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prided itself upon its height of fashion。 In him the change had gone
so far as to recall the East End rough all over； an illusion
dispelled only by the innocence of his face。
While still busy pigeonholing my specimens； I chanced to look through
the open window； and suddenly saw pass by； as in the shifting background
of some scenic play； the lichenveiled stone walls and lotus…mantled
moats of the old feudal castle of Uyeda。 Poor； neglected； despised
bit of days gone by！days that are but yesterdays； aeons since as
measured here。 Already it was disappearing down the long perspective
of the past； and yet only twenty years before it had stood in all the
pride and glory of the Middle Ages。 Then it had been
A daimyo's castle； wont of old to wield
Across the checkerboard of paddyfield
A rook…like power from its vantage square
On pawns of hamlets； now a ruin； there；
Its triple battlements gaze grimly down
Upon a new…begotten bustling town；
Only to see self…mirrored in their moat
An ivied image where the lotus float。
Some subtle sense of fitness within me was touched as it might have
been a nerve； and instantly the motley crew inside the car became not
merely comic； but shocking。 It seemed unseemly； this shuffling off
the stage of the tragic old by the farce…like new。 However little
one may mourn the dead； something forbids a harlequinade over their
graves。 The very principle of cosmic continuity has a decency about
it。 Nature holds with one hand to the past even as she grasps at the
future with the other。 Some religions consecrate by the laying on of
hands； Nature never withdraws her touch。
IV。
Zenkoji。
We were now come more than half…way from sea to sea； and we were
still in the thick of Europeanization。 So far we had traveled in the
track of the comic。 For if Japan seems odd for what it is； it seems
odder for what it is no longer。
One of the things which imitation of Western ways is annihilating is
distance。 Japan； like the rest of the world； is shrinking。 This was
strikingly brought home that afternoon。 A few short hours of shifting
panorama； a varying foreground of valley that narrowed or widened
like the flow of the stream that had made it； peaks that opened and
shut on one another like the changing flies in some spectacular play；
and we had compassed two days' worth of old…time travel when a man
made every foot of ground his own； and were drawing near Zenkoji。
I was glad to be there； hardly as glad to be there so soon。
There are lands made to be skimmed； tame samenesses of plain or weary
wastes of desert； where even the iron horse gallops too slow。 Japan
is not one of them。 A land which Nature herself has already crumpled
into its smallest compass； and then covered with vegetation rich as
velvet； is no land to hurry over。 One may well linger where each
mile builds the scenery afresh。 And in this world； whose civilization
grows at the expense of the picturesque； it is something to see a
culture that knows how least to mar。
Upon this mood of unsatisfied satisfaction my night fell； and shortly
after the train rolled into the Zenkoji station； amid a darkness
deepened by falling rain。 The passengers bundled out。 The station
looked cheerless enough。 But from across the open space in front
shone a galaxy of light。 A crowd of tea…houses posted on the farther
side had garlanded themselves all over with lanterns； each trying to
outvie its neighbor in apparent hospitality。 The display was
perceptibly of pecuniary intent； but still it was grateful。 To be
thought worth catching partakes； after all； of the nature of a
compliment。 What was not so gratifying was the embarrassment of
choice that followed； for each of these gayly beckoning caravansaries
proved to be a catch…pilgrim for its inn up…town。 Being on a hill；
Zenkoji is not by way of easy approach by train； and the pilgrims to
it are legion。 In order； therefore； to anticipate the patronage of
unworthy rivals； each inn has felt obliged to be personally
represented on the spot。
The one for which mine host of Takasaki had； with his blessing；
made me a note turned out so poorly prefaced that I hesitated。
The extreme zeal on the part of its proprietor to book me made me still
more doubtful。 So； sending Yejiro off to scout； I walked to and fro；
waiting。 I did not dare sit down on the sill of any of the booths；
for fear of committing myself。
While he was still away searching vainly for the proper inn； the
lights were suddenly all put out。 At the same fatal moment the
jinrikisha； of which a minute before there had seemed to be plenty；
all mysteriously vanished。 By one fell stroke there was no longer
either end in sight nor visible means of reaching it。
〃In the street of by and by
Stands the hostelry of never；〃
as a rondel of Henley's hath it； but not every one has the chance to
see the Spanish proverb so literally fulfilled。 There we werenowhere。
I think I never suffered a bitterer change of mood in my life。
At last； after some painful groping in the dark； and repeated resolves
to proceed on foot to the town and summon help； I chanced to stumble
upon a stray kuruma； which had incautiously returned； under cover of
the darkness； to the scene of its earlier exploits。 I secured it on
the spot； and by it was trundled across a bit of the plain and up the
long hill crowned by the town； to the pleasing jingle of a chime of
rings hung somewhere out of sight beneath the body of the vehicle。
When the trundler asked where to drop me； I gave at a venture the
name that sounded the best； only to be sure of having guessed awry
when he drew up before the inn it designated。 The existence of a
better was legible on the face of it。 We pushed on。
Happily the hostelries were mostly in one quarter； the better to keep
an eye on one another； for in the course of the next ten minutes I
suppose we visited nearly every inn in the place。 The choice was not
a whit furthered by the change from the outposts to the originals。
At last； however； I got so far in decision as to pull off my boots；
an act elsewhere as well； I believe； considered an acquiescence in
fate；and suffered myself to be led through the house； along the
indoor piazza of polished board exceeding slippery； up several
breakneck； ladder…like stairways even more polished and frictionless；
round some corners dark as a dim andon （a feeble tallow candle
blinded by a paper box）； placed so as not to light the turn； could
make them； until finally we emerged on the third story； a height that
itself spoke for the superiority of the inn； and I was ushered into
what my bewildered fancy instantly pictured a mediaeval banqueting
hall。 It conjured up the idea on what I must own to have been
insufficient grounds； namely； a plain deal table and a set of
questionably made； though rather gaudily upholstered chairs。
But chairs； in a land whose people have from time immemorial found
their own feet quite good enough to sit on； were so unexpected a
luxury； even after our Takasaki experience； that they may be pardoned
for suggesting any flight of fancy。
The same might formerly have been said of the illumination next
introduced。 Now； however； common kerosene lamps are no longer so
much of a sight even in Japan。 Indeed； I had the assurance to ask
for a shade to go with the one they set on the table in all the glaring
nudity of a plain chimney。 This there was some difficulty in finding；
the search resulting in a green paper visor much too small； that sat
on askew just far enough not to hide the light。 The Japanese called
it a hat； without the least intention of humor。
By the light thus given the room stood revealed； an eyrie； encased on
all sides except the one of approach by shoji only。 Into these had
been let a belt of glass eighteen inches wide all the way round the
room； at the height at which a person sitting on the mats could see
out。 It is much the fashion now thus to graft a Western window upon
a Far…Eastern wall。 The idea is ingenious and economical； and has but
two drawbacks；that you feel excessively indoors if you stand up；
and strangely out…of…doors if you sit down。
I pushed the panels apart； and stepped out upon the narrow balcony。
Below me lay the street； the lanterns of the passers…by flitting like
fireflies through the dark； and from it stole up to me the hum of
pleasure life； a perfume of sound； strangely distinct in the still
night air。
Accredited pilgrim though one be not； to pass by so famous a shrine
as Zenkoji without the tribute of a thought were to be more or less
than human； even though one have paid his devoirs before。 Sought
every year by thousands from all parts of Japan； it serves but to
make the pilgrimage seem finer that the bourne itself should not be
fine。 Large and curio