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THE ALHAMBRA
by Washington Irving
Preface to the Revised Edition。
Rough draughts of some of the following tales and essays were
actually written during a residence in the Alhambra； others were
subsequently added； founded on notes and observations made there。 Care
was taken to maintain local coloring and verisimilitude； so that the
whole might present a faithful and living picture of that microcosm；
that singular little world into which I had been fortuitously
thrown； and about which the external world had a very imperfect
idea。 It was my endeavor scrupulously to depict its half Spanish； half
Oriental character； its mixture of the heroic； the poetic； and the
grotesque； to revive the traces of grace and beauty fast fading from
its walls； to record the regal and chivalrous traditions concerning
those who once trod its courts； and the whimsical and superstitious
legends of the motley race now burrowing among its ruins。
The papers thus roughly sketched out lay for three or four years
in my portfolio； until I found myself in London； in 1832； on the eve
of returning to the United States。 I then endeavored to arrange them
for the press； but the preparations for departure did not allow
sufficient leisure。 Several were thrown aside as incomplete； the
rest were put together somewhat hastily and in rather a crude and
chaotic manner。
In the present edition I have revised and re…arranged the whole
work； enlarged some parts； and added others； including the papers
originally omitted； and have thus endeavored to render it more
complete and more worthy of the indulgent reception with which it
has been favored。
W。 I。
Sunnyside； 1851。
The Journey。
IN THE spring of 1829； the author of this work； whom curiosity had
brought into Spain； made a rambling expedition from Seville to Granada
in company with a friend； a member of the Russian Embassy at Madrid。
Accident had thrown us together from distant regions of the globe； and
a similarity of taste led us to wander together among the romantic
mountains of Andalusia。 Should these pages meet his eye； wherever
thrown by the duties of his station； whether mingling in the pageantry
of courts； or meditating on the truer glories of nature； may they
recall the scenes of our adventurous companionship； and with them
the recollection of one； in whom neither time nor distance will
obliterate the remembrance of his gentleness and worth。
And here； before setting forth； let me indulge in a few previous
remarks on Spanish scenery and Spanish travelling。 Many are apt to
picture Spain to their imaginations as a soft southern region；
decked out with the luxuriant charms of voluptuous Italy。 On the
contrary； though there are exceptions in some of the maritime
provinces； yet； for the greater part； it is a stern； melancholy
country； with rugged mountains； and long sweeping plains； destitute of
trees； and indescribably silent and lonesome； partaking of the
savage and solitary character of Africa。 What adds to this silence and
loneliness； is the absence of singing birds； a natural consequence
of the want of groves and hedges。 The vulture and the eagle are seen
wheeling about the mountain…cliffs； and soaring over the plains； and
groups of shy bustards stalk about the heaths； but the myriads of
smaller birds； which animate the whole face of other countries； are
met with in but few provinces in Spain； and in those chiefly among the
orchards and gardens which surround the habitations of man。
In the interior provinces the traveller occasionally traverses great
tracts cultivated with grain as far as the eye can reach； waving at
times with verdure； at other times naked and sunburnt； but he looks
round in vain for the hand that has tilled the soil。 At length； he
perceives some village on a steep hill； or rugged crag； with
mouldering battlements and ruined watchtower； a strong…hold； in old
times； against civil war； or Moorish inroad； for the custom among
the peasantry of congregating together for mutual protection is
still kept up in most parts of Spain； in consequence of the maraudings
of roving freebooters。
But though a great part of Spain is deficient in the garniture of
groves and forests； and the softer charms of ornamental cultivation；
yet its scenery is noble in its severity； and in unison with the
attributes of its people； and I think that I better understand the
proud； hardy； frugal and abstemious Spaniard； his manly defiance of
hardships； and contempt of effeminate indulgences； since I have seen
the country he inhabits。
There is something too； in the sternly simple features of the
Spanish landscape； that impresses on the soul a feeling of
sublimity。 The immense plains of the Castiles and of La Mancha；
extending as far as the eye can reach； derive an interest from their
very nakedness and immensity； and possess； in some degree； the
solemn grandeur of the ocean。 In ranging over these boundless
wastes； the eye catches sight here and there of a straggling herd of
cattle attended by a lonely herdsman； motionless as a statue； with his
long slender pike tapering up like a lance into the air； or； beholds a
long train of mules slowly moving along the waste like a train of
camels in the desert； or； a single horseman； armed with blunderbuss
and stiletto； and prowling over the plain。 Thus the country； the
habits； the very looks of the people； have something of the Arabian
character。 The general insecurity of the country is evinced in the
universal use of weapons。 The herdsman in the field； the shepherd in
the plain； has his musket and his knife。 The wealthy villager rarely
ventures to the market…town without his trabuco； and； perhaps； a
servant on foot with a blunderbuss on his shoulder； and the most petty
journey is undertaken with the preparation of a warlike enterprise。
The dangers of the road produce also a mode of travelling；
resembling； on a diminutive scale； the caravans of the east。 The
arrieros； or carriers； congregate in convoys； and set off in large and
well…armed trains on appointed days； while additional travellers swell
their number； and contribute to their strength。 In this primitive
way is the commerce of the country carried on。 The muleteer is the
general medium of traffic； and the legitimate traverser of the land；
crossing the peninsula from the Pyrenees and the Asturias to the
Alpuxarras； the Serrania de Ronda； and even to the gates of Gibraltar。
He lives frugally and hardily： his alforjas of coarse cloth hold his
scanty stock of provisions； a leathern bottle； hanging at his
saddle…bow； contains wine or water； for a supply across barren
mountains and thirsty plains； a mule…cloth spread upon the ground is
his bed at night； and his pack…saddle his pillow。 His low； but
clean…limbed and sinewy form betokens strength； his complexion is dark
and sunburnt； his eye resolute； but quiet in its expression； except
when kindled by sudden emotion； his demeanor is frank； manly； and
courteous； and he never passes you without a grave salutation： 〃Dios
guarde a usted！〃 〃Va usted con Dios； Caballero！〃 （〃God guard you！〃
〃God be with you； Cavalier！〃）
As these men have often their whole fortune at stake upon the burden
of their mules； they have their weapons at hand； slung to their
saddles； and ready to be snatched out for desperate defence； but their
united numbers render them secure against petty bands of marauders；
and the solitary bandolero； armed to the teeth； and mounted on his
Andalusian steed； hovers about them； like a pirate about a merchant
convoy； without daring to assault。
The Spanish muleteer has an inexhaustible stock of songs and
ballads； with which to beguile his incessant wayfaring。 The airs are
rude and simple； consisting of but few inflections。 These he chants
forth with a loud voice； and long； drawling cadence； seated sideways
on his mule； who seems to listen with infinite gravity； and to keep
time； with his paces； to the tune。 The couplets thus chanted； are
often old traditional romances about the Moors； or some legend of a
saint； or some love…ditty； or； what is still more frequent； some
ballad about a bold contrabandista； or hardy bandolero； for the
smuggler and the robber are poetical heroes among the common people of
Spain。 Often； the song of the muleteer is composed at the instant； and
relates to some local scene； or some incident of the journey。 This
talent of singing and improvising is frequent in Spain； and is said to
have been inherited from the Moors。 There is something wildly pleasing
in listening to these ditties among the rude and lonely scenes they
illustrate； accompanied； as they are； by the occasional jingle of
the mule…bell。
It has a most picturesque effect also to meet a trai