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hing extraordinary； and the same was to be said for the un…remarkable couple who took me in。
〃We shall be glad to put you up for the night；〃 they said。
But round a corner of the road； in the moon…light； I saw a clump of trees； and behind those trees a house。 What a queer house！ Squat； massive； almost a citadel guarding behind its tons of stone I knew not what treasure。 From the very threshold this legendary castle promised an asylum as assured； as peaceful； as secret as a monastery。
Then two young girls appeared。 They seemed astonished to see me； examined me gravely as if they had been two judges posted on the confines of a forbidden kingdom； and while the younger of them sulked and tapped the ground with a green switch； they were introduced ：
〃Our daughters。〃
The girls shook hands without a word but with a curious air of defiance； and disappeared。 I was amused and I was charmed。 It was all as simple and silent and furtive as the first word of a secret。
〃The girls are shy；〃 their father said； and we went into the house。
One thing that I had loved in Paraguay was the ironic grass that showed the tip of its nose between the pavements of the capital； that slipped in on behalf of the invisible but ever…present virgin forest to see if man still held the town； if the hour had not e to send all these stones tumbling。
I liked the particular kind of dilapidation which in Paraguay was the expression of an excess of wealth。 But here； in Concordia； I was filled with wonder。 Here everything was in a state of decay； but adorably so； like an old oak covered with moss and split in places with age； like a wooden bench on which generations of lovers had e to sit and which had grown sacred。 The wainscoting was worn； the hinges rusted； the chairs rickety。 And yet； though nothing had ever been repaired； everything had been scoured with zeal。 Everything was clean； waxed； gleaming。
The drawing…room had about it something extraordinarily intense； like the face of a wrinkled old lady。 The walls were cracked； the ceiling stripped； and most bewildering of all in this bewildering house was the floor： it had simply caved in。 Waxed； varnished and polished though it was； it swayed like a ship's gangway。 A strange house； evoking no neglect； no slackness； but rather an extraordinary respect。 Each passing year had added something to its charm； to the plexity of its visage and its friendly atmosphere； as well as to the dangers encountered on the journey from the drawing…room to the dining…room。
〃Careful！〃
There was a hole in the floor； and I was warned that if I stepped into it I might easily break a leg。 This was said as simply as 〃Don't stroke the dog； he bites。〃 Nobody was responsible for the hole； it was the work of time。 There was something lordly about this sovereign contempt for apologies。
Nobody said； 〃We could have these holes repaired ； we are well enough off； but 。 。 。〃 And neither did they say … which was true enough … 〃we have taken this house from the town under a thirty…year lease。 They should look after the repairs。 But they won't； and we won't； so 。 。 。〃 They disdained explanation； and this superiority to circumstance enchanted me。 The most that was said was：
〃The house is a little run down； you see。〃
Even this was said with such an air of satisfaction that I suspected my friends of not being saddened by the fact。 Do you see a crew of bricklayers； carpenters； cabinetworkers； plasterers intruding their sacrilegious tools into so vivid a past； turning this in a week into a house you would never recognize； in which the family would feel that they were visiting strangers？ A house without secrets； without recesses； without mysteries； without traps beneath the feet； or dungeons； a sort of town…hall reception room？
In a house with so many secret passages it was natural that the daughters should vanish before one's eyes。 What must the attics be； when the drawing…room already contained all the wealth of an attic？ When one could guess already that； the least cupboard opened； there would pour out sheaves of yellowed letters； grandpapa's receipted bills； more keys than there were locks and not one of which of course would fit any lock。 Marvelously useless keys that confounded the reason and made it muse upon subterranean chambers； buried chests； treasures。
〃Shall we go in to dinner？〃
We went in to dinner。 Moving from one room to the next I inhaled in passing that incense of an old library which is worth all the perfumes of the world。 And particularly I liked the lamps being carried with us。 Real lamps； heavy lamps； transported from room to room as in the time of my earliest childhood； stirring into motion as they passed great wondrous shadows on the walls。 To pick one up was to displace bouquets of light and great black palms。 Then； the lamps finally set down； there was a settling into motionlessness of the beaches of clarity and the vast reserves of surrounding darkness in which the wainscoting went on creaking。
As mysteriously and as silently as they had vanished； the girls reappeared。 Gravely they took their places。 Doubtless they had fed their dogs； their birds； had opened their windows on the bright night and breathed in the smell of the woods brought by the night…wind。 Now； unfolding their napkins； they were inspecting me cautiously out of the corners of their eyes； wondering whether or not they were going to make place for me among their domestic animals。 For among others they had an iguana； a mongoose； a fox； a monkey； and bees。 All these lived promiscuously together without quarreling in this new earthly paradise。 The girls reigned over all the animals of creation； charming them with their little hands； feeding them； watering them； and telling them tales to which all； from mongoose to bees； gave ear。
I firmly expected that these alert young girls would employ all their critical faculty； all their shrewdness； in a swift； secret； and irrevocable judgment upon the male who sat opposite them。
When I was a child my sisters had a way of giving marks to guests who were honoring our table for the first time。 Conversation might languish for a moment； and then in the silence we would hear the sudden impact of 〃Sixty！'' … a word that could tickle only the family； who knew that one hundred was par。 Branded by this low mark； the guest would all unknowing continue to spend himself in little courtesies while we sat screaming inwardly with delight。
Remembering that little game； I was worried。 And it upset me a bit more to feel my judges so keen。 Judges who knew how to distinguish between candid animals and animals that cheated； who could tell from the tracks of the fox whether he was in a good temper or not； whose instinct for inner movements was so sure and deep。
I liked the sharp eyes of these straightforward little souls； but I should so much have preferred that they play some other game。 And yet； in my cowardly fear of their 〃sixty〃 I passed them the salt； poured out their wine； though each time that I raised my eyes I saw in their faces the gentle gravity of judges who were not to be bought。
Flattery itself was useless： they knew no vanity。 Although they knew not it； they knew。 a marvelous pride； and without any help from me they thought more good of themselves than I should have dared utter。 It did not even occur to me to draw any prestige from my craft； for it is extremely dangerous to clamber up to the topmost branches of a plane…tree simply to see if the nestlings are doing well or to say good morning to one's friends。
My taciturn young friends continued their inspection so imperturbably； I met so often their fleeting glances； that soon I stopped talking。 Silence fell； and in that silence I heard something hiss faintly under the floor； rustle under the table； and then stop。 I raised a pair of puzzled eyes。 Thereupon； satisfied with her examination but applying her last touchstone； as she bit with savage young teeth into her bread the younger daughter explained to me with a candor by which she hoped to slaughter the barbarian （if that was what I was） ：
〃It's the snakes。〃
And content； she said no more； as if that explanation should have sufficed for anyone in whom there remained a last glimmer of intelligence。 Her sister sent a lightning glance to spy out my immediate reflex； and both bent with the gentlest and most ingenuous faces in the world over their plates。
〃Ah！ Snakes； are they？〃
Naturally the words escaped from me against my will。 This that had been gliding between my legs； had been brushing my calves； was snakes！
Fortunately for me； I smiled。 Effortlessly。
They would have known if it had been otherwise。 I smiled because my heart was light； because each moment this house was more and more to my liking。 And also because I wanted to know more about the snakes。 The elder daughter came to my rescue。
〃They nest in a hole under the table。〃
And her sister added： 〃They go back into their nest at about ten o'clock。 During the day they hunt。〃
Now it was my turn to look at them out of the corner of the eye。 What shrewdness！ what silent laughter behind those candid faces！ And w