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however； consists in two broad stripes of a gold color； which pass
along from the head to the breast。 The bill is long； and either pink
or bright scarlet。 These birds walk erect； with a stately carriage。
They carry their heads high with their wings drooping like two arms；
and； as their tails project from their body in a line with the legs；
the resemblance to a human figure is very striking； and would be apt
to deceive the spectator at a casual glance or in the gloom of the
evening。 The royal penguins which we met with on Kerguelen's Land
were rather larger than a goose。 The other kinds are the macaroni；
the jackass； and the rookery penguin。 These are much smaller； less
beautiful in plumage； and different in other respects。
Besides the penguin many other birds are here to be found； among
which may be mentioned sea…hens； blue peterels； teal； ducks； Port
Egmont hens； shags； Cape pigeons； the nelly； sea swallows； terns； sea
gulls； Mother Carey's chickens； Mother Carey's geese； or the great
peterel； and； lastly； the albatross。
The great peterel is as large as the common albatross； and is
carnivorous。 It is frequently called the break…bones； or osprey
peterel。 They are not at all shy； and； when properly cooked； are
palatable food。 In flying they sometimes sail very close to the
surface of the water； with the wings expanded； without appearing to
move them in the least degree； or make any exertion with them
whatever。
The albatross is one of the largest and fiercest of the South Sea
birds。 It is of the gull species； and takes its prey on the wing；
never coming on land except for the purpose of breeding。 Between this
bird and the penguin the most singular friendship exists。 Their nests
are constructed with great uniformity upon a plan concerted between
the two species… that of the albatross being placed in the centre of
a little square formed by the nests of four penguins。 Navigators have
agreed in calling an assemblage of such encampments a rookery。 These
rookeries have been often described； but as my readers may not all
have seen these descriptions； and as I shall have occasion hereafter
to speak of the penguin and albatross； it will not be amiss to say
something here of their mode of building and living。
When the season for incubation arrives； the birds assemble in vast
numbers； and for some days appear to be deliberating upon the proper
course to be pursued。 At length they proceed to action。 A level piece
of ground is selected； of suitable extent； usually comprising three
or four acres； and situated as near the sea as possible； being still
beyond its reach。 The spot is chosen with reference to its evenness
of surface； and that is preferred which is the least encumbered with
stones。 This matter being arranged； the birds proceed； with one
accord； and actuated apparently by one mind； to trace out； with
mathematical accuracy； either a square or other parallelogram； as may
best suit the nature of the ground； and of just sufficient size to
accommodate easily all the birds assembled； and no more… in this
particular seeming determined upon preventing the access of future
stragglers who have not participated in the labor of the encampment。
One side of the place thus marked out runs parallel with the water's
edge； and is left open for ingress or egress。
Having defined the limits of the rookery； the colony now begin to
clear it of every species of rubbish； picking up stone by stone； and
carrying them outside of the lines； and close by them； so as to form
a wall on the three inland sides。 Just within this wall a perfectly
level and smooth walk is formed； from six to eight feet wide； and
extending around the encampment… thus serving the purpose of a
general promenade。
The next process is to partition out the whole area into small
squares exactly equal in size。 This is done by forming narrow paths；
very smooth； and crossing each other at right angles throughout the
entire extent of the rookery。 At each intersection of these paths the
nest of an albatross is constructed； and a penguin's nest in the
centre of each square… thus every penguin is surrounded by four
albatrosses； and each albatross by a like number of penguins。 The
penguin's nest consists of a hole in the earth； very shallow； being
only just of sufficient depth to keep her single egg from rolling。
The albatross is somewhat less simple in her arrangements； erecting a
hillock about a foot high and two in diameter。 This is made of earth；
seaweed； and shells。 On its summit she builds her nest。
The birds take especial care never to leave their nests
unoccupied for an instant during the period of incubation； or；
indeed； until the young progeny are sufficiently strong to take care
of themselves。 While the male is absent at sea in search of food； the
female remains on duty； and it is only upon the return of her partner
that she ventures abroad。 The eggs are never left uncovered at all
while one bird leaves the nest the other nestling in by its side。
This precaution is rendered necessary by the thieving propensities
prevalent in the rookery； the inhabitants making no scruple to
purloin each other's eggs at every good opportunity。
Although there are some rookeries in which the penguin and
albatross are the sole population； yet in most of them a variety of
oceanic birds are to be met with； enjoying all the privileges of
citizenship； and scattering their nests here and there； wherever they
can find room； never interfering； however； with the stations of the
larger species。 The appearance of such encampments； when seen from a
distance； is exceedingly singular。 The whole atmosphere just above
the settlement is darkened with the immense number of the albatross
（mingled with the smaller tribes） which are continually hovering over
it； either going to the ocean or returning home。 At the same time a
crowd of penguins are to be observed； some passing to and fro in the
narrow alleys； and some marching with the military strut so peculiar
to them； around the general promenade ground which encircles the
rookery。 In short； survey it as we will； nothing can be more
astonishing than the spirit of reflection evinced by these feathered
beings； and nothing surely can be better calculated to elicit
reflection in every well…regulated human intellect。
On the morning after our arrival in Christmas Harbour the chief
mate； Mr。 Patterson； took the boats； and （although it was somewhat
early in the season） went in search of seal； leaving the captain and
a young relation of his on a point of barren land to the westward；
they having some business； whose nature I could not ascertain； to
transact in the interior of the island。 Captain Guy took with him a
bottle； in which was a sealed letter； and made his way from the point
on which he was set on shore toward one of the highest peaks in the
place。 It is probable that his design was to leave the letter on that
height for some vessel which he expected to come after him。 As soon
as we lost sight of him we proceeded （Peters and myself being in the
mate's boat） on our cruise around the coast； looking for seal。 In
this business we were occupied about three weeks； examining with
great care every nook and corner； not only of Kerguelen's Land； but
of the several small islands in the vicinity。 Our labours； however；
were not crowned with any important success。 We saw a great many fur
seal； but they were exceedingly shy； and with the greatest exertions；
we could only procure three hundred and fifty skins in all。 Sea
elephants were abundant； especially on the western coast of the
mainland； but of these we killed only twenty； and this with great
difficulty。 On the smaller islands we discovered a good many of the
hair seal； but did not molest them。 We returned to the schooner： on
the eleventh； where we found Captain Guy and his nephew； who gave a
very bad account of the interior； representing it as one of the most
dreary and utterly barren countries in the world。 They had remained
two nights on the island； owing to some misunderstanding； on the part
of the second mate； in regard to the sending a jollyboat from the
schooner to take them off。
~~~ End of Text of Chapter 14 ~~~
CHAPTER 15
ON the twelfth we made sail from Christmas Harbour retracing our
way to the westward； and leaving Marion's Island； one of Crozet's
group； on the larboard。 We afterward passed Prince Edward's Island；
leaving it also on our left； then； steering more to the northward；
made； in fifteen days； the islands of Tristan d'Acunha； in latitude
37 degrees 8' S； longitude 12 degrees 8' W。
This group； now so well known； and which consists of three
circular islands； was first discovered by the Portuguese； and was
visited afterward by the Dutch in 1643； and by the French in 1767。
The three islands together form a triangle； and are distant from each
other about ten miles； there being fine open passages between。 The
land in all of them is very high； especially in Tristan d'Acunha；
properly so called。 This is the largest of the group； being fifteen
miles in circumference； and so elevated that it can be seen in clear
weather at the dist