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island。 They are a fine race； with strongly…marked Papuan features； frizzly hair； and brown complexions。 The Goram language is spoken also at the east end of Ceram； and in the adjacent islands。 It has a general resemblance to the languages of Ceram； but possesses a peculiar element which I have not met with in other languages of the Archipelago。
After great delay； considering the importance of every day at this time of year； a miserable boat and five men were found； and with some difficulty I stowed away in it such baggage as it was absolutely necessary for me to take； leaving scarcely sitting or sleeping room。 The sailing qualities of the boat were highly vaunted； and I was assured that at this season a small one was much more likely to succeed in making the journey。 We first coasted along the island； reaching its eastern extremity the following morning （April 11th）； and found a strong W。 S。W。 wind blowing； which just allowed us to lay across to the Matabello Islands； a distance little short of twenty miles。 I did not much like the look of the heavy sky and rather rough sea； and my men were very unwilling to make the attempt； but as we could scarcely hope for a better chance； I insisted upon trying。 The pitching and jerking of our little boat； soon reduced me to a state of miserable helplessness； and I lay down； resigned to whatever might happen。 After three or four hours； I was told we were nearly over； but when I got up； two hours later； just as the sun was setting； I found we were still a good distance from the point； owing to a strong current which had been for some time against us。 Night closed in； and the wind drew more ahead； so we had to take in sail。 Then came a calm； and we rowed and sailed as occasion offered； and it was four in the morning when we reached the village of Kisslwoi； not having made more than three miles in the last twelve hours。
MATABELLO ISLANDS。
At daylight I found we were； in a beautiful little harbour； formed by a coral reef about two hundred yards from shore； and perfectly secure in every wind。 Having eaten nothing since the previous morning； we cooked our breakfast comfortably on shore； and left about noon； coasting along the two islands of this group； which lie in the same line； and are separated by a narrow channel。 Both seem entirely formed of raised coral rock； but them has been a subsequent subsidence； as shaven by the barrier reef which extends all along them at varying distances from the shore； This reef is sometimes only marked by a。 line of breakers when there is a little swell on the sea； in other places there is a ridge of dead coral above the water； which is here and there high enough to support a few low bushes。 This was the first example I had met with of a true barrier reef due to subsidence； as has been so clearly shown by Mr。 Darwin。 In a sheltered archipelago they will seldom be distinguishable； from the absence of those huge rolling waves and breakers which in the wide ocean throw up a barrier of broken coral far above the usual high…water mark； while here they rarely rise to the surface。
On reaching the end of the southern island； called Uta； we were kept waiting two days for a wind that would enable us to pass over to the next island； Teor； and I began to despair of ever reaching Ke； and determined on returning。 We left with a south wind； which suddenly changed to north…east； and induced me to turn again southward in the hopes that this was the commencement of a few days' favourable weather。 We sailed on very well in the direction of Teor for about an hour； after which the wind shifted to WSW。； and we were driven much out of our course； and at nightfall found ourselves in the open sea； and full ten miles to leeward of our destination。 My men were now all very much frightened； for if we went on we might be a。 week at sea in our little open boat； laden almost to the water's edge； or we might drift on to the coast of New Guinea； in which case we should most likely all be murdered。 I could not deny these probabilities； and although I showed them that we could not get back to our starting…point with the wind as it was； they insisted upon returning。 We accordingly put about； and found that we could lay no nearer to Uta than to Teor； however； by great good luck； about ten o'clock we hit upon a little coral island； and lay under its lee till morning； when a favourable change of wind brought us back to Uta； and by evening （April 18th w e reached our first anchorage in Matabello； where I resolved to stay a few days； and then return to Goram。 It way with much regret that I gave up my trip to Ke and the intervening islands； which I had looked forward to as likely to make up for my disappointment in Ceram； since my short visit on my voyage to Aru had produced me so many rare and beautiful insects。
The natives of Matabello are almost entirely occupied in making cocoanut oil； which they sell to the Bugis and Goram traders； who carry it to Banda and Amboyna。 The rugged coral rock seems very favourable to the growth of the cocoa…nut palm； which abounds over the whole island to the very highest points； and produces fruit all the year round。 Along with it are great numbers of the areca or betel…nut palm； the nuts of which are sliced； dried； and ground into a paste； which is much used by the betel…chewing Malays and Papuans。 A11 the little children here even such as can just run alone； carried between their lips a mass of the nasty… looking red paste； which is even more disgusting than to see them at the same age smoking cigars； which is very common even before they are weaned。 Cocoa…nuts； sweet potatoes； an occasional sago cake； and the refuse nut after the oil has been extracted by boiling； form the chief sustenance of these people； and the effect of this poor and unwholesome diet is seen in the frequency of eruptions and scurfy skin diseases； and the numerous sores that disfigure the faces of the children。
The villages are situated on high and rugged coral peaks； only accessible by steep narrow paths； with ladders and bridges over yawning chasms。 They are filthy with rotten husks and oil refuse； and the huts are dark； greasy； and dirty in the extreme。 The people are wretched ugly dirty savages； clothed in unchanged rags； and living in the most miserable manner； and as every drop of fresh water has to be brought up from the beach； washing is never thought of； yet they are actually wealthy； and have the means of purchasing all the necessaries and luxuries of life。 Fowls are abundant； and eggs were given me whenever I visited the villages； but these are never eaten； being looked upon as pets or as merchandise。 Almost all of the women wear massive gold earrings； and in every village there are dozens of small bronze cannon lying about on the ground； although they have cost on the average perhaps ￡10 a piece。 The chief men of each village came to visit me； clothed in robes of silk and flowered satin； though their houses and their daily fare are no better than those of the ether inhabitants。 What a contrast between these people and such savages as the best tribes of bill。 Dyaks in Borneo； or the Indians of the Uaupes in South America； living on the banks of clear streams； clean in their persons and their houses； with abundance of wholesome food； and exhibiting its effect in healthy shins and beauty of form and feature！ There is in fact almost as much difference： between the various races of savage as of civilized peoples； and we may safely affirm that the better specimens of the former are much superior to the lower examples of the latter class。
One of the few luxuries of Matabello is the palm wine； which is the fermented sap from the flower stains of the cocoa…net。 It is really a very mice drink； more like cyder than beer； though quite as intoxicating as the latter。 Young cocoa…nuts are also very abundant； so that anywhere in the island it is only necessary to go a few yards to find a delicious beverage by climbing up a tree for it。 It is the water of the young fruit that is drunk； before the pulp has hardened； it is then more abundant； clear； and refreshing； and the thin coating of gelatinous pulp is thought a treat luxury。 The water of full…brown cocoa…nuts is always thrown away as undrinkable； although it is delicious in comparison with that of the old dry nuts which alone we obtain in this country。 The cocoa…nut pulp I did not like at first； but fruits are so scarce； except at particular seasons； that one soon learns to appreciate anything of a fruity nature。
Many persons in Europe are under the impression that fruits of delicious flavour abound in the tropical forests； and they will no doubt be surprised to learn that the truly wild fruits of this brand and luxuriant archipelago； the vegetation of which will vie with that of any part of the world； are in almost every island inferior in abundance and duality to those of Britain。 Wild strawberries and raspberries are found in some places； but they arc such poor tasteless things as to be hardly worth eating； and there is nothing to compare with our blackberries and whortleberries。 The kanary…nut may be considered equal to a hazel…nut； but I have met with nothing else superior to our crabs； oar haws； beech…nuts； wild plums； and