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at the Grande Ronde reservation were taken down the coast to the
Siletz reservation； and I was transferred temporarily to Fort
Haskins； on the latter reserve； and assigned to the duty of
completing it and building a blockhouse for the police control of the
Indians placed there。
While directing this work； I undertook to make a road across the
coast mountains from King's Valley to the Siletz； to shorten the haul
between the two points by a route I had explored。 I knew there were
many obstacles in the way； but the gain would be great if we could
overcome them； so I set to work with the enthusiasm of a young path…
finder。 The point at which the road was to cross the range was rough
and precipitous； but the principal difficulty in making it would be
from heavy timber on the mountains that had been burned over years
and years before； until nothing was left but limbless trunks of dead
treesfirs and pinesthat had fallen from time to time until the
ground was matted with huge logs from five to eight feet in diameter。
These could not be chopped with axes nor sawed by any ordinary means；
therefore we had to burn them into suitable lengths； and drag the
sections to either side of the roadway with from four to six yoke of
oxen。
The work was both tedious and laborious； but in time perseverance
surmounted all obstacles and the road was finished； though its grades
were very steep。 As soon as it was completed； I wished to
demonstrate its value practically； so I started a Government wagon
over it loaded with about fifteen hundred pounds of freight drawn by
six yoke of oxen； and escorted by a small detachment of soldiers。
When it had gone about seven miles the sergeant in charge came back
to the post and reported his inability to get any further。 Going out
to the scene of difficulty I found the wagon at the base of a steep
hill； stalled。 Taking up a whip myself； I directed the men to lay on
their gads； for each man had supplied himself with a flexible hickory
withe in the early stages of the trip； to start the team； but this
course did not move the wagon nor have much effect on the demoralized
oxen； but following as a last resort an example I heard of on a
former occasion； that brought into use the rough language of the
country； I induced the oxen to move with alacrity； and the wagon and
contents were speedily carried to the summit。 The whole trouble was
at once revealed： the oxen had been broken and trained by a man who；
when they were in a pinch； had encouraged them by his frontier
vocabulary； and they could not realize what was expected of them
under extraordinary conditions until they heard familiar and possibly
profanely urgent phrases。 I took the wagon to its destination； but
as it was not brought back； even in all the time I was stationed in
that country； I think comment on the success of my road is
unnecessary。
I spent many happy months at Fort Haskins； remaining there until the
post was nearly completed and its garrison increased by the arrival
of Captain F。 T。 Denta brother…in…law of Captain Ulysses S。 Grant
with his company of the Fourth Infantry； in April； 1857。 In the
summer of 1856； and while I was still on duty there； the Coquille
Indians on the Siletz； and down near the Yaquina Bay； became； on
account of hunger and prospective starvation； very much excited and
exasperated； getting beyond the control of their agent； and even
threatening his life； so a detachment of troops was sent out to set
things to rights； and I took command of it。 I took with me most of
the company； and arrived at Yaquina Bay in time to succor the agent；
who for some days had been besieged in a log hut by the Indians and
had almost abandoned hope of rescue。
Having brought with me over the mountains a few head of beef cattle
for the hungry Indians； without thinking of running any great
personal risk I had six beeves killed some little distance from my
camp； guarding the meat with four Soldiers； whom I was obliged to
post as sentinels around the small area on which the carcasses lay。
The Indians soon formed a circle about the sentinels； and impelled by
starvation； attempted to take the beef before it could be equally
divided。 This was of course resisted； when they drew their knives
their guns having been previously taken away from themand some of
the inferior chiefs gave the signal to attack。 The principal chief；
Tetootney John； and two other Indians joined me in the centre of the
circle； and protesting that they would die rather than that the
frenzied onslaught should succeed； harangued the Indians until the
rest of the company hastened up from camp and put an end to the
disturbance。 I always felt grateful to Tetootney John for his
loyalty on this occasion； and many times afterward aided his family
with a little coffee and sugar； but necessarily surreptitiously； so
as not to heighten the prejudices that his friendly act had aroused
among his Indian comrades。
The situation at Yaquina Bay did not seem very safe； notwithstanding
the supply of beef we brought； and the possibility that the starving
Indians might break out was ever present； so to anticipate any
further revolt； I called for more troops。 The request was complied
with by sending to my assistance the greater part of my own company
（〃K〃）from Fort Yamhill。 The men； inspired by the urgency of our
situation； marched more than forty miles a day； accomplishing the
whole distance in so short a period； that I doubt if the record has
ever been beaten。 When this reinforcement arrived； the Indians saw
the futility of further demonstrations against their agent； who they
seemed to think was responsible for the insufficiency of food； and
managed to exist with the slender rations we could spare and such
indifferent food as they could pick up； until the Indian Department
succeeded in getting up its regular supplies。 In the past the poor
things had often been pinched by hunger and neglect； and at times
their only food was rock oysters； clams and crabs。 Great quantities
of these shell…fish could be gathered in the bay near at hand； but
the mountain Indians； who had heretofore lived on the flesh of
mammal； did not take kindly to mollusks； and； indeed； ate the shell…
fish only as a last resort。
Crab catching at night on the Yaquina Bay by the coast Indians was a
very picturesque scene。 It was mostly done by the squaws and
children； each equipped with a torch in one hand； and a sharp…pointed
stick in the other to take and lift the fish into baskets slung on
the back to receive them。 I have seen at times hundreds of squaws
and children wading about in Yaquina Bay taking crabs in this manner；
and the reflection by the water of the light from the many torches；
with the movements of the Indians while at work； formed a weird and
diverting picture of which we were never tired。
Not long after the arrival of the additional troops from Yamhill； it
became apparent that the number of men at Yaquina Bay would have to
be reduced； so in view of this necessity； it was deemed advisable to
build a block…house for the better protection of the agents and I
looked about for suitable ground on which to erect it。 Nearly all
around the bay the land rose up from the beach very abruptly； and the
only good site that could be found was some level ground used as the
burial…place of the Yaquina Bay Indiansa small band of fish…eating
people who had lived near this point on the coast for ages。 They
were a robust lot； of tall and well…shaped figures； and were called
in the Chinook tongue 〃salt chuck；〃 which means fish…eaters； or
eaters of food from the salt water。 Many of the young men and women
were handsome in feature below the forehead； having fine eyes；
aquiline noses and good mouths； but； in conformity with a long…
standing custom； all had flat heads； which gave them a distorted and
hideous appearance； particularly some of the women； who went to the
extreme of fashion and flattened the head to the rear in a sharp
horizontal ridge by confining it between two boards； one running back
from the forehead at an angle of about forty degrees； and the other
up perpendicularly from the back of the neck。 When a head had been
shaped artistically the dusky maiden owner was marked as a belle； and
one could become reconciled to it after a time； but when carelessness
and neglect had governed in the adjustment of the boards； there
probably was nothing in the form of a human being on the face of the
earth that appeared so ugly。
It was the mortuary ground of these Indians that occupied the only
level spot we could get for the block…house。 Their dead were buried
in canoes； which rested in the crotches of forked sticks a few feet
above…ground。 The graveyard was not large； containing probably from
forty to fifty canoes in a fair state of preservation。 According to
the custom of all Indian tribes on the Pacific coast； when one