more he could want。 So Yejiro was sent back to investigate。
He returned shortly with a sad case of concern for consideration；
and he hardly kept his face as he told it。 The conscientious officer；
it seemed； wished to sleep outside my room for my protection。
From the passport he felt himself responsible for my safety； and had
concluded that the least he could do would be not to leave me for a
moment。 I assured him； through Yejiro； that his offer was most
thoughtful； but unnecessary。 But what an out…of…the…world corner the
thought implied； and what a fine fossil the good soul must have been！
Here was survival with an emphasis！ The man had slept soundly through
twenty years or more of change； and was still in the pre…foreign days
of the feudal ages。
The prices of kuruma； too； were pleasingly behind the times。 They
were but two…fifths of what we should have had to pay on the southern
coast。 As we advanced toward Shinshiu； however； the prices advanced
too。 Indeed； the one advance accurately measured the other。 We were
getting back again into the world； it was painfully evident。 At last
fares rose to six cents a ri。 Before they could mount higher we had
taken refuge in the train； and were hurrying toward Zenkoji by steam。
Our objective point was now the descent of the Tenriugawa rapids。
It was not the shortest way home； but it was part of our projected
itinerary and took us through a country typical of the heart of
Japan。 It began with a fine succession of passes。 These I had once
taken on a journey years before with a friend； and as we started now
up the first one； the Saru ga Bamba no toge； I tried to make the new
impression fit the old remembrance。 But man had been at work upon
the place without； and imagination still more upon its picture
within。 It was another toge we climbed in the light of that
latter…day afternoon。 With the companion the old had passed away。
Leaving the others to follow； I started down the zigzags on the
farther side。 It was already dusk； and the steepness of the road and
the brisk night air sent me swinging down the turns with something of
the anchor…like escapement of a watch。 Midway I passed a solitary
pedestrian； who was trolling to himself down the descent； and when in
turn he passed me； as I was waiting under a tree for the others to
catch up； he eyed me suspiciously； as one whose wanderings were
questionable。 They were certainly questionable to myself； for by
that time we were come to habitations； and each fresh light I saw I
took for the village where we were to stop for the night； in spite of
repeated disillusionings。
Overhead； the larger stars came out and winked at me； and then； as
the fields of space became more and more lighted with star…points；
the hearth…fires to other homes of worlds； I thought how local； after
all； is the great cone of shadow we men call night； for it is only
nature's nightcap for the nodding earth； as she turns her head away
from the sun to lie pillowed in space。
The next day was notable chiefly for the up…and…down character of the
country even for Japan； which was excelled only by the unhesitating
acceptance of it on the part of the road； and this in its turn only
by the crowds that traveled it。 It seemed that the desire to go
increased inversely as the difficulty in going。 The wayfarers were
most sociable folk； and for a people with whom personality is at a
discount singularly given to personalities。 Not a man who had a
decent chance but asked whither we were going and whence we had come。
To the first half of the country…side we confided so much of our
private history； to the second we contented ourselves in saying； with
elaborate courtesy； 〃The same as six years ago；〃 an answer which
sounded polite； and rendered the surprised questioner speechless for
the time we took to pass。
Especially the women added to the picturesqueness of the landscape。
Their heads done up in gay…colored kerchiefs； framing their round and
rosy faces； their kit slung over their shoulders； and their kimono
tucked in at their waists； they trudged along on useful pairs of
ankles neatly cased in lavender gaiters。 Some followed dutifully
behind their husbands； others chatted along in company with their
kind；members these last of some pilgrim association。
There were wayfarers； too； of less happy mind。 For over the last
pass the authorities were building a new road； and long lines of
pink…coated convicts marched to and fro at work upon it； under the
surveillance of the dark…blue police； and the sight made me think how
little the momentary living counts in the actual life。 Here we were；
two sets of men； doing for the time an identical thing； trudging
along a mountain path in the fresh May air； and yet to the one the
day seemed all sunshine； to the other nothing but cloud。
XIX。
Our Passport and the Basha。
It was bound to come； and we knew it； it was only a question of time。
But then we had braved the law so far so well； we had almost come to
believe that we should escape altogether。 I mean the fatal detection
by the police that we were viola