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wear a patch； or two extra seams only； over the knee？ Most behave
as if they believed that their prospects for life would be ruined if
they should do it。 It would be easier for them to hobble to town
with a broken leg than with a broken pantaloon。 Often if an
accident happens to a gentleman's legs； they can be mended； but if a
similar accident happens to the legs of his pantaloons； there is no
help for it； for he considers； not what is truly respectable； but
what is respected。 We know but few men； a great many coats and
breeches。 Dress a scarecrow in your last shift； you standing
shiftless by； who would not soonest salute the scarecrow？ Passing a
cornfield the other day； close by a hat and coat on a stake； I
recognized the owner of the farm。 He was only a little more
weather…beaten than when I saw him last。 I have heard of a dog that
barked at every stranger who approached his master's premises with
clothes on； but was easily quieted by a naked thief。 It is an
interesting question how far men would retain their relative rank if
they were divested of their clothes。 Could you； in such a case；
tell surely of any company of civilized men which belonged to the
most respected class？ When Madam Pfeiffer； in her adventurous
travels round the world； from east to west； had got so near home as
Asiatic Russia； she says that she felt the necessity of wearing
other than a travelling dress； when she went to meet the
authorities； for she 〃was now in a civilized country； where 。。。
people are judged of by their clothes。〃 Even in our democratic New
England towns the accidental possession of wealth； and its
manifestation in dress and equipage alone； obtain for the possessor
almost universal respect。 But they yield such respect； numerous as
they are； are so far heathen； and need to have a missionary sent to
them。 Beside； clothes introduced sewing； a kind of work which you
may call endless； a woman's dress； at least； is never done。
A man who has at length found something to do will not need to
get a new suit to do it in； for him the old will do； that has lain
dusty in the garret for an indeterminate period。 Old shoes will
serve a hero longer than they have served his valet if a hero
ever has a valet bare feet are older than shoes； and he can make
them do。 Only they who go to soires and legislative balls must
have new coats； coats to change as often as the man changes in them。
But if my jacket and trousers； my hat and shoes； are fit to worship
God in； they will do； will they not？ Who ever saw his old clothes
his old coat； actually worn out； resolved into its primitive
elements； so that it was not a deed of charity to bestow it on some
poor boy； by him perchance to be bestowed on some poorer still； or
shall we say richer； who could do with less？ I say； beware of all
enterprises that require new clothes； and not rather a new wearer of
clothes。 If there is not a new man； how can the new clothes be made
to fit？ If you have any enterprise before you； try it in your old
clothes。 All men want； not something to do with； but something to
do； or rather something to be。 Perhaps we should never procure a
new suit； however ragged or dirty the old； until we have so
conducted； so enterprised or sailed in some way； that we feel like
new men in the old； and that to retain it would be like keeping new
wine in old bottles。 Our moulting season； like that of the fowls；
must be a crisis in our lives。 The loon retires to solitary ponds
to spend it。 Thus also the snake casts its slough； and the
caterpillar its wormy coat； by an internal industry and expansion；
for clothes are but our outmost cuticle and mortal coil。 Otherwise
we shall be found sailing under false colors； and be inevitably
cashiered at last by our own opinion； as well as that of mankind。
We don garment after garment； as if we grew like exogenous
plants by addition without。 Our outside and often thin and fanciful
clothes are our epidermis； or false skin； which partakes not of our
life； and may be stripped off here and there without fatal injury；
our thicker garments； constantly worn； are our cellular integument；
or cortex； but our shirts are our liber； or true bark； which cannot
be removed without girdling and so destroying the man。 I believe
that all races at some seasons wear something equivalent to the
shirt。 It is desirable that a man be clad so simply that he can lay
his hands on himself in the dark； and that he live in all respects
so compactly and preparedly that； if an enemy take the town； he can；
like the old philosopher； walk out the gate empty…handed without
anxiety。 While one thick garment is； for most purposes； as good as
three thin ones； and cheap clothing can be obtained at prices really
to suit customers； while a thick coat can be bought for five
dollars； which will last as many years； thick pantaloons for two
dollars； cowhide boots for a dollar and a half a pair； a summer hat
for a quarter of a dollar； and a winter cap for sixty…two and a half
cents； or a better be made at home at a nominal cost； where is he so
poor that； clad in such a suit； of his own earning； there will not
be found wise men to do him reverence？
When I ask for a garment of a particular form； my tailoress
tells me gravely； 〃They do not make them so now；〃 not emphasizing
the 〃They〃 at all； as if she quoted an authority as impersonal as
the Fates； and I find it difficult to get made what I want； simply
because she cannot believe that I mean what I say； that I am so
rash。 When I hear this oracular sentence； I am for a moment
absorbed in thought； emphasizing to myself each word separately that
I may come at the meaning of it； that I may find out by what degree
of consanguinity They are related to me； and what authority they
may have in an affair which affects me so nearly； and； finally； I am
inclined to answer her with equal mystery； and without any more
emphasis of the 〃they〃 〃It is true； they did not make them so
recently； but they do now。〃 Of what use this measuring of me if she
does not measure my character； but only the breadth of my shoulders；
as it were a peg to bang the coat on？ We worship not the Graces；
nor the Parcae； but Fashion。 She spins and weaves and cuts with
full authority。 The head monkey at Paris puts on a traveller's cap；
and all the monkeys in America do the same。 I sometimes despair of
getting anything quite simple and honest done in this world by the
help of men。 They would have to be passed through a powerful press
first； to squeeze their old notions out of them； so that they would
not soon get upon their legs again； and then there would be some one
in the company with a maggot in his head； hatched from an egg
deposited there nobody knows when； for not even fire kills these
things； and you would have lost your labor。 Nevertheless； we will
not forget that some Egyptian wheat was handed down to us by a
mummy。
On the whole； I think that it cannot be maintained that dressing
has in this or any country risen to the dignity of an art。 At
present men make shift to wear what they can get。 Like shipwrecked
sailors； they put on what they can find on the beach； and at a
little distance； whether of space or time； laugh at each other's
masquerade。 Every generation laughs at the old fashions； but
follows religiously the new。 We are amused at beholding the costume
of Henry VIII； or Queen Elizabeth； as much as if it was that of the
King and Queen of the Cannibal Islands。 All costume off a man is
pitiful or grotesque。 It is only the serious eye peering from and
the sincere life passed within it which restrain laughter and
consecrate the costume of any people。 Let Harlequin be taken with a
fit of the colic and his trappings will have to serve that mood too。
When the soldier is hit by a cannonball； rags are as becoming as
purple。
The childish and savage taste of men and women for new patterns
keeps how many shaking and squinting through kaleidoscopes that they
may discover the particular figure which this generation requires
today。 The manufacturers have learned that this taste is merely
whimsical。 Of two patterns which differ only by a few threads more
or less of a particular color； the one will be sold readily； the
other lie on the shelf； though it frequently happens that after the
lapse of a season the latter becomes the most fashionable。
Comparatively； tattooing is not the hideous custom which it is
called。 It is not barbarous merely because the printing is
skin…deep and unalterable。
I cannot believe that our factory system is the best mode by
which men may get clothing。 The condition of the operatives is
becoming every day more like that of the English； and it cannot be
wondered at； since； as far as I have heard or observed； the
principal object is； not that mankind may be well and honestly clad；
but； unquestionably； that corporations may be enric