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chapels served by clergymen of English or Irish ordination； and by
tacit connivance quietly permitted in separate congregations
supplied with ministers by the successors of the bishops who were
deprived at the Revolution。
We came to Aberdeen on Saturday August 21。 On Monday we were
invited into the town…hall； where I had the freedom of the city
given me by the Lord Provost。 The honour conferred had all the
decorations that politeness could add； and what I am afraid I
should not have had to say of any city south of the Tweed； I found
no petty officer bowing for a fee。
The parchment containing the record of admission is； with the seal
appending； fastened to a riband and worn for one day by the new
citizen in his hat。
By a lady who saw us at the chapel； the Earl of Errol was informed
of our arrival； and we had the honour of an invitation to his seat；
called Slanes Castle； as I am told； improperly； from the castle of
that name； which once stood at a place not far distant。
The road beyond Aberdeen grew more stony； and continued equally
naked of all vegetable decoration。 We travelled over a tract of
ground near the sea； which； not long ago； suffered a very uncommon；
and unexpected calamity。 The sand of the shore was raised by a
tempest in such quantities； and carried to such a distance； that an
estate was overwhelmed and lost。 Such and so hopeless was the
barrenness superinduced； that the owner； when he was required to
pay the usual tax； desired rather to resign the ground。
SLANES CASTLE； THE BULLER OF BUCHAN
We came in the afternoon to Slanes Castle； built upon the margin of
the sea； so that the walls of one of the towers seem only a
continuation of a perpendicular rock； the foot of which is beaten
by the waves。 To walk round the house seemed impracticable。 From
the windows the eye wanders over the sea that separates Scotland
from Norway； and when the winds beat with violence must enjoy all
the terrifick grandeur of the tempestuous ocean。 I would not for
my amusement wish for a storm； but as storms； whether wished or
not； will sometimes happen； I may say； without violation of
humanity； that I should willingly look out upon them from Slanes
Castle。
When we were about to take our leave； our departure was prohibited
by the countess till we should have seen two places upon the coast；
which she rightly considered as worthy of curiosity； Dun Buy； and
the Buller of Buchan； to which Mr。 Boyd very kindly conducted us。
Dun Buy； which in Erse is said to signify the Yellow Rock； is a
double protuberance of stone； open to the main sea on one side； and
parted from the land by a very narrow channel on the other。 It has
its name and its colour from the dung of innumerable sea…fowls；
which in the Spring chuse this place as convenient for incubation；
and have their eggs and their young taken in great abundance。 One
of the birds that frequent this rock has； as we were told； its body
not larger than a duck's； and yet lays eggs as large as those of a
goose。 This bird is by the inhabitants named a Coot。 That which
is called Coot in England； is here a Cooter。
Upon these rocks there was nothing that could long detain
attention； and we soon turned our eyes to the Buller； or Bouilloir
of Buchan； which no man can see with indifference； who has either
sense of danger or delight in rarity。 It is a rock perpendicularly
tubulated； united on one side with a high shore； and on the other
rising steep to a great height； above the main sea。 The top is
open； from which may be seen a dark gulf of water which flows into
the cavity； through a breach made in the lower part of the
inclosing rock。 It has the appearance of a vast well bordered with
a wall。 The edge of the Buller is not wide； and to those that walk
round； appears very narrow。 He that ventures to look downward
sees； that if his foot should slip； he must fall from his dreadful
elevation upon stones on one side； or into water on the other。 We
however went round； and were glad when the circuit was completed。
When we came down to the sea； we saw some boats； and rowers； and
resolved to explore the Buller at the bottom。 We entered the arch；
which the water had made； and found ourselves in a place； which；
though we could not think ourselves in danger； we could scarcely
survey without some recoil of the mind。 The bason in which we
floated was nearly circular； perhaps thirty yards in diameter。 We
were inclosed by a natural wall； rising steep on every side to a
height which produced the idea of insurmountable confinement。 The
interception of all lateral light caused a dismal gloom。 Round us
was a perpendicular rock； above us the distant sky； and below an
unknown profundity of water。 If I had any malice against a walking
spirit； instead of laying him in the Red…sea； I would condemn him
to reside in the Buller of Buchan。
But terrour without danger is only one of the sports of fancy； a
voluntary agitation of the mind that is permitted no longer than it
pleases。 We were soon at leisure to examine the place with minute
inspection； and found many cavities which； as the waterman told us；
went backward to a depth which they had never explored。 Their
extent we had not time to try； they are said to serve different
purposes。 Ladies come hither sometimes in the summer with
collations； and smugglers make them storehouses for clandestine
merchandise。 It is hardly to be doubted but the pirates of ancient
times often used them as magazines of arms； or repositories of
plunder。
To the little vessels used by the northern rovers； the Buller may
have served as a shelter from storms； and perhaps as a retreat from
enemies； the entrance might have been stopped； or guarded with
little difficulty； and though the vessels that were stationed
within would have been battered with stones showered on them from
above； yet the crews would have lain safe in the caverns。
Next morning we continued our journey； pleased with our reception
at Slanes Castle； of which we had now leisure to recount the
grandeur and the elegance； for our way afforded us few topics of
conversation。 The ground was neither uncultivated nor unfruitful；
but it was still all arable。 Of flocks or herds there was no
appearance。 I had now travelled two hundred miles in Scotland； and
seen only one tree not younger than myself。
BAMFF
We dined this day at the house of Mr。 Frazer of Streichton； who
shewed us in his grounds some stones yet standing of a druidical
circle； and what I began to think more worthy of notice； some
forest trees of full growth。
At night we came to Bamff； where I remember nothing that
particularly claimed my attention。 The ancient towns of Scotland
have generally an appearance unusual to Englishmen。 The houses；
whether great or small； are for the most part built of stones。
Their ends are now and then next the streets； and the entrance into
them is very often by a flight of steps； which reaches up to the
second story； the floor which is level with the ground being
entered only by stairs descending within the house。
The art of joining squares of glass with lead is little used in
Scotland； and in some places is totally forgotten。 The frames of
their windows are all of wood。 They are more frugal of their glass
than the English； and will often； in houses not otherwise mean；
compose a square of two pieces； not joining like cracked glass； but
with one edge laid perhaps half an inch over the other。 Their
windows do not move upon hinges； but are pushed up and drawn down
in grooves； yet they are seldom accommodated with weights and
pullies。 He that would have his window open must hold it with his
hand； unless what may be sometimes found among good contrivers；
there be a nail which he may stick into a hole； to keep it from
falling。
What cannot be done without some uncommon trouble or particular
expedient； will not often be done at all。 The incommodiousness of
the Scotch windows keeps them very closely shut。 The necessity of
ventilating human habitations has not yet been found by our
northern neighbours； and even in houses well built and elegantly
furnished； a stranger may be sometimes forgiven； if he allows
himself to wish for fresher air。
These diminutive observations seem to take away something from the
dignity of writing； and therefore are never communicated but with
hesitation； and a little fear of abasement and contempt。 But it
must be remembered； that life consists not of a series of
illustrious actions； or elegant enjoyments； the greater part of our
time passes in compliance with necessities； in the performance of
daily duties； in the removal of small inconveniences； in the
procurement of petty pleasures； and we are well or ill at ease； as
the main stream of life glides on smoothly； or is ruffled by small
obstacles and frequent interruption。 The true state of every
nation is the state of common life。 The manners of a people are
not to be found in the schools of learning； or the palaces of
greatness； where the national character is obscured or obliterated
by travel or instruction； by philosophy or vanity； nor is public
happiness to be estimated by