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believe that we should escape altogether。 I mean the fatal detection
by the police that we were violating my passport。 That document had
already outrun the statute of limitations； and left me no better than
an outlaw。 For practical purposes my character was gone； and being
thus self…convicted I might be arrested at any moment！
In consequence of pending treaty negotiations the government had
become particular about the privileges it granted。 One of the first
counter…moves to foreign insistence on exterritoriality was the
restricting of passports to a fortnight's time。 You might lay out
any tour you chose； and if granted by the government； the provinces
designated would all be duly inscribed in your passport； but you had
to compass them all in the fortnight or be punished。 Of course this
could be evaded； and a Japanese friend in the foreign office had
kindly promised to send me an extension on telegraph。 But the
dislike of being tied to times and places made me sinfully prefer the
risk of being marched back to Tokyo under the charge of a policeman；
a fate I had seen overtake one or two other malefactors caught at
somewhat different crimes； whom we had casually met on the road。
The Harinoki toge was largely to blame for the delay； it is true。
But then unluckily the Harinoki toge could not be arrested； and I could。
The bespectacled authorities who examined my credentials every night
had hitherto winked at my guilt； so that the bolt fell upon us from a
clear sky。 It is almost questionable whether it had a right to fall
at that moment at all。 It was certainly a case of officious
officialdom。 For we had stopped simply to change kuruma； and the
unwritten rule of the road runs that so long as the traveler keeps
moving he is safe。 To catch him napping at night is the recognized
custom。
Besides； the police might have chosen； even by day； some other
opportunity to light upon us than in the very thick of our wrestle
with the extortionate prices of fresh kuruma。 It was inconsiderate
of them； to say the least； for the attack naturally threw us into a
certain disrepute not calculated to cheapen fares。 Then； too； our
obvious haste helped furnish circumstantial evidence of crime。
Nevertheless； in the very midst of these difficult negotiations at
Matsumoto； evil fate presented itself； clothed as a policeman； and
demanded our papers。 Luckily they were not at the very bottom of the
baggage； but in Yejiro's bosom； for otherwise our effects would have
become a public show； and collected an even greater crowd than
actually gathered。 The arm of the law took the passport； fell at
once on the indefensible date； and pointed it out to us。 There we
were； caught in the act。 We sank several degrees instantly in
everybody's estimation。
How we escaped is a secret of the Japanese force； for escape we did。
We admitted our misfortune to the policeman； and expressed ourselves
as even more desirous of getting back to Tokyo than he could be to
have us there。 But we pointed out that now the Tenriugawa was to all
intents as short a way as any； and furthermore that it was the one
expressly nominated in the bond。 The policeman stood perplexed。
Out of doubt or courtesy； or both； he hesitated for some moments；
and then reluctantly handed the passport back。 We stood acquitted。
Indeed we were not only suffered to proceed； and that in our own way；
but he actually accelerated matters himself； for he turned to against
the kuruma； to their instant discomfiture。 Indeed； this was quite as
it should be； for he was as anxious to be rid of us as we were to be
quit of him。
On the road the kuruma proved unruly。 The exposure we had sustained
may have helped to this； or the coercion of the policeman may have
worked revolt。 They jogged along more and more reluctantly； till；
at last； the worst of them refused to go on at all。 After some quite
useless altercation； we made what shift we might with the remainder；
but had not got far when we heard the toot of a fish…horn behind；
and the sound gradually overhauled us。 Now； a fish…horn on a country
road in Japan means a basha； and a basha means the embodiment of the
objectionable。 It is a vehicle to be avoided； both externally like a
fire…engine； and internally like an ambulance or a hearse。 Indeed；
so far as its victim is concerned； it usually ends by becoming a
cross between the latter two。 It is a machine absolutely devoid of
recommendations。 I speak from experience； for in a moment of
adventure I once took passage in one； some years ago； and I never
mean to do so again。 Even the sound of its fish…horn now provokes me
to evil thoughts。 But we were in a bad way； and； to my wonder；
I found my sentiments perceptibly softening。 Before the thing caught
up with us； I had actually resolved to take it。
We made signals of distress； and； rather contrary to my expectation；
the machine stopped。 The driver pulled up； and the guard； a
half…grown boy； who sat next him on the seat in front； making melody
on the horn； jumped down； a strange bundle of consequence and
courtesy； and helped us and our belongings in。 He then swung himself
into his seat； as the basha set off again； and fell to tooting
vociferously。 We had scarce got settled before the vehicle was
dashing along at what seemed； to our late perambulator experience；
a perfectly breakneck speed。 The pace and the enthusiasm of the boy
infected us。 Yejiro and I fell to congratulating each other； with
some fervor； on our change of conveyance； and each time we spoke；
the boy whisked round in his seat and cried out； with a knowing wag of
his head； 〃I tell you； it's fast； a basha！ He！〃 and then as suddenly
whisked back again； and fell to tooting with renewed vigor； like one
who had been momentarily derelict in duty。 The road was quite deserted；
so that so much noise would have seemed unnecessary。 The boy thought
otherwise。 Meanwhile； we were being frightfully jolted； and
occasionally slung round corners in a way to make holding on a
painful labor。
I suppose the unwonted speed must have intoxicated us。 There is
nothing else that will account for our loss of head。 For； before we
were well out of the machine； we had begun negotiations for its
exclusive possession on the morrow； and by the time we were fairly
installed in the inn at Shiwojiri； the bargain stood complete。
In consideration of no exorbitant sum； the vehicle； with all
appertaining thereto； was to be taken off its regular route and
wander； like any tramp； at our sweet will； in quite a contrary
direction。 The boy with the horn was expressly included in the
lease。 By this arrangement we hoped to compass two days' journey in
one； and reach by the morrow's night the point where boats are taken
for the descent of the Tenriugawa rapids。 We knew the drive would be
painful； but we had every promise that it would be fast。
The inn at Shiwojiri possessed a foreign table and chairs； a bit of
furnishing from which the freshness of surprise never wore off。 What
was even less to be looked for； the son of the house was proficient
in English； having studied with a missionary in Tokyo。 I had some
talk with him later； and lent him an English classic which he showed
great desire to see。
Betimes the next morning the basha appeared； both driver and guard
got up in a fine dark…green uniform； a spruceness it much tickled our
vanity to mark。 With a feeling akin to princely pride we stepped in；
the driver cracked his whip； and； amid the bows of the inn household；
we went off up the street。 Barring the loss of an umbrella； which
had happened somewhere between the time we boarded the basha on the
yestereen and the hour of departure that morning； and an exhaustive
but vain hunt for the same； first in the vehicle and then at the
stables； nothing marred the serenity of our first half hour。 The sky
was dreamy； a delicate blue seen through a golden gauze。 I fancy it
was such a sky with which Danae fell in love。 We rose slowly up the
Shiwojiri pass； which a new road enabled even the basha to do quite
comfortably； and the southern peaks of the Hida…Shinshiu range rose
to correspond across the valley； the snow line distinctly visible；
though the nearer ranges did their best to cut it off。 Norikura； the
Saddle； especially； showed a fine bit of its ten thousand feet；
wrapped in the indistinctness of the spring haze。 The heavy air gave
a look of slumber to the peaks； as if those summits； waked before the
rest of the world； had already grown drowsy。 We had not yet ceased
gazing at them when a turn of the road shut them out。 A rise of a
few feet； a dip； a turn； and the lake of Suwa lay below us on the
other side； flanked by its own mountains； through a gap in which
showed the just perceptible cone of Fuji。
The Shiwojiri toge is not a high pass； and yet it does duty as part
of a great divide