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the malay archipelago-2-第55章

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these tides; that came mostly from the west; and the wind being from that quarter we commonly heard them a long time before they came; and sometimes lowered our topsails; thinking it was a gust of wind。 They were of great length; from north to south; but their breadth not exceeding 200 yards; and they drove a great pace。 For though we had little wind to move us; yet these world soon pass away; and leave the water very smooth; and just before we encountered them we met a great swell; but it did not break。〃 Some time afterwards; I learnt that an earthquake had been felt on the coast of Gilolo the very day we had encountered these curious waves。

When daylight came; we saw the land of Gilolo a few miles off; but the point was unfortunately a little to windward of us。 We tried to brace up all we could to round it; but as we approached the shore we got into a strong current setting northward; which carried us so rapidly with it that we found it necessary to stand off again; in order to get out of its influence。 Sometimes we approached the point a little; and our hopes revived; then the wind fell; and we drifted slowly away。 Night found us in nearly the same position as we had occupied in the morning; so we hung down our anchor with about fifteen fathoms of cable to prevent drifting。 On the morning of the 7th we were however; a good way up the coast; and we now thought our only chance would be to got close in…shore; where there might be a return current; and we could then row。 The prau was heavy; and my men very poor creatures for work; so that it took us six hours to get to the edge of the reef that fringed the shore; and as the wind might at any moment blow on to it; our situation was a very dangerous one。 Luckily; a short distance off there was a sandy bay; where a small stream stopped the growth of the coral; and by evening we reached this and anchored for the night。 Here we found some Galela men shooting deer and pigs; but they could not or would not speak Malay; and we could get little information from them。 We found out that along shore the current changed with the tide; while about a mile out it was always one way; and against us; and this gave us some hopes of getting back to the point; from which we were now distant twenty miles。 Next morning we found that the Galela men had left before daylight; having perhaps some vague fear of our intentions; anal very likely taking me for a pirate。 During the morning a boat passed; and the people informed us that; at a short distance further towards the point; there was a much better harbour; where there were plenty of Galela men; from whom we; might probably get some assistance。

At three in the afternoon; when the current turned; we started; but having a head…wind; made slow progress。 At dusk we reached the entrance of the harbour; but an eddy and a gust of wind carried us away and out to sea。 After sunset there was a land breeze; and we sailed a little to the south…east。 It then became calm; and eve hung down our anchor forty fathoms; to endeavour to counteract the current; but it was of little avail; and in the morning we found ourselves a good way from shore; and just opposite our anchorage of the day before; which we again reached by hard rowing。 I gave the men this day to rest and sleep; and the next day (Oct。 10th) we again started at two in the morning with a land breeze。 After I had set them to their oars; and given instructions to keep close in…shore; and on no account to get out to sea; I went below; being rather unwell。 At daybreak I found; to my great astonishment; that we were again far off…shore; and was told that the wind had gradually turned more ahead; and had carried us outnone of them having the sense to take down the sail and row in…shore; or to call me。 As soon as it was daylight; we saw that we had drifted back; and were again opposite our former anchorage; and; for the third time; had to row hard to get to it。 As we approached the shore; I saw that the current was favourable to us; and we continued down the coast till we were close to the entrance to the lower harbour。 Just as we were congratulating ourselves on having at last reached it; a strong south…east squall carne on; blowing us back; and rendering it impossible for us to enter。 Not liking the idea of again returning; I determined on trying to anchor; and succeeded in doing so; in very deep water and close to the reefs; but the prevailing winds were such that; should we not hold; we should have no difficulty in getting out to sea。 By the time the squall had passed; the current had turned against us; and we expected to have to wait till four in the afternoon; when we intended to enter the harbour。

Now; however; came the climax of our troubles。 The swell produced by the squall made us jerk our cable a good deal; and it suddenly snapped low down in the water。 We drifted out to sea; and immediately set our mainsail; but we were now without any anchor; and in a vessel so poorly manned that it could not be rowed against the most feeble current or the slightest wind; it word be madness to approach these dangerous shores except in the most perfect calm。 We had also only three days' food left。 It was therefore out of the question making any further attempts to get round the point without assistance; and I at once determined to run to the village of Gani…diluar; about ten miles further north; where we understood there was a good harbour; and where we might get provisions and a few more rowers。 Hitherto winds and currents load invariably opposed our passage southward; and we might have expected them to be favourable to us now we had turned our bowsprit in an opposite direction。 But it immediately fell calm; and then after a time a westerly land breeze set in; which would not serve us; and we had to row again for hours; and when night came had not reached the village。 We were so fortunate; however; as to find a deep sheltered cove where the water was quite smooth; and we constructed a temporary anchor by filling a sack with stones from our ballast; which being well secured by a network of rattans held us safely during the night。 The next morning my men went on shore to cut wood suitable for making fresh anchors; and about noon; the current turning in our favour; we proceeded to the village; where we found an excellent and well…protected anchorage。

On inquiry; we found that the head men resided at the other Gani on the western side of the peninsula; and it was necessary to send messengers across (about half a day's journey) to inform them of my arrival; and to beg them to assist me。 I then succeeded in buying a little sago; some dried deer…meat and cocoa…nuts; which at once relieved our immediate want of something to eat。 At night we found our bag of atones still held us very well; and we slept tranquilly。

The next day (October 12th); my men set to work making anchors and oars。 The native Malay anchor is ingeniously constructed of a piece of tough forked timber; the fluke being strengthened by twisted rattans binding it to the stem; while the cross…piece is formed of a long flat stone; secured in the same manner。 These anchors when well made; hold exceedingly arm; and; owing to the expense of iron; are still almost universally used on board the smaller praus。 In the afternoon the head men arrived; and promised me as many rowers as I could put on the prau; and also brought me a few eggs and a little rice; which were very acceptable。 On the 14th there was a north wind all day; which would have been invaluable to us a few days earlier; but which was now only tantalizing。 On the 16th; all being ready; we started at daybreak with two new anchors and ten rowers; who understood their work。 By evening we had come more than half…way to the point; and anchored for the night in a small bay。 At three the next morning I ordered the anchor up; but the rattan cable parted close to the bottom; having been chafed by rocks; and we then lost our third anchor on this unfortunate voyage。 The day was calm; and by noon we passed the southern point of Gilolo; which had delayed us eleven days; whereas the whole voyage during this monsoon should not have occupied more than half that time。 Having got round the point our course was exactly in the opposite direction to what it had been; and now; as usual; the wind changed accordingly; coming from the north and north…west;so that we still had to row every mile up to the village of Gani; which we did not reach till the evening of the 18th。 A Bugis trader who was residing there; and the Senaji; or chief; were very kind; the former assisting me with a spare anchor and a cable; and making me a present of some vegetables; and the latter baking fresh sago cakes for my men; and giving rue a couple of fowls; a bottle of oil; and some pumpkins。 As the weather was still very uncertain; I got four extra men to accompany me to Ternate; for which place we started on the afternoon of the 20th。

We had to keep rowing all night; the land breezes being too weak to enable us to sail against the current。 During the afternoon of the 21st we had an hour's fair wind; which soon changed into a heavy squall with rain; and my clumsy men let the mainsail get taken aback and nearly upset us; tearing the sail; and; what 
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