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ne year after crashing in the desert I made a tour of the Catalan front in order to learn what happens to man when the scaffolding of his traditions suddenly collapses。 To Madrid I went for an answer to another question： How does it happen that men are sometimes willing to die？
I
Flying west from Lyon； I veered left in the direction of the Pyrenees and Spain。 Below me floated fleecy white clouds； summer clouds； clouds made for amateur flyers in which great gaps opened like skylights。 Through one of these windows I could see Perpignan lying at the bottom of a well of light。
I was flying solo； and as I looked down on Perpignan I was day…dreaming。 I had spent six months there once while serving as test pilot at a near…by airdrome。 When the day's work was done I would drive into this town where every day was as peaceful as Sunday。 I would sit in a wicker chair within sound of the cafe band； sip a glass of port； and look idly on at the provincial life of the place； reflecting that it was as innocent as a review of lead soldiers。 These pretty girls； these carefree strollers； this pure sky。 。 。 。
But here came the Pyrenees。 The last happy town was left behind。
Below me lay Figueras； and Spain。 This was where men killed one another。 What was most astonishing here was not the sight of conflagration； ruin； and signs of man's distress…it was the absence of all these。 Figueras seemed no different from Perpignan。 I leaned out and stared hard。
There were no scars on that heap of white gravel； that church gleaming in the sun； which I knew had been burnt。 I could not distinguish its irreparable wounds。 Gone was the pale smoke that had carried off its gilding； had melted in the blue of the sky its altar screens； its prayer books； its sacerdotal treasures。 Not a line of the church was altered。 This town； seated at the heart of its fan…shaped roads like a spider at the centre of its silken trap； looked very much like the other。
Like other towns； this one was nourished by the fruits of the plain that rose along the white highways to meet it。 All that I could discern was the slow gnawing which； through the centuries； had swallowed up the soil； driven away the forests； divided up the fields； dug out these life…giving irrigation ditches。 Here was a face unlikely to change much； for it was already old。 A colony of bees； I said to myself； once it was established so solidly within the boundaries of an acre of flowers； would be assured of peace。 But peace is not given to a colony of men。
Human drama does not show itself on the surface of life。 It is not played out in the visible world； but in the hearts of men。 Even in happy Perpignan a victim of cancer walled up behind his hospital window goes round and round in a circle striving helplessly to escape the pain that hovers over him like a relentless kite。 One man in misery can disrupt the peace of a city。 It is another of the miraculous things about mankind that there is no pain nor passion that does not radiate to the ends of the earth。 Let a man in garret but burn with enough intensity and he will set fire to the world。
Gerona went by； Barcelona loomed into view； and I let myself glide gently down from the perch of my observatory。 Even here'1 could see nothing out of the way； unless it was that the avenues were deserted。 Again there were devastated churches which； from above； looked untouched。 Faintly visible was something that I guessed to be smoke。 Was that one of the signs I was seeking？ Was this a scrap of evidence of that nearly soundless anger whose all…destroying wrath was so hard to measure？ A whole civilization was contained in that faint golden puff so lightly dispersed by a breath of wind。
I am quite convinced of the sincerity of people who say： 〃Terror in Barcelona？ Nonsense。 That great city in ashes？ A mere twenty houses wrecked。 Streets heaped with the dead？ A few hundred killed out of a population of a million。 Where did you see a firing line running with blood and deafening with the roar of guns？〃
I agree that I saw no firing line。 I saw groups of tranquil men and women strolling on the Ramblas。 When； on occasion； I ran against a barricade of militiamen in arms； a smile was often enough to open the way before me。 I did not e at once upon the firing line。 In a civil war the firing line is invisible； it passes through the hearts of men。 And yet； on my very first night in Barcelona I skirted it。
I was sitting on the pavement of a cafe； sipping my drink surrounded by light…hearted men and women； when suddenly four armed men stopped where I sat； stared at a man at the next table； and without a word pointed their guns at his stomach。 Streaming with sweat the man stood up and raised leaden arms above his head。 One of the militiamen ran his hands over his clothes and his eyes over some papers he found in the man's pockets； and ordered him to e along。
The man left his half…emptied glass； the last glass of his life； and started down the road。 Surrounded by the squad； his hands stuck up like the hands of a man going down for the last time。
〃Fascist！〃 A woman behind me said it with contempt。 She was the only witness who dared betray that anything out of the ordinary had taken place。 Untouched； the man's glass stood on the table； a mute witness to a mad confidence in chance； in forgiveness； in life。 I sat watching the disappearance in a ring of rifles of a man who five minutes before； within two feet of me； had crossed the invisible firing line。
My guides were anarchists。 They led me to the railway station where troops were being entrained。 Far from the platforms built for tender farewells； we were walking in a desert of signal towers and switching points； stumbling in the rain through a labyrinthine yard filled with blackened goods wagons where tarpaulins the color of lard were spread over carloads of stiffened forms。 This world had lost its human quality； had bee a world of iron； and therefore uninhabitable。 A ship remains a living thing only so long as man with his brushes and oils swabs an artificial layer of light over it。 Leave them to themselves a couple of weeks and the life dies out of your ship； your factory； your railway； death covers their faces。 After six thousand years the stones of a temple still vibrate with the passage of man； but a little rust； a night of rain； and this railway yard is eaten away to its very skeleton。
Here are our men。 Cannon and machine…guns are being loaded on board with the straining muscles and the hoarse gaspings that are always drawn from men by these monstrous insects； these fleshless insects； these lumps of carapace and vertebra。 What is startling here is the silence。 Not a note of song； not a single shout。 Only； now and then； when a gun…carriage lands； the hollow thump of a steel plate。 Of human voices no sound。
No uniforms； either。 These men are going off to be killed in their working garb。 Wearing their dark clothes stiff with mud； the column heaving and sweating at their work look like the denizens of a night shelter。 They fill me with the same uneasiness I felt when the yellow fever broke out among us at Dakar； ten years ago。
The chief of the detachment had been speaking to me in a whisper。 I caught the end of his speech：
〃 。 。 。 and we move up to Saragossa。〃
Why the devil aid he have to whisper！ The atmosphere of this yard made me think of a hospital。 But of course！ That was it。 A civil war is not a war； it is a disease。 These men were not going up to the front in the exultation of certain victory； they were struggling blindly against infection。
And the same thing was going on in the enemy camp。 The purpose of this struggle was not to rid the country of an invading foreigner but to eradicate a plague。 A new faith is like a plague。 It attacks from within。 It propagates in the invisible。 Walking in the streets； whoever belongs to a Party feels himself surrounded by secretly infected men。
This must have been why these troops were going off in silence with their instruments of asphyxiation。 There was not the slightest resemblance between them and regiments that go into battle against foreign armies and are set out on the chessboard of the fields and moved about by strategists。 These men had gathered together haphazardly in a city filled with chaos。
There was not much to choose between Barcelona and its enemy； Saragossa： both were posed of the same swarm of munists； anarchists； and fascists。 The very men who collected on the same side were perhaps more different from one another than from their enemies。 In civil war the enemy is inward； one as good as fights against oneself。
What else can explain the particular horror of this war in which firing squads count for more than soldiers of the line？ Death in this war is a sort of quarantine。 Purges take place of germ…carriers。 The anarchists go from house to house and load the plague…stricken into their tumbrils； while on the other side of the barricade Franco is able to utter that horrible boast： 〃There are no more munists among us。〃
The conscripts are weeded out by a kind of medical board ； the officer in charge is a sort of army doctor。 Men present themselves for service wi