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a point about two hundred yards distant from the party； when； relying
on the speed of our horses rather than on the peaceable intentions of
the savages； I hoped to succeed in cutting around them and take the
trail beyond。 Being on foot they could not readily catch us； and
inasmuch as their arrows were good for a range of only about sixty
yards； I had no fear of any material damage on that score。
On reaching the place selected for our flank movement we made a dash
to the left of the trail； through the widest part of the valley； and
ran our horses swiftly by； but I noticed that the Indians did not
seem to be disturbed by the manoeuvre and soon realized that this
indifference was occasioned by the knowledge that we could not cross
Hat Creek； a deep stream with vertical banks； too broad to be leaped
by our horses。 We were obliged； therefore； to halt； and the Indians
again made demonstrations of friendship； some of them even getting
into the stream to show that they were at the ford。 Thus reassured；
we regained our confidence and boldly crossed the river in the midst
of them。 After we had gained the bluff on the other side of the
creek； I looked down into the valley of Pit River； and could plainly
see the camp of the surveying party。 Its proximity was the influence
which had doubtless caused the peaceable conduct of the Indians。
Probably the only thing that saved us was their ignorance of our
being in their rear； until we stumbled on them almost within sight of
the large party under Williamson。
The Pit River Indians were very hostile at that time； and for many
succeeding years their treachery and cruelty brought misfortune and
misery to the white settlers who ventured their lives in search of
home and fortune in the wild and isolated section over which these
savages roamed。 Not long after Williamson's party passed through
their country； the Government was compelled to send into it a
considerable force for the purpose of keeping them under control。
The outcome of this was a severe fightresulting in the loss of a
good many livesbetween the hostiles and a party of our troops under
Lieutenant George Crook。 It finally ended in the establishment of a
military post in the vicinity of the battle…ground； for the permanent
occupation of the country。
A great load was lifted from my heart when I found myself so near
Williamson's camp； which I joined August 4； 1855； receiving a warm
welcome from the officers。 During the afternoon I relieved
Lieutenant Hood of the command of the personal escort； and he was
ordered to return； with twelve of the mounted men； over the trail I
had followed。 I pointed out to him on the map the spot where he
would find the two men left on the roadside； and he was directed to
take them into Fort Reading。 They were found without difficulty； and
carried in to the post。 The sick manDuryeawhom I had expected
never to see again； afterward became the hospital steward at Fort
Yamhill； Oregon； when I was stationed there。
The Indians that I had passed at the ford came to the bluff above the
camp； and arranging themselves in a squatting posture； looked down
upon Williamson's party with longing eyes； in expectation of a feast。
They were a pitiable lot； almost naked； hungry and cadaverous。
Indians are always hungry； but these poor creatures were particularly
so； as their usual supply of food had grown very scarce from one
cause and another。
In prosperity they mainly subsisted on fish； or game killed with the
bow and arrow。 When these sources failed they lived on grasshoppers；
and at this season the grasshopper was their principal food。 In
former years salmon were very abundant in the streams of the
Sacramento Valley； and every fall they took great quantities of these
fish and dried them for winter use； but alluvial mining had of late
years defiled the water of the different streams and driven the fish
out。 On this account the usual supply of salmon was very limited。
They got some trout high up on the rivers； above the sluices and
rockers of the miners； but this was a precarious source from which to
derive food； as their means of taking the trout were very primitive。
They had neither hooks nor lines； but depended entirely on a
contrivance made from long； slender branches of willow； which grew on
the banks of most of the streams。 One of these branches would be
cut； and after sharpening the butt…end to a point； split a certain
distance； and by a wedge the prongs divided sufficiently to admit a
fish between。 The Indian fisherman would then slyly put the forked
end in the water over his intended victim； and with a quick dart
firmly wedge him between the prongs。 When secured there； the work of
landing him took but a moment。 When trout were plentiful this
primitive mode of taking them was quite successful； and I have often
known hundreds of pounds to be caught in this way； but when they were
scarce and suspicious the rude method was not rewarded with good
results。
The band looking down on us evidently had not had much fish or game
to eat for some time； so when they had made Williamson understand
that they were suffering for food he permitted them to come into
camp； and furnished them with a supply； which they greedily swallowed
as fast as it was placed at their service； regardless of possible
indigestion。 When they had eaten all they could hold； their
enjoyment was made complete by the soldiers； who gave them a quantity
of strong plug tobacco。 This they smoked incessantly； inhaling all
the smoke； so that none of the effect should be lost。 When we
abandoned this camp the next day； the miserable wretches remained in
it and collected the offal about the cooks' fires to feast still
more； piecing out the meal； no doubt； with their staple article of
foodgrasshoppers。
On the morning of August 5 Lieutenant Hood started back to Fort
Reading； and Lieutenant Williamson resumed his march for the Columbia
River。 Our course was up Pit River； by the lower and upper canons；
then across to the Klamath Lakes； then east； along their edge to the
upper lake。 At the middle Klamath Lake； just after crossing Lost
River and the Natural Bridge； we met a small party of citizens from
Jacksonville； Oregon； looking for hostile Indians who had committed
some depredations in their neighborhood。 From them we learned that
the Rogue River Indians in southern Oregon were on the war…path； and
that as the 〃regular troops up there were of no account； the citizens
had taken matters in hand； and intended cleaning up the hostiles。〃
They swaggered about our camp； bragged a good deal； cursed the
Indians loudly； and soundly abused the Government for not giving them
better protection。 It struck me； however； that they had not worked
very hard to find the hostiles； indeed； it could plainly be seen that
their expedition was a town…meeting sort of affair； and that anxiety
to get safe home was uppermost in their thoughts。 The enthusiasm
with which they started had all oozed out； and that night they
marched back to Jacksonville。 The next day； at the head of the lake；
we came across an Indian village； and I have often wondered since
what would have been the course pursued by these valiant warriors
from Jacksonville had they gone far enough to get into its vicinity。
When we reached the village the tepeesmade of grasswere all
standing； the fires burning and pots boilingthe pots filled with
camas and tula rootsbut not an Indian was to be seen。 Williamson
directed that nothing in the village should be disturbed； so guards
were placed over it to carry out his instructions and we went into
camp just a little beyond。 We had scarcely established ourselves
when a very old Indian rose up from the high grass some distance off；
and with peaceable signs approached our camp； evidently for the
purpose of learning whether or not our intentions were hostile。
Williamson told him we were friendly； that we had passed through his
village without molesting it； that we had put a guard there to secure
the property his people had abandoned in their fright； and that they
might come back in safety。 The old man searchingly eyed everything
around for some little time； and gaining confidence from the
peaceable appearance of the men； who were engaged in putting up the
tents and preparing their evening meal； he concluded to accept our
professions of friendship； and bring his people in。 Going out about
half a mile from the village he gave a peculiar yell； at which
between three and four hundred Indians arose simultaneously from the
ground； and in answer to his signal came out of the tall grass like a
swarm of locusts and soon overran our camp in search of food； for
like all Indians they were hungry。 They too； proved to be Pit
Rivers； and were not less repulsive than those of their tribe we had
met before。 They were aware of the hostilities going on between the
Rogue R