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commanding a panoramic view over the sea。 The place was kept by a
deaf old lady and her tailless cat。 The old lady's peculiarity was
personal； the cat's was not。 No self…respecting cat in this part of
Japan could possibly wear a tail。 The northern branch of the family
has long since discarded that really useless feline appendage。 A dog
in like circumstance would be sadly straitened in the expression of
his emotions； but a cat is every whit a cat without a continuation。
With the deaf old lady we had； for obvious reasons； no sustained
conversation。 She busied herself for the most part in making dango；
a kind of dumpling； but not one calculated to stir curiosity； since
it is made of rice all through。 These our men ate with more relish
than would seem possible。 Meanwhile I sat away from the road where I
could look out upon the sea over the cliffs； and the cat purred about
in her offhand way and used me incidentally as a rubbing post。 Trees
fringed the picture in front； and the ribbon of road wound off through
it into the distance； beaded with folk； and shot with sunshine and
shadow。
I was sorry when lunch was over and we took leave of our gentle
hostesses； tabbies both of them； yet no unpleasing pair。 A few more
bends brought us to where the path culminated。 The road had for some
time lain bare to the sea and sky； but at the supreme point some fine
beeches made a natural screen masking the naked face of the precipice。
On the cutting above； four huge Chinese characters stood graved in
the rock。
〃Ya no gotoku； to no gotoshi。〃
〃Smooth as a whetstone； straight as an arrow；〃 meaning the cliff。
Perhaps because of their pictorial descent； the characters did not
shock one。 Unlike the usual branding of nature； they seemed not out
of keeping with the spot。 Not far beyond； the butts of the winter's
neve； buried in dirt； banked the path。
For miles along the raod the view off was superb。 Nothing bordered
one side of the way and the mountain bordered the other。 Far below
lay the sea； stretching away into blue infinity； a vast semicircle of
ultramarine domed by a hemisphere of azure； and it was noticeable how
much vaster the sea looked than the sky。 We were so high above it that
the heavings of its longer swells were leveled to imperceptibility；
while the waves only graved the motionless surface。 Here and there
the rufflings of a breeze showed in darker markings； like the changes
on watered silk。 The most ephemeral disturbance made the most show。
Dotted over the blue expanse were black spots； fishing boats； and a
steamer with a long trail of smoke showed in the offing； stationary
to the eye； yet shifting its place like the shadow of a style when
you forgot to look。 And in long perspective on either hand stretched
the battlement of cliff。 Visual immensity lay there before us； in
each of its three manifestations； of line； of surface； and of space。
We stood still； the better to try to take it inthis grandeur
tempered by sunshine and warmth。 Do what he will； man is very much
the creature of his surroundings yet。 In some instant sense； the
eyes fashion the feelings； and we ourselves grow broader with our
horizon's breadth。 The Chaldean shepherds alone with the night had
grander thoughts for the companionship； and I venture to believe that
the heart of the mountaineer owes quite as much to what he is forced
to visage as to what he is compelled to do。
We tucked ourselves into our jinrikisha and started down。 By virtue
of going； the speed increased； till the way we rolled round the
curves was intoxicating。 The panorama below swung to match； and we
leaned in or out mechanically to trim the balance。 Occasionally； as
it hit some stone； the vehicle gave a lurch that startled us for a
moment into sobriety； from which we straightway relapsed into
exhilaration。 Curious this； how the body brings about its own
forgetting。 For I was conscious only of mind； and yet mind was the
one part of me not in motion。 I suppose much oxygen made me tipsy。
If so； it is a recommendable tipple。 Spirits were not unhappily
named after the natural article。
It was late afternoon when we issued at last from our two days
Thermopylae upon the Etchiu plain。 As we drew out into its expanse；
the giant peaks of the Tateyama range came into view from behind
their foothills； draped still in their winter ermine。 It was last
year yet in those upper regions of the world； but all about us below
throbbed with the heartbeats of the spring。 At each mile； amid the
ever lengthening shadows； nature seemed to grow more sentient。
Through the thick air the peaks stood out against the eastern sky； in
saffron that flushed to rose and then paled to gray。 The ricefields；
already flooded for their first working； mirrored the glow overhead
so glassily that their dykes seemed to float； in sunset illusion；
a mere bar tracery of earth between the sky above and a sky beneath。
Upon such lattice of a world we journeyed in mid…heaven。 Stealthily
the shadows gathered； and as the hour for confidences drew on； nature
took us into hers。 The trees in the twilight； just breaking into
leaf； stood in groups among the fields and whispered low to one
another； nodding their heads； and then from out the shadow of the May
evening came the croaking of the frogs。 Strangely the sound fitted
the hour； with its like touch of mysterious suggestion。 As the
twilight indefinite； it pervaded everything； yet was never anywhere。
Deafening at a distance； it hushed at our approach only to begin
again behind us。 Will…o'…the…wisp of the ear； infatuating because
forever illusive！ And the distance and the numbers blended what had
perhaps been harsh into a mellow whole that filled the gloaming with
a sort of voice。 I began to understand why the Japanese are so fond
of it that they deem it not unworthy a place in nature's vocal
pantheon but little lower than the song of the nightingale； and echo
its sentiment in verse。 And indeed it seems to me that his soul must
be conventionally tuned in whom this even…song of the ricefields
stirs no responsive chord。
VIII。
Across the Etchiu Delta。
The twilight lingered； and the road threaded its tortuous course for
miles through the rice plain； bordered on either hand by the dykes of
the paddyfields。 Every few hundred feet； we passed a farmhouse
screened by clipped hedgerows and bosomed in trees； and at longer
intervals we rolled through some village； the country pike becoming
for the time the village street。 The land was an archipelago of
homestead in a sea of rice。 But the trees about the dwellings so cut
up the view； that for the moments of passing the mind forgot it was
all so flat and came back to its ocean in surprise； when the next
vista opened on the sides。
Things had already become silhouettes when we dashed into
lantern…lighted Mikkaichi。 We took the place in form； and a fine
sensation we made。 What between the shouts of the runners and the
clatter of the chaises men； women and children made haste to clear a
track； snatching their little ones back and then staring at us as we
swept past。 Indeed； the teams put their best feet foremost for local
effect； and more than once came within an ace of running over some
urchin who either would not or could not get out of the way。
Fortunately no casualties occurred。 For it would have been
ignominious to have been arrested by the police during our first ten
minutes in the town； not to speak of the sad dampening to our
feelings an accident would have caused。
In this mad manner we dashed up the long main street。 We were forced
to take the side； for the village aqueduct or gutterit served both
purposesmonopolized the middle。 At short intervals； it was spanned
by causeways made of slabs of stone。 Over one of these we made a
final swirl and drew up before the inn。 Then our shafts made their
obeisance to the ground。
A warm welcome greeted the appeal。 A crowd of servants came rushing
to the front of the house with an eye to business； and a crowd of
village folk with an eye to pleasure closed in behind。 Between the
two fires we stepped out and entered the side court； to the
satisfaction of the one audience and the chagrin of the other。
But it is impossible to please everybody。
Fortunately it was not so hard to please us； and certainly the inn
people did their best； for they led the way to what formerly were the
state apartments； that part of the house where the daimyo of Kaga had
been wont to lodge when he stopped here over night on his journey
north。 Though it had fallen somewhat into disrepair； it was still
the place of honor in the inn； and therefore politely put at the
service of one from beyond sea。 There I supped in solitary state；
and there I slept right royally amid the relics of former splendor；
doubting a little whether some