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had suitable to my purpose； and hawing so often experienced the advantages of living close to or just within the forest； I obtained the assistance of half…a…dozen men； and having selected a spot near the path and the stream； and close to a fine fig… tree； which stood just within the forest； we cleared the ground and set to building a house。 As I did not expect to stay here so long as I had done at Dorey； I built a long； low； narrow shed； about seven feet high on one side and four on the other； which required but little wood； and was put up very rapidly。 Our sails； with a few old attaps from a deserted but in the village； formed the walls； and a quantity of 〃cadjans；〃 or palm…leaf mats； covered in the roof。 On the third day my house was finished； and all my things put in and comfortably arranged to begin work； and I was quite pleased at having got established so quickly and in such a nice situation。
It had been so far fine weather； but in the night it rained hard； and we found our mat roof would not keep out water。 It first began to drop； and then to stream over everything。 I had to get up in the middle of the night to secure my insect…boxes； rice； and other perishable articles； and to find a dry place to sleep in； for my bed was soaked。 Fresh leaks kept forming as the rain continued； and w e all passed a very miserable and sleepless night。 In the morning the sun shone brightly； and everything was put out to dry。 We tried to find out why the mats leaked； and thought we had discovered that they had been laid on upside down。 Having shifted there all； and got everything dry and comfortable by the evening； we again went to bed； and before midnight were again awaked by torrent of rain and leaks streaming in upon us as bad as ever。 There was no more sleep for us that night； and the next day our roof was again taken to pieces； and we came to the conclusion that the fault was a want of slope enough in the roof for mats； although it would be sufficient for the usual attap thatch。 I therefore purchased a few new and some old attaps； and in the parts these would not cover we put the mats double； and then at last had the satisfaction of finding our roof tolerably water…tight。
I was now able to begin working at the natural history of the island。 When I first arrived I was surprised at being told that there were no Paradise Birds at Muka； although there were plenty at Bessir； a place where the natives caught them and prepared the skins。 I assured the people I had heard the cry of these birds close to the village； but they world not believe that I could know their cry。 However； the very first time I went into the forest I not only heard but saw them； and was convinced there were plenty about； but they were very shy； and it was some time before we got any。 My hunter first shot a female； and I one day got very close to a fine male。 He was； as I expected； the rare red species； Paradisea rubra； which alone inhabits this island； and is found nowhere else。 He was quite low down； running along a bough searching for insects； almost like a woodpecker； and the long black riband…like filaments in his tail hung down in the most graceful double curve imaginable。 I covered him with my gun； and was going to use the barrel which had a very small charge of powder and number eight shot； so as not to injure his plumage； but the gun missed fire； and he was off in an instant among the thickest jungle。 Another day we saw no less than eight fine males at different times； and fired four times at them； but though other birds at the same distance almost always dropped； these all got away； and I began to think we were not to get this magnificent species。 At length the fruit ripened on the fig…tree close by my house； and many birds came to feed on it； and one morning； as I was taking my coffee； a male Paradise Bird was seen to settle on its top。 I seized my gun； ran under the tree； and； gazing up； could see it flying across from branch to branch； seizing a fruit here and another there； and then； before I could get a sufficient aim to shoot at such a height （for it was one of the loftiest trees of the tropics）； it was away into the forest。 They now visited the tree every morning； but they stayed so short a time； their motions were so rapid； and it was so difficult to see them； owing to the lower trees； which impeded the view； that it was only after several days' watching； and one or two misses； that I brought down my birda male in the most magnificent plumage。
This bird differs very much from the two large species which I had already obtained； and； although it wants the grace imparted by their long golden trains； is in many respects more remarkable and more beautiful。 The head； back； and shoulders are clothed with a richer yellow； the deep metallic green colour of the throat extends further over the head； and the feathers are elongated on the forehead into two little erectile crests。 The side plumes are shorter； but are of a rich red colour； terminating in delicate white points； and the middle tail… feathers are represented by two long rigid glossy ribands； which are black； thin； and semi…cylindrical； and droop gracefully in a spiral curve。 Several other interesting birds were obtained； and about half…a…dozen quite new ones； but none of any remarkable beauty； except the lovely little dove； Ptilonopus pulchellus； which with several other pigeons I shot on the same fig…tree close to my house。 It is of a beautiful green colour above； with a forehead of the richest crimson； while beneath it is ashy white and rich yellow； banded with violet red。
On the evening of our arrival at Muka I observed what appeared like a display of Aurora Borealis； though I could hardly believe that this was possible at a point a little south of the equator。 The night was clear and calm； and the northern sky presented a diffused light； with a constant succession of faint vertical flashings or flickerings； exactly similar to an ordinary aurora in England。 The next day was fine； but after that the weather was unprecedentedly bad； considering that it ought to have been the dry monsoon。 For near a month we had wet weather； the sun either not appearing at all； or only for an hour or two about noon。 Morning and evening； as well as nearly all night； it rained or drizzled； and boisterous winds； with dark clouds； formed the daily programme。 With the exception that it was never cold； it was just such weather as a very bad English November or February。
The people of Waigiou are not truly indigenes of the island； which possesses no 〃Alfuros；〃 or aboriginal inhabitants。 They appear to be a mixed race； partly from Gilolo； partly from New Guinea。 Malays and Alfuros from the former island have probably settled here； and many of them have taken Papuan wives from Salwatty or Dorey； while the influx of people from those places； and of slaves； has led to the formation of a tribe exhibiting almost all the transitions from a nearly pure Malayan to an entirely Papuan type。 The language spoken by them is entirely Papuan； being that which is used on all the coasts of Mysol； Salwatty； the north…west of New Guinea； and the islands in the great Geelvink Bay；a fact which indicates the way in which the coast settlements have been formed。 The fact that so many of the islands between New Guinea and the Moluccassuch as Waigiou； Guebe； Poppa； Obi； Batchian； as well as the south and east peninsulas of Gilolopossess no aboriginal tribes； but are inhabited by people who are evidently mongrels and wanderers； is a remarkable corroborative proof of the distinctness of the Malayan and Papuan races； and the separation of the geographical areas they inhabit。 If these two great races were direct modifications； the one of the other； we should expect to find in the intervening region some homogeneous indigenous race presenting intermediate characters。 For example； between the whitest inhabitants of Europe and the black Klings of South India； there are in the intervening districts homogeneous races which form a gradual transition from one to the other； while in America； although there is a perfect transition from the Anglo… Saxon to the negro； and from the Spaniard to the Indian； there is no homogeneous race forming a natural transition from one to the other。 In the Malay Archipelago we have an excellent example of two absolutely distinct races； which appear to have approached each other； and intermingled in an unoccupied territory at a very recent epoch in the history of man； and I feel satisfied that no unprejudiced person could study them on the spot without being convinced that this is the true solution of the problem； rather than the almost universally accepted view that they are but modifications of one and the same race。
The people of Muka live in that abject state of poverty that is almost always found where the sago…tree is abundant。 Very few of them take the trouble to plant any vegetables or fruit； but live almost entirely on sago and fish； selling a little tripang or tortoiseshell to buy the scanty clothing they require。 Almost all of them； however； possess one or more Papuan slaves； on whose labour they live in almost absolute idleness； just going out on little fishing or trading excursions； as an excitement in their monotonou