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The Uncommercial Traveller
by Charles Dickens
CHAPTER I … HIS GENERAL LINE OF BUSINESS
Allow me to introduce myself … first negatively。
No landlord is my friend and brother； no chambermaid loves me； no
waiter worships me； no boots admires and envies me。 No round of
beef or tongue or ham is expressly cooked for me； no pigeon…pie is
especially made for me； no hotel…advertisement is personally
addressed to me； no hotel…room tapestried with great…coats and
railway wrappers is set apart for me； no house of public
entertainment in the United Kingdom greatly cares for my opinion of
its brandy or sherry。 When I go upon my journeys； I am not usually
rated at a low figure in the bill； when I come home from my
journeys； I never get any commission。 I know nothing about prices；
and should have no idea； if I were put to it； how to wheedle a man
into ordering something he doesn't want。 As a town traveller； I am
never to be seen driving a vehicle externally like a young and
volatile pianoforte van； and internally like an oven in which a
number of flat boxes are baking in layers。 As a country traveller；
I am rarely to be found in a gig； and am never to be encountered by
a pleasure train； waiting on the platform of a branch station；
quite a Druid in the midst of a light Stonehenge of samples。
And yet … proceeding now； to introduce myself positively … I am
both a town traveller and a country traveller； and am always on the
road。 Figuratively speaking； I travel for the great house of Human
Interest Brothers； and have rather a large connection in the fancy
goods way。 Literally speaking； I am always wandering here and
there from my rooms in Covent…garden； London … now about the city
streets： now； about the country by…roads … seeing many little
things； and some great things； which； because they interest me； I
think may interest others。
These are my chief credentials as the Uncommercial Traveller。
CHAPTER II … THE SHIPWRECK
Never had I seen a year going out； or going on； under quieter
circumstances。 Eighteen hundred and fifty…nine had but another day
to live； and truly its end was Peace on that sea…shore that
morning。
So settled and orderly was everything seaward； in the bright light
of the sun and under the transparent shadows of the clouds； that it
was hard to imagine the bay otherwise； for years past or to come；
than it was that very day。 The Tug…steamer lying a little off the
shore； the Lighter lying still nearer to the shore； the boat
alongside the Lighter； the regularly…turning windlass aboard the
Lighter； the methodical figures at work； all slowly and regularly
heaving up and down with the breathing of the sea； all seemed as
much a part of the nature of the place as the tide itself。 The
tide was on the flow； and had been for some two hours and a half；
there was a slight obstruction in the sea within a few yards of my
feet： as if the stump of a tree； with earth enough about it to
keep it from lying horizontally on the water； had slipped a little
from the land … and as I stood upon the beach and observed it
dimpling the light swell that was coming in； I cast a stone over
it。
So orderly； so quiet； so regular … the rising and falling of the
Tug…steamer； the Lighter； and the boat … the turning of the
windlass … the coming in of the tide … that I myself seemed； to my
own thinking； anything but new to the spot。 Yet； I had never seen
it in my life； a minute before； and had traversed two hundred miles
to get at it。 That very morning I had come bowling down； and
struggling up； hill…country roads； looking back at snowy summits；
meeting courteous peasants well to do； driving fat pigs and cattle
to market： noting the neat and thrifty dwellings； with their
unusual quantity of clean white linen； drying on the bushes； having
windy weather suggested by every cotter's little rick； with its
thatch straw…ridged and extra straw…ridged into overlapping
compartments like the back of a rhinoceros。 Had I not given a lift
of fourteen miles to the Coast…guardsman （kit and all）； who was
coming to his spell of duty there； and had we not just now parted
company？ So it was； but the journey seemed to glide down into the
placid sea； with other chafe and trouble； and for the moment
nothing was so calmly and monotonously real under the sunlight as
the gentle rising and falling of the water with its freight； the
regular turning of the windlass aboard the Lighter； and the slight
obstruction so very near my feet。
O reader； haply turning this page by the fireside at Home； and
hearing the night wind rumble in the chimney； that slight
obstruction was the uppermost fragment of the Wreck of the Royal
Charter； Australian trader and passenger ship； Homeward bound； that
struck here on the terrible morning of the twenty…sixth of this
October； broke into three parts； went down with her treasure of at
least five hundred human lives； and has never stirred since！
From which point； or from which； she drove ashore； stern foremost；
on which side； or on which； she passed the little Island in the
bay； for ages henceforth to be aground certain yards outside her；
these are rendered bootless questions by the darkness of that night
and the darkness of death。 Here she went down。
Even as I stood on the beach with the words 'Here she went down！'
in my ears； a diver in his grotesque dress； dipped heavily over the
side of the boat alongside the Lighter； and dropped to the bottom。
On the shore by the water's edge； was a rough tent； made of
fragments of wreck； where other divers and workmen sheltered
themselves； and where they had kept Christmas…day with rum and
roast beef； to the destruction of their frail chimney。 Cast up
among the stones and boulders of the beach； were great spars of the
lost vessel； and masses of iron twisted by the fury of the sea into
the strangest forms。 The timber was already bleached and iron
rusted； and even these objects did no violence to the prevailing
air the whole scene wore； of having been exactly the same for years
and years。
Yet； only two short months had gone； since a man； living on the
nearest hill…top overlooking the sea； being blown out of bed at
about daybreak by the wind that had begun to strip his roof off；
and getting upon a ladder with his nearest neighbour to construct
some temporary device for keeping his house over his head； saw from
the ladder's elevation as he looked down by chance towards the
shore； some dark troubled object close in with the land。 And he
and the other； descending to the beach； and finding the sea
mercilessly beating over a great broken ship； had clambered up the
stony ways； like staircases without stairs； on which the wild
village hangs in little clusters； as fruit hangs on boughs； and had
given the alarm。 And so； over the hill…slopes； and past the
waterfall； and down the gullies where the land drains off into the
ocean； the scattered quarrymen and fishermen inhabiting that part
of Wales had come running to the dismal sight … their clergyman
among them。 And as they stood in the leaden morning； stricken with
pity； leaning hard against the wind； their breath and vision often
failing as the sleet and spray rushed at them from the ever forming
and dissolving mountains of sea； and as the wool which was a part
of the vessel's cargo blew in with the salt foam and remained upon
the land when the foam melted； they saw the ship's life…boat put
off from one of the heaps of wreck； and first； there were three men
in her； and in a moment she capsized； and there were but two； and
again； she was struck by a vast mass of water； and there was but
one； and again； she was thrown bottom upward； and that one； with
his arm struck through the broken planks and waving as if for the
help that could never reach him； went down into the deep。
It was the clergyman himself from whom I heard this； while I stood
on the shore； looking in his kind wholesome face as it turned to
the spot where the boat had been。 The divers were down then； and
busy。 They were 'lifting' to…day the gold found yesterday … some
five…and…twenty thousand pounds。 Of three hundred and fifty
thousand pounds' worth of gold； three hundred thousand pounds'
worth； in round numbers； was at that time recovered。 The great
bulk of the remainder was surely and steadily coming up。 Some loss
of sovereigns there would be； of course； indeed； at first
sovereigns had drifted in with the sand； and been scattered far and
wide over the beach； like sea…shells； but most other golden
treasure would be found。 As it was brought up； it went aboard the
Tug…steamer； where good account was taken of it。 So tremendous had
the force of the sea been when it broke the ship； that it had
beaten one great ingot of gold； deep into a strong and heavy piece
of her solid iron…work： in which； also； several loose sover