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the malay archipelago-2-第49章

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。 This long thought…of and much…desired voyage to New Guinea had realized none of my expectations。 Instead of being far better than the Aru Islands; it was in almost everything much worse。 Instead of producing several of the rarer Paradise birds; I had not even seen one of them; and had not obtained any one superlatively fine bird or insect。 I cannot deny; however; that Dorey was very rich in ants。 One small black kind was excessively abundant。 Almost every shrub and tree was more or less infested with it; and its large papery nests were everywhere to be seen。 They immediately took possession of my house; building a large nest in the roof; and forming papery tunnels down almost every post。 They swarmed on my table as I was at work setting out my insects; carrying them off from under my very nose; and even tearing them from the cards on which they were gummed if I left them for an instant。 They crawled continually over my hands and face; got into my hair; and roamed at will over my whole body; not producing much inconvenience till they began to bite; which they would do on meeting with any obstruction to their passage; and with a sharpness which made me jump again and rush to undress and turn out the offender。 They visited my bed also; so that night brought no relief from their persecutions; and I verily believe that during my three and a half months' residence at Dorey I was never for a single hour entirely free from them。 They were not nearly so voracious as many other kinds; but their numbers and ubiquity rendered it necessary to be constantly on guard against them。

The flies that troubled me most were a large kind of blue…bottle or blow…fly。 These settled in swarms on my bird skins when first put out to dry; filling their plumage with masses of eggs; which; if neglected; the next day produced maggots。 They would get under the wings or under the body where it rested on the drying…board; sometimes actually raising it up half an inch by the mass of eggs deposited in a few hours; and every egg was so firmly glued to the fibres of the feathers; as to make it a work of much time and patience to get them off without injuring the bird。 In no other locality have I ever been troubled with such a plague as this。

On the 29th we left Dorey; and expected a quick voyage home; as it was the time of year when we ought to have had steady southerly and easterly winds。 Instead of these; however; we had calms and westerly breezes; and it was seventeen days before we reached Ternate; a distance of five hundred miles only; which; with average winds; could have been done in five days。 It was a great treat to me to find myself back again in my comfortable house; enjoying milk to my tea and coffee; fresh bread and butter; and fowl and fish daily for dinner。 This New Guinea voyage had used us all up; and I determined to stay and recruit before I commenced any fresh expeditions。 My succeeding journeys to Gilolo and Batchian have already been narrated; and if; now only remains for me to give an account of my residence in Waigiou; the last Papuan territory I visited in search of Birds of Paradise。

CHAPTER XXXV。

VOYAGE FROM CERAM TO WAIGIOU。

(JUNE AND JULY 1860。)

IN my twenty…fifth chapter I have described my arrival at Wahai; on my way to Mysol and Waigiou; islands which belong to the Papuan district; and the account of which naturally follows after that of my visit to the mainland of New Guinea。 I now take up my narrative at my departure from Wahai; with the intention of carrying various necessary stores to my assistant; Mr。 Allen; at Silinta; in Mysol; and then continuing my journey to Waigiou。 It will be remembered that I was travelling in a small prau; which I had purchased and fitted up in Goram; and that; having been deserted by my crew on the coast of Ceram; I had obtained four men at Wahai; who; with my Amboynese hunter; constituted my crew。

Between Ceram and Mysol there are sixty miles of open sea; and along this wide channel the east monsoon blows strongly; so that with native praus; which will not lay up to the wind; it requires some care in crossing。 In order to give ourselves sufficient leeway; we sailed back from Wahai eastward; along the coast of Ceram; with the land…breeze; but in the morning (June 18th) had not gone nearly so far as I expected。 My pilot; an old and experienced sailor; named Gurulampoko; assured me there was a current setting to the eastward; and that we could easily lay across to Silinta; in Mysol。 As we got out from the land the wind increased; and there was a considerable sea; which made my short little vessel plunge and roll about violently。 By sunset …we had not got halfway across; but could see Mysol distinctly。 All night we went along uneasily; and at daybreak; on looking out anxiously; I found that we had fallen much to the westward during the night; owing; no doubt; to the pilot being sleepy and not keeping the boat sufficiently close to the wind。 We could see the mountains distinctly; but it was clear we should not reach Silinta; and should have some difficulty in getting to the extreme westward point of the island。 The sea was now very boisterous; and our prau was continually beaten to leeward by the waves; and after another weary day we found w e could not get to Mysol at all; but might perhaps reach the island called Pulo Kanary; about ten miles to the north…west。 Thence we might await a favourable wind to reach Waigamma; on the north side of the island; and visit Allen by means of a small boat。

About nine o'clock at night; greatly to my satisfaction; we got under the lea of this island; into quite smooth waterfor I had been very sick and uncomfortable; and had eaten scarcely anything since the preceding morning。 We were slowly nearing the shore; which the smooth dark water told us we could safely approach; and were congratulating ourselves on soon being at anchor; with the prospect of hot coffee; a good supper; and a sound sleep; when the wind completely dropped; and we had to get out the oars to row。 We were not more than two hundred yards from the shore; when I noticed that we seemed to get no nearer although the men were rowing hard; but drifted to the westward; and the prau would not obey the helm; but continually fell off; and gave us much trouble to bring her up again。 Soon a laud ripple of water told us we were seized by one of those treacherous currents which so frequently frustrate all the efforts of the voyager in these seas; the men threw down the oars in despair; and in a few minutes we drifted to leeward of the island fairly out to sea again; and lost our last chance of ever reaching Mysol! Hoisting our jib; we lay to; and in the morning found ourselves only a few miles from the island; but wit; such a steady wind blowing from its direction as to render it impossible for us to get back to it。

We now made sail to the northward; hoping soon to get a more southerly wind。 Towards noon the sea was much smoother; and with a S。S。E。 wind we were laying in the direction of Salwatty; which I hoped to reach; as I could there easily get a boat to take provisions and stores to my companion in Mysol。 This wind did not; however; last long; but died away into a calm; and a light west wind springing up; with a dark bank of clouds; again gave us hopes of reaching Mysol。 We were soon; however; again disappointed。 The E。S。E。 wind began to blow again with violence; and continued all night in irregular gusts; and with a short cross sea tossed us about unmercifully; and so continually took our sails aback; that we were at length forced to run before it with our jib only; to escape being swamped by our heavy mainsail。 After another miserable and anxious night; we found that we had drifted westward of the island of Poppa; and the wind being again a little southerly; we made all sail in order to reach it。 This we did not succeed in doing; passing to the north…west; when the wind again blew hard from the E。S。E。; and our last hope of finding a refuge till better weather was frustrated。 This was a very serious matter to me; as I could not tell how Charles Allen might act; if; after waiting in vain for me; he should return to Wahai; and find that I had left there long before; and had not since been heard of。 Such an event as our missing an island forty miles long would hardly occur to him; and he would conclude either that our boat had foundered; or that my crew had murdered me and run away with her。 However; as it was physically impossible now for me to reach him; the only thing to be done was to make the best of my way to Waigiou; and trust to our meeting some traders; who might convey to him the news of my safety。

Finding on my map a group of three small islands; twenty…five miles north of Poppa; I resolved; if possible; to rest there a day or two。 We could lay our boat's head N。E。 by N。; but a heavy sea from the eastward so continually beat us off our course; and we made so much leeway; that I found it would be as much as we could do to reach them。 It was a delicate point to keep our head in the best direction; neither so close to the wind as to stop our way; or so free as to carry us too far to leeward。 I continually directed the steersman myself; and by incessant vigilance succeeded; just at sunset; 
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