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Captain Guy was a gentleman of great urbanity of manner； and of
considerable experience in the southern traffic； to which he had
devoted a great portion of his life。 He was deficient； however； in
energy； and； consequently； in that spirit of enterprise which is here
so absolutely requisite。 He was part owner of the vessel in which he
sailed； and was invested with discretionary powers to cruise in the
South Seas for any cargo which might come most readily to hand。 He
had on board； as usual in such voyages； beads； looking…glasses；
tinder…works； axes； hatchets； saws； adzes； planes； chisels； gouges；
gimlets； files； spokeshaves； rasps； hammers； nails； knives； scissors；
razors； needles； thread； crockery…ware； calico； trinkets； and other
similar articles。
The schooner sailed from Liverpool on the tenth of July； crossed
the Tropic of Cancer on the twenty…fifth； in longitude twenty degrees
west； and reached Sal； one of the Cape Verd islands； on the
twenty…ninth； where she took in salt and other necessaries for the
voyage。 On the third of August； she left the Cape Verds and steered
southwest； stretching over toward the coast of Brazil； so as to cross
the equator between the meridians of twenty…eight and thirty degrees
west longitude。 This is the course usually taken by vessels bound
from Europe to the Cape of Good Hope； or by that route to the East
Indies。 By proceeding thus they avoid the calms and strong contrary
currents which continually prevail on the coast of Guinea； while； in
the end； it is found to be the shortest track； as westerly winds are
never wanting afterward by which to reach the Cape。 It was Captain
Guy's intention to make his first stoppage at Kerguelen's Land… I
hardly know for what reason。 On the day we were picked up the
schooner was off Cape St。 Roque； in longitude thirty…one degrees
west； so that； when found； we had drifted probably； from north to
south； _not less than five…and…twenty degrees！_
On board the Jane Guy we were treated with all the kindness our
distressed situation demanded。 In about a fortnight； during which
time we continued steering to the southeast； with gentle breezes and
fine weather； both Peters and myself recovered entirely from the
effects of our late privation and dreadful sufferings； and we began
to remember what had passed rather as a frightful dream from which we
had been happily awakened； than as events which had taken place in
sober and naked reality。 I have since found that this species of
partial oblivion is usually brought about by sudden transition；
whether from joy to sorrow or from sorrow to joy… the degree of
forgetfulness being proportioned to the degree of difference in the
exchange。 Thus； in my own case； I now feel it impossible to realize
the full extent of the misery which I endured during the days spent
upon the hulk。 The incidents are remembered； but not the feelings
which the incidents elicited at the time of their occurrence。 I only
know； that when they did occur； I then thought human nature could
sustain nothing more of agony。
We continued our voyage for some weeks without any incidents of
greater moment than the occasional meeting with whaling…ships； and
more frequently with the black or right whale； so called in
contradistinction to the spermaceti。 These； however； were chiefly
found south of the twenty…fifth parallel。 On the sixteenth of
September； being in the vicinity of the Cape of Good Hope； the
schooner encountered her first gale of any violence since leaving
Liverpool。 In this neighborhood； but more frequently to the south and
east of the promontory （we were to the westward）； navigators have
often to contend with storms from the northward； which rage with
great fury。 They always bring with them a heavy sea； and one of their
most dangerous features is the instantaneous chopping round of the
wind； an occurrence almost certain to take place during the greatest
force of the gale。 A perfect hurricane will be blowing at one moment
from the northward or northeast； and in the next not a breath of wind
will be felt in that direction； while from the southwest it will come
out all at once with a violence almost inconceivable。 A bright spot
to the southward is the sure forerunner of the change； and vessels
are thus enabled to take the proper precautions。
It was about six in the morning when the blow came on with a
white squall； and； as usual； from the northward。 By eight it had
increased very much； and brought down upon us one of the most
tremendous seas I had then ever beheld。 Every thing had been made as
snug as possible； but the schooner laboured excessively； and gave
evidence of her bad qualities as a seaboat； pitching her forecastle
under at every plunge and with the greatest difficulty struggling up
from one wave before she was buried in another。 just before sunset
the bright spot for which we had been on the look…out made its
appearance in the southwest； and in an hour afterward we perceived
the little headsail we carried flapping listlessly against the mast。
In two minutes more； in spite of every preparation； we were hurled on
our beam…ends； as if by magic； and a perfect wilderness of foam made
a clear breach over us as we lay。 The blow from the southwest；
however； luckily proved to be nothing more than a squall； and we had
the good fortune to right the vessel without the loss of a spar。 A
heavy cross sea gave us great trouble for a few hours after this； but
toward morning we found ourselves in nearly as good condition as
before the gale。 Captain Guy considered that he had made an escape
little less than miraculous。
On the thirteenth of October we came in sight of Prince Edward's
Island； in latitude 46 degrees 53' S。； longitude 37 degrees 46' E。
Two days afterward we found ourselves near Possession Island； and
presently passed the islands of Crozet； in latitude 42 degrees 59'
S。； longitude 48 degrees E。 On the eighteenth we made Kerguelen's or
Desolation Island； in the Southern Indian Ocean； and came to anchor
in Christmas Harbour； having four fathoms of water。
This island； or rather group of islands； bears southeast from the
Cape of Good Hope； and is distant therefrom nearly eight hundred
leagues。 It was first discovered in 1772； by the Baron de Kergulen；
or Kerguelen； a Frenchman； who； thinking the land to form a portion
of an extensive southern continent carried home information to that
effect； which produced much excitement at the time。 The government；
taking the matter up； sent the baron back in the following year for
the purpose of giving his new discovery a critical examination； when
the mistake was discovered。 In 1777； Captain Cook fell in with the
same group； and gave to the principal one the name of Desolation
Island； a title which it certainly well deserves。 Upon approaching
the land； however； the navigator might be induced to suppose
otherwise； as the sides of most of the hills； from September to
March； are clothed with very brilliant verdure。 This deceitful
appearance is caused by a small plant resembling saxifrage； which is
abundant； growing in large patches on a species of crumbling moss。
Besides this plant there is scarcely a sign of vegetation on the
island； if we except some coarse rank grass near the harbor； some
lichen； and a shrub which bears resemblance to a cabbage shooting
into seed； and which has a bitter and acrid taste。
The face of the country is hilly； although none of the hills can
be called lofty。 Their tops are perpetually covered with snow。 There
are several harbors； of which Christmas Harbour is the most
convenient。 It is the first to be met with on the northeast side of
the island after passing Cape Francois； which forms the northern
shore； and； by its peculiar shape； serves to distinguish the harbour。
Its projecting point terminates in a high rock； through which is a
large hole； forming a natural arch。 The entrance is in latitude 48
degrees 40' S。； longitude 69 degrees 6' E。 Passing in here； good
anchorage may be found under the shelter of several small islands；
which form a sufficient protection from all easterly winds。
Proceeding on eastwardly from this anchorage you come to Wasp Bay； at
the head of the harbour。 This is a small basin； completely
landlocked； into which you can go with four fathoms； and find
anchorage in from ten to three； hard clay bottom。 A ship might lie
here with her best bower ahead all the year round without risk。 To
the westward； at the head of Wasp Bay； is a small stream of excellent
water； easily procured。
Some seal of the fur and hair species are still to be found on
Kerguelen's Island； and sea elephants abound。 The feathered tribes
are discovered in great numbers。 Penguins are very plenty； and of
these there are four different kinds。 The royal penguin； so called
from its size and beautiful plumage； is the largest。 The upper part
of the body is usually gray； sometimes of a lilac tint； the under
portion of the purest white imaginable。 The head is of a glossy and
most brilliant black； the feet also。 The chief beauty of plumage；
however； consists in two broad stripes of a gold color； which pass
along from the head to the breast。 T