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of our Ophir; the Milke & Hony of our Canaan; the Indies of
England: and therefore desire's and deserve's to be had in an
everlasting remembrance。
The Draperies of this Kingdome are termed Old and New。 By the
Old; are understood Broad Clothes; Bayes and Kersies: By the New;
Perpetuanoes; Serges; Sayes; and other Manufactures of wooll。
The causes then of the decay of trade in these Draperies; are
either Domestique or Forreine。 The Domestique causes; are some
Past; some Present。 Those Past; are apparent in the late
disturbance of the Cloth…Trade; which is so obvious to every man;
that I had rather passe by it; then presse upon it; because it is
past: and I would to God that so were the effects of it also。 In
charitie we may thinke it was good in the purpose; though it
prooved ill in the practice。 For thereby the Draperies of this
Kingdome; are much diminished; and the forreine advanced and
advantaged。 The quantitites of which last; were formerly few or
none; but now they exceede our highest numbers issued out of the
land: as by a collection thereof; which my selfe made in those
parts; by His Majesties speciall parts; by His Majesties
specially command; in the time of Secretary Winwoods service; may
appeare。
These present; may be discern'd in the Cloth…trade; either
under the Clothier; or under the Merchant。 Under the Clothier;
either by ill making or false sealing the Cloth。
For the making of good and true Cloth; many excellent lawes
have bin invented & enacted by the wisdome of the Parliaments of
this land; from time to time。 And the Statute of 4 of the King
Cap。 2 doth seeme to bee an Epitome or Compendiary of all the
former Statutes in this kinde。 In this Stature is prescribed; the
true breadth; and length; and waight; that may conduce to the
making of a true and perfect Cloth; Kersie or Manufacture。 If a
Clothier make a Cloth of lesse waight; then is set downe in the
said Statute; he offendeth in Quantitie: If of lesse breadth; or
length; or of forbidden kindes of wooll; hee offendeth in
Qualitie。 If a Clothier offend in neither of these by his owne
act; yet he may offend in both; by his instruments or workemen:
Either by the Weavers; in not putting in the stuffe at the
making; or by the Tuckers in pulling out the stuffe after the
making thereof。
A Cloth also may be well made; & yet false sealed。 A Cloth
may be said to be lawfully made; when it is truly sealed。 For
although it may be impossible to make some Clothes; just of those
quantities and quanlities prescribed by the Statute; as the
Clothiers terme is; A man cannot cast a cloth in a mould: yet I
hope; they will give me leave to say; that it is possible that a
Cloth may bee true sealed; though false made。 And then a Cloth
ill made; and true sealed; whereby the buyer may see what he hath
for his money; may bee said to bee a good or lawfull Cloth
according to the Statute。
Now the execution of the Statute for Searching and Sealing of
Clothes; seemeth to be referred to two sorts of men: which are
either the Aulnager or Seacher。 the former may seeme originally
to have beene an Officer appointed for that purpose; as well as
by the Notation of the name; as by some Ancient Statutes。 For
Aulne; and Aulnage; and Aulnagier; are all French words; taken
from the measuring of Cloth。 And thence it is; that in that
tongue they are wont to say Auner draps to measure Clothes; by a
Trope taken from the Instrument by which they are measured。
But because the care of the Aulnage is committed to so Noble
and Honourable a Personage; that will not suffer any abuse in the
execution of that office: and the said Statute of 4 Jacobi; and
the former Statutes of 39 and 43 Elizabethae; doe referre the
Searching and Sealing of Clothes; to certaine Overseers or
Searchers; so called by the said Statutes; I will proceede unto
them。
And forasmuch as Execution is the life of the law; as His
Majestie in his high wisedome admonisheth: and the Prudence and
providence of the State; have beene very great in devising and
enacting such good lawes from time to time; as might tend to the
encreae and advancement of the Drapery of this Kingdome: If
therefore now any think bee amisse therein; it must needs come
through the want of execution of those lawes。 Hinc illae
lachrymae! This Bonum according to His Majesties Regall rule; is
not Bene。 For these Overseers and Searchers beeing silly
Countreymen; and generally not expert in the mystery of making of
Cloth: in the Search whereof; there is as much neede of skill as
in the making: for how should they finde the fault; that know not
how it is committed? These Searchers I say; thus being ignorant
and unskilfull in their offices; and negligent also; (in which
last; it hath been againe and againe confest; that they have set
the seales of their office; to Clothes they never search't nor
saw) needs must there be a great abuse; in the execution of those
good lawes。
Nay I would I could not say; how much our Nation hath beene
upbraided by the people of forreine parts with this abuse; that
the Searchers Seales of England are bought and sold as in a
market; and put on the Clothes by the Tuckers; and other the
servants of the Clothiers; as if the same had beene lawfully
Searched and Sealed according to the Statute; when as the
Searchers Eye never so much as beheld the Clothes。
Wherein the people of the Netherlands are so exact; that you
shall never find any of their Countrey Clothes false search't or
sealed。 For you sahll nave a Seale set upon the Cloth when it
commeth from the Weavers: anothe whenit commeth from the Tuckers:
another when it commeth from the Dyers: and that by men of good
quality; appointed for tha purpose in every City and Towne where
Cloth is made; termed Curemasters: so called from the Care they
ought; and doe performe; in the execution of their office:
wherein indeed they are so strict; that you shall never finde any
of the seales aforesaid; set to any manner of false or defective
Cloth。
For indeed the Searcher being a sworne Officer; ought to be
as witnes without exception betwixt man and man: that when a man
seeth the Searchers seale set upon the Cloth; it should serve as
a true Certificat of the true making thereof。 It is a great
impiety before God and Man; to be a false witnesse in any case:
but these Searchers are false witnesse ipso facto; when they doe
testifie to the world by their seales; that those Clothes are
good and true; which indeede are utterly false。 And which
aggravateth the matter yet more; that the Kings Seale of Armes;
which is testis omni exceptione major; should also be set to
Clothes thus falsely searched and sealed; whereby not only the
Kings subjects; but the strangers also in forreine parts are
deceived; is a very grosse and grievous abuse。
Amongst other abuses of this kinde; one precedent come's to
my minde; of ten Clothes bought not long since by a Merchant; of
a Clothier of Wiltshire。 Which Clothes were all Sealed by the
Searchers of that place; for good & true; according to the
Statute。 but being tried by the Merchant Buyer; and afterwards by
the Sworne measurer of the Citie of London; were found so
defective in length; breadth and waight; that where these ten
Clothes cost but 60 lib。 or thereabouts; the faults in these ten
Clothes came to neere 20 lib which ws one third part of the value
of the Cloth。 And it being a notable comtempt of the law; the
Lords of His Majesties most Honourable Privie Councell were
informed thereof; who were pleased to send down a Messenger into
that County; and fetch't up both the Clothier and Searchers; who
worthily under…went the Condigne Censure of the Lords。
Under the Merchant also the Cloth…trade suffereth both at
Home and Abroad。 At Home; by Exporting the Materials; either of
Woolles or Wool…sels from the Sea…coasts of England; and the
Kingdome of Ireland: or by Over…lading the Cloth…trade; either
with any generall or speciall charge。
The latter I cannot pretermit: for as the chiefe waight of
the Cloth…trade lyeth on the Merchants…Adventures; so also is the
burthen of charge most felt under that trade。 For the Impositions
and Imprest money by them laid upon the Cloth; for defraying the
charge of their Government; and payment of their Debts; hath
driven many good Merchants out of the trade; and given the
Clothiers occasion to complaine of want of Buyers; and thrust the
trade it selfe more and more into the Strangers hands。
And abroad; by the unfit place of Residence; which the
Merchants…Adventurers are fallen upon in Holland。 Whither they
goe with great perill of Shippe and Goods: And where they come
farre short of that they hoped for; and of that quicke and ample
vent of their Cloth they found in Zeeland。 The Agitation of which
remoove; is vehemently suspected to have moved the Merchants of
Holland; to procure Priviledges of the States Generall to
Incorporate themselves; and keep Courts; to confront the
Merchants…Adventurers; which they never did before: To h