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s took us up several low but wide stairways to a hall。 In the hall was a little fat young man in a frock coat and a fez； and he shook hands with us； and walked into another room and we all sat down on chairs covered with white muslin。 I talked and Little talked about me and the Khedive pretended to be very much honored； and said the American who had come over after our rebellion had done more for the officers in his army than had anyone else； meaning the English。 He did not say that because we were Americans； but because he hates the English。 He struck me as being stubborn； which is one side of stupidness and yet not stupid； and I occasionally woke him to bursts of enthusiasm over the Soudanese。 His bursts were chiefly 〃Ali。〃 Little seemed to amuse him very much； and Little treated him exactly like a little boy who needed to be cheered up。 I think in one way it was the most curious contrast I ever saw。 〃Ed〃 Little of Abilene； Kansas； telling the ruler of Egypt not to worry； that he had plenty of years in which to live and that he would get ahead of them all yet。 Those were not his words； but that was the tone； he was perfectly friendly and sincere about it。
This place appeals to me as about the best place with which to get mixed up with that I know； and I've gone over a great many maps since I left home and know just how small the world is。 So； I sent the Khedive my books after having asked his permission； and received the most abject thanks。 And as Cromer called on me； I am going to drop around on him with a few of them。 Some day there will be fine things going on here； and there is only one God； and Lord Cromer is his Prophet in this country。 They think that Mohammed is but they are wrong。 He is a very big man。 The day he sent his ultimatum to the Khedive telling him to dismiss Facta Pasha and put back Riaz Pasha； he went out in full view of the Gezerik drive and played lawn tennis。 Any man who can cable for three thousand more troops to Malta and stop a transport full of two thousand more at Aden with one hand； and bang tennis balls about with the other； is going in the long run to get ahead of a stout little boy in a red fez。 It is getting awfully hot here； almost hot enough for me； and I can lay aside my overcoat by ten o'clock in the morning。 Everyone else has been in flannels and pith helmets； but as they had to wear overcoats at night I could not see the advantage of the costume。
DICK。
I open this to say that ALL of your letters have just come； so I have intoxicated myself with them for the last hour and can go over them again tomorrow。 I cannot tell you； dearest； what a delight your letters are and how I enjoy the clippings。 I think of you all the time and how you would love this Bible land and seeing the places where Pharaoh's daughter found Moses； and hearing people talk of St。 Paul and the plagues of Egypt and Joseph and Mary just as though they had lived yesterday。 I have seen two St。 Johns already； with long hair and melancholy wild eyes and bare breasts and legs； with sheepskin covering； eating figs and preaching their gospel。 Yesterday two men came running into town and told one of the priests that they had seen the new moon in a certain well； and the priest proclaimed a month of fasting； and the men who pulled us up the Pyramid had to rest because they had not eaten or drunk all day。 At six a sheik called from the village and all the donkeyboys and guides around the Sphinx ran to get water and coffee and food。 Think of thatof two men running through the street to say that they had seen the new moon in a well； when every shop sells Waterbury watches and the people who passed them were driving dogcarts with English coachmen in top…boots behind。 Is there any other place as incongruous as this； as old and as new？
DICK。
ATHENS； March 30； 1893。 DEAR MOTHER：
I am now in Athens； how I got here is immaterial。 Suffice it to say that never in all my life was I so ill as I was in the two days crossing from Alexandria to Piraeus； which I did with two other men in the same cabin more ill than I and praying and swearing and groaning all the time。 〃It was awful。〃
〃I have crossed in many ships upon the seas And some of them were good and some were not； In German； P & O's and Genoese； But the Khedive's was the worst one of the lot。 We never got a moment's peace in her For everybody'd howl or pray or bellow； She threw us on our heads or on our knees； And turned us all an unbecoming yellow。〃
Athens is a small town but fine。 It is chiefly yellow houses with red roofs； and mountains around it； which remind you of pictures you have seen when a youth。 Also olive trees and straight black pines and the Acropolis。 There is not much of it left as far as I can see from the city； but what there is is enough to make you wish you had brushed up your Greek history。 I have now reached the place where Pan has a cave； where the man voted against Aristides because he was humanly tired of hearing him called the Just and where the Minotaur ate young women。
What was in the Isle of Crete but the rock from which the father of Theseus threw himselfis still here！ Also the hill upon which Paul stood and told the Athenians they were too superstitious。 You can imagine my feelings at finding all of these things are true。 After this I am going to the North Pole to find Santa Claus and so renew my youth。
I regret to say that it is raining very hard and Athens is not set for a rainstorm。 It is also cold but as I have not been warm since I crossed the North River with Chas。 amid cakes of ice that is of no consequence。 When I come here again I come in the summer。 The good old rule that it is cold in winter and warm in summer is a good enough rule to follow。 You have only to travel to find out how universally cold winter is。 last night I was in Cairo； I got in a carriage and drove out alone to the Pyramids。 It was beautiful moonlight。 I got a donkey and rode up around them and then walked over to the Sphinx。 I had never understood or seen it before。 It was the creepiest and most impressive thing I ever had happen to me； I do believe。 There was no one except the two donkey…boys and myself and the Sphinx。 All about was the desert and above it the purple sky and the white stars and the great negro's head in front of you with its paws stretched out； and the moonlight turning it into shadows and white lines。 I think I stood there so long that I got sort of dizzy。 It was just as if I had been the first man to stumble across it； and I felt that I was way back thousands of years and that the ghosts of Caesar and Napoleon and Cleopatra and the rest were in the air。 That was worth the entire trip to me。 This place promises to be most exciting； the New York artists are all here； they are the most jauntily dull people I ever met。 Do you know what I mean？ They are very nice but so stupid。 I don't let them bother me。 Who was the chap who wrote about the bottle of Malvoisie？ because I got a bottle of it for BREAKFAST and it is NO GOOD。 It is like sweet port。 But on account of the poem and its being vin du pays I got it。
Dear Mother； I wish you were here now and enjoying all these beautiful things。 I got you a present in Cairo that will amuse you。 Had I stayed on in Cairo I should have had much and many marks of distinction from the English。 Lady Gower…Browne； who found out from them that I had called and that they had done nothing except to be rude； raised a great hue and cry and everything changed。 What she said of me I don't know but it made a most amusing difference。 General Walker galloped a half mile across the desert to give me his own copy of the directions for the sham battle； and I was to have met Cromer at dinner tete…a…tete； and General Kitchener sent apologies by two other generals and all the subalterns called on me in a body。 That was the day before I left。 I don't know what Lady Gower…Browne said； but it made a change which I am sorry I could not avail myself of as I want politics as well as memories。
The next time I come I shall go to even fewer places and see more people。
If the Harpers don't look out our interests will clash。 I look at it like this。 I can always see the old historical things and take my children up the Nile； but I want now to make friends with the Mammon of unrighteousness and the men of the hour。 I may want to occupy an hour or two myself some day and they can help me。 If America starts in annexing islands she will need people to tell her how it is generally done and it is generally done； I find； by the English。 I may give up literature and start annexing things like Alexander and Caesar and Napoleon。 They say there will be another crisis in Cairo in a month or so。 If that be true I am all right and solid with both parties。 But it has got to be worth while of course or I won't go back。 There is a king living in a fine palace across the square from my window； one of his officers is now changing the guard in the rain。 I hope to call on the king because I like his guard。 They wear petticoats and toes turned up in front。 Don't you mind what I say about liking politi