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the main; only at the west end it reaches within three miles of it。 At some distance off at sea the west point appears like a cape…land; the north side trends away north…north…west; and the east side east…south…east。 This island lies in latitude 3 degrees 4 minutes south; and the meridian distance from Babao five hundred and twelve miles east。 After we were out to sea; we plied to get to the northward; but met with such a strong current against us; that we got but little; for if the wind favoured us in the night; that we got three or four leagues; we lost it again; and were driven as far astern next morning; so that we plied here several days。
The 14th; being past a point of land that we had been three days getting about; we found little or no current; so that; having the wind at north…west…by…west and west…north…west; we stood to the northward; and had several soundings: at three o'clock thirty…eight fathom; the nearest part of New Guinea being about three leagues' distance; at four; thirty…seven; at five; thirty…six; at six; thirty…six; at eight; thirty…three fathom; then the Cape was about four leagues' distant; so that as we ran off we found our water shallower; we had then some islands to the westward of us; at about four leagues' distance。
A little after noon we saw smoke on the islands to the west of us; and having a fine gale of wind; I steered away for them。 At seven o'clock in the evening we anchored in thirty…five fathom; about two leagues from an island; good soft oozy ground。 We lay still all night; and saw fires ashore。 In the morning we weighed again; and ran farther in; thinking to have shallower water; but we ran within a mile of the shore; and came to in thirty…eight fathom good soft holding ground。 While we were under sail two canoes came off within call of us。 They spoke to us; but we did not understand their language nor signs。 We waved to them to come aboard; and I called to them in the Malayan language to do the same; but they would not。 Yet they came so nigh us that we could show them such things as we had to truck with them; yet neither would this entice them to come on board; but they made signs for us to come ashore; and away they went。 Then I went after them in my pinnace; carrying with me knives; beads; glasses; hatchets; &c。 When we came near the shore; I called to them in the Malayan language。 I saw but two men at first; the rest lying in ambush behind the bushes; but as soon as I threw ashore some knives and other toys; they came out; flung down their weapons; and came into the water by the boat's side; making signs of friendship by pouring water on their heads with one hand; which they dipped into the sea。 The next day; in the afternoon; several other canoes came aboard; and brought many roots and fruits; which we purchased。
The island has no name in our drafts; but the natives call it Pub Sabuda; it is about three leagues long; and two miles wide; more or less; it is of a good height; so as to be seen eleven or twelve leagues; it is very rocky; yet above the rocks there is good yellow and black mould; not deep; yet producing plenty of good tall trees; and bearing any fruits or roots which the inhabitants plant。 I do not know all its produce; but what we saw were plantains; cocoa… nuts; pine…apples; oranges; papaes; potatoes; and other large roots。 Here are also another sort of wild jacas; about the bigness of a man's two fists; full of stones or kernels; which eat pleasant enough when roasted。 The libby tree grows here in the swampy valleys; of which they make sago cakes。 I did not see them make any; but was told by the inhabitants that it was made of the pith of the tree; in the same manner I have described in my 〃Voyage Round the World。〃 They showed me the tree whereof it was made; and I bought about forty of the cakes。 I bought also three or four nutmegs in their shell; which did not seem to have been long gathered; but whether they be the growth of this island or not; the natives would not tell whence they had them; and seem to prize them very much。 What beasts the island affords I know not; but here are both sea and land fowl。 Of the first; boobies and men…of…war birds are the chief; some goldens; and small milk…white crab…catchers; the land…fowl are pigeons; about the bigness of mountain…pigeons in Jamaica; and crows about the bigness of those in England; and much like them; but the inner part of their feathers are white; and the outside black; so that they appear all black; unless you extend the feathers。 Here are large sky…coloured birds; such as we lately killed on New Guinea; and many other small birds; unknown to us。 Here are likewise abundance of bats; as big as young coneys; their necks; head; ears; and noses like foxes; their hair rough; that about their necks is of a whitish yellow; that on their heads and shoulders black; their wings are four feet over from tip to tip; they smell like foxes。 The fish are bass; rock…fish; and a sort of fish like mullets; old…wives; whip…rays; and some other sorts that I knew not; but no great plenty of any; for it is deep water till within less than a mile of the shore; then there is a bank of coral rocks; within which you have shoal…water; white clean sand; so there is no good fishing with the seine。
This island lies in latitude 2 degrees 43 minutes south; and meridian distance from port Babo; on the island Timor; four hundred and eighty…six miles: besides this island; here are nine or ten other small islands。
The inhabitants of this island are a sort of very tawny Indians; with long black hair; who in their manners differ but little from the Mindanayans; and others of these eastern islands。 These seem to be the chief; for besides them we saw also shock curl pated New Guinea negroes; many of which are slaves to the others; but I think not all。 They are very poor; wear no clothes but have a clout about their middle; made of the rinds of the tops of palmetto trees; but the women had a sort of calico cloth。 Their chief ornaments are blue and yellow beads; worn about their wrists。 The men arm themselves with bows and arrows; lances; broad swords; like those of Mindanao; their lances are pointed with bone: they strike fish very ingeniously with wooden fish…spears; and have a very ingenious way of making the fish rise; for they have a piece of wood curiously carved; and painted much like a dolphin (and perhaps other figures); these they let down into the water by a line with a small weight to sink it; when they think it low enough; they haul the line into their boats very fast; and the fish rise up after this figure; and they stand ready to strike them when they are near the surface of the water。 But their chief livelihood is from their plantations; yet they have large boats; and go over to New Guinea; where they get slaves; fine parrots; &c; which they carry to Goram and exchange for calicoes。 One boat came from thence a little before I arrived here; of whom I bought some parrots; and would have bought a slave but they would not barter for anything but calicoes; which I had not。 Their houses on this side were very small; and seemed only to be for necessity; but on the other side of the island we saw good large houses。 Their prows are narrow; with outriggers on each side; like other Malayans。 I cannot tell of what religion these are; but I think they are not Mahometans; by their drinking brandy out of the same cup with us without any scruple。 At this island we continued till the 20th instant; having laid in store of such roots and fruits as the island afforded。
On the 20th; at half an hour after six in the morning; I weighed; and standing out we saw a large boat full of men lying at the north point of the island。 As we passed by; they rowed towards their habitations; where we supposed they had withdrawn themselves for fear of us; though we gave them no cause of terror; or for some differences among themselves。
We stood to the northward till seven in the evening; then saw a rippling; and; the water being discoloured; we sounded; and had but twenty…two fathom。 I went about and stood to the westward till two next morning then tacked again; and had these several soundings: at eight in the evening; twenty…two; at ten; twenty…five; at eleven; twenty…seven; at twelve; twenty…eight fathom; at two in the morning; twenty…six; at four; twenty…four; at six; twenty…three; at eight; twenty…eight; at twelve; twenty…two。
We passed by many small islands; and among many dangerous shoals without any remarkable occurrence till the 4th of February; when we got within three leagues of the north…west cape of New Guinea; called by the Dutch Cape Mabo。 Off this cape there lies a small woody island; and many islands of different sizes to the north and north…east of it。 This part of New Guinea is high land; adorned with tall trees; that appeared very green and flourishing。 The cape itself is not very high; but ends in a low sharp point; and on either side there appears another such point at equal distances; which makes it resemble a diamond。 This only appears when you are abreast of the middle point; and then you have no ground within three leagues of the shore。
In the afternoon we passed by the cape and stood over for t