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the malay archipelago-2-第45章

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aits; where we were again becalmed; and were three more days creeping through them。 Several native canoes now came off to us from Waigiou on one side; and Batanta on the other; bringing a few common shells; palm…leaf mats; cocoa…nuts; and pumpkins。 They were very extravagant in their demands; being accustomed to sell their trifles to whalers and China ships; whose crews will purchase anything at ten times its value。 My only purchases were a float belonging to a turtle…spear; carved to resemble a bird; and a very well made palm…leaf box; for which articles I gave a copper ring and a yard of calico。 The canoes were very narrow and furnished with an outrigger; and in some of them there was only one man; who seemed to think nothing of coming out alone eight or ten miles from shore。 The people were Papuans; much resembling the natives of Aru。

When we had got out of the Straits; and were fairly in the great Pacific Ocean; we had a steady wind for the first time since leaving Ternate; but unfortunately it was dead ahead; and we had to beat against it; tacking on and off the coast of New Guinea。 I looked with intense interest on those rugged mountains; retreating ridge behind ridge into the interior; where the foot of civilized man had never trod。 There was the country of the cassowary and the tree…kangaroo; and those dark forests produced the most extraordinary and the most beautiful of the feathered inhabitants of the earththe varied species of Birds of Paradise。 A few days more and I hoped to be in pursuit of these; and of the scarcely less beautiful insects which accompany them。 We had still; however; for several days only calms and light head…winds; and it was not till the l0th of April that a fine westerly breeze set in; followed by a squally night; which kept us off the entrance of Dorey harbour。 The next morning we entered; and came to anchor off the small island of Mansinam; on which dwelt two German missionaries; Messrs。 Otto and Geisler。 The former immediately came on board to give us welcome; and invited us to go on shore and breakfast with him。 We were then introduced to his companion who was suffering dreadfully from an abscess on the heel; which had confined him to the house for six monthsand to his wife; a young German woman; who had been out only three months。 Unfortunately she could speak no Malay or English; and had to guess at our compliments on her excellent breakfast by the justice we did to it。

These missionaries were working men; and had been sent out; as being more useful among savages than persons of a higher class。 They had been here about two years; and Mr。 Otto had already learnt to speak the Papuan language with fluency; and had begun translating some portions of the Bible。 The language; however; is so poor that a considerable number of Malay words have to be used; and it is very questionable whether it is possible to convey any idea of such a book; to a people in so low a state of civilization。 The only nominal converts yet made are a few of the women; and some few of the children attend school; and are being taught to read; but they make little progress。 There is one feature of this mission which I believe will materially interfere with its moral effect。 The missionaries are allowed to trade to eke out the very small salaries granted them from Europe; and of course are obliged to carry out the trade principle of buying cheap and selling dear; in order to make a profit。 Like all savages the natives are quite careless of the future; and when their small rice crops are gathered they bring a large portion of it to the missionaries; and sell it for knives; beads; axes; tobacco; or any other articles they may require。 A few months later; in the wet season; when food is scarce; they come to buy it back again; and give in exchange tortoiseshell; tripang; wild nutmegs; or other produce。 Of course the rice is sold at a much higher rate than it was bought; as is perfectly fair and just and the operation is on the whole thoroughly beneficial to the natives; who would otherwise consume and waste their food when it was abundant; and then starveyet I cannot imagine that the natives see it in this light。 They must look upon the trading missionaries with some suspicion; and cannot feel so sure of their teachings being disinterested; as would be the case if they acted like the Jesuits in Singapore。 The first thing to be done by the missionary in attempting to improve savages; is to convince them by his actions that lie comes among them for their benefit only; and not for any private ends of his own。 To do this he must act in a different way from other men; not trading and taking advantage of the necessities of those who want to sell; but rather giving to those who are in distress。 It would he well if he conformed himself in some degree to native customs; and then endeavoured to show how these customs might be gradually modified; so as to be more healthful and more agreeable。 A few energetic and devoted men acting in this way might probably effect a decided moral improvement on the lowest savage tribes; whereas trading missionaries; teaching what Jesus said; but not doing as He did; can scarcely be expected to do more than give them a very little of the superficial varnish of religion。

Dorey harbour is in a fine bay; at one extremity of which an elevated point juts out; and; with two or three small islands; forms a sheltered anchorage。 The only vessel it contained when we arrived was a Dutch brig; laden with coals for the use of a war… steamer; which was expected daily; on an exploring expedition along the coasts of New Guinea; for the purpose of fixing on a locality for a colony。 In the evening we paid it a visit; and landed at the village of Dorey; to look out for a place where I could build my house。 Mr。 Otto also made arrangements for me with some of the native chiefs; to send men to cut wood; rattans; and bamboo the next day。

The villages of Mansinam and Dorey presented some features quite new to me。 The houses all stand completely in the water; and are reached by long rude bridges。 They are very low; with the roof shaped like a large boat; bottom upwards。 The posts which support the houses; bridges; and platforms are small crooked sticks; placed without any regularity; and looking as if they were tumbling down。 The floors are also formed of sticks; equally irregular; and so loose and far apart that I found it almost impossible to walls on them。 The walls consist of bits of boards; old boats; rotten mats; attaps; and palm…leaves; stuck in anyhow here and there; and having altogether the most wretched and dilapidated appearance it is possible to conceive。 Under the eaves of many of the houses hang human skulls; the trophies of their battles with the savage Arfaks of the interior; who often come to attack them。 A large boat…shaped council…house is supported on larger posts; each of which is grossly carved to represent a naked male or female human figure; and other carvings still more revolting are placed upon the platform before the entrance。 The view of an ancient lake…dweller's village; given as the frontispiece of Sir Charles Lyell's 〃Antiquity of Man;〃 is chiefly founded on a sketch of this very village of Dorey; but the extreme regularity of the structures there depicted has no place in the original; any more than it probably had in the actual lake…villages。

The people who inhabit these miserable huts are very similar to the Ke and Aru islanders; and many of them are very handsome; being tall and well…made; with well…cut features and large aquiline noses。 Their colour is a deep brown; often approaching closely to black; and the fine mop…like heads of frizzly hair appear to be more common than elsewhere; and are considered a great ornament; a long six…pronged bamboo fork being kept stuck in them to serve the purpose of a comb; and this is assiduously used at idle moments to keep the densely growing mass from becoming matted and tangled。 The majority have short woolly hair; which does not seem capable of an equally luxuriant development。 A growth of hair somewhat similar to this; and almost as abundant; is found among the half…breeds between the Indian and Negro in South America。 Can this be an indication that the Papuans are a mixed race?

For the first three days after our arrival I was fully occupied from morning to night building a house; with the assistance of a dozen Papuans and my own men。 It was immense trouble to get our labourers to work; as scarcely one of them could speak a word of Malay; and it was only by the most energetic gesticulations; and going through a regular pantomime of what was wanted; that we could get them to do anything。 If we made them understand that a few more poles were required; which two could have easily cut; six or eight would insist upon going together; although we needed their assistance in other things。 One morning ten of them came to work; bringing only one chopper between them; although they knew I had none ready for use。

I chose a place about two hundred yards from the beach; on an elevated ground; by the side of the chief path from the village of Dorey to the provision…grounds and the forest。 Within twenty yards was a little stream; which furnished us with excellent
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